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ripper911
The other day while driving around the car suddenly loses power and wouldn't idle, I suspected the points. I pull off on the side of the road, the coil had come loose and was sitting on top of the engine. I put the coil back, adjust the points using a peice of card stock from some type of product packaging and got it to the house, but it still wouldn't idle.
The next day I re-adjust the points using a feeler gauge and set the timing statically. It did fine on the way to work until I pulled off of the interstate. Now it runs alright until you get to around 3000-3500rpm then it stumbles and will not make any power. I can drive it at around 3000rpm in all gears and it does alright, what could the problem be?
Also, when this happens the tachometer moves wildly.

Carbureted 1911, 009 dist, black coil
TheCabinetmaker
If the negative side of the coil contacts the engine tin it can fry the condensor. I've seen a coil fall down in the fan and kill the coil and condensor and burn the points too.
underthetire
Need new points and probably should replace the condenser. Tach swinging=ignition. Use a dwell meter to properly set point gap. Also check the little braided ground strap from the point plate to the body.
DRPHIL914
QUOTE(ripper911 @ Feb 9 2012, 02:49 PM) *

The other day while driving around the car suddenly loses power and wouldn't idle, I suspected the points. I pull off on the side of the road, the coil had come loose and was sitting on top of the engine. I put the coil back, adjust the points using a peice of card stock from some type of product packaging and got it to the house, but it still wouldn't idle.
The next day I re-adjust the points using a feeler gauge and set the timing statically. It did fine on the way to work until I pulled off of the interstate. Now it runs alright until you get to around 3000-3500rpm then it stumbles and will not make any power. I can drive it at around 3000rpm in all gears and it does alright, what could the problem be?
Also, when this happens the tachometer moves wildly.

Carbureted 1911, 009 dist, black coil


had a very similar situation recently, the tach was jumping at higher RPM @3500-4000, - it was 2 issues, but the main was the wire was loose in the connector, and i cut the wire, put a new connector on each of them, crimping them really good, and that problem was solved- i THOUGHT i had a good connection, but it was not. then i also had an issue with the coil, changed it out and ive been good for 2 weeks. - recheck each wire going to a from the coil, also the grounds for FI if it is FI. .

good luck.

Phil

- i have hotspark not points, but i rechecked those as well. but what "under the tire" says - check both of those as well. .
ripper911
Thanks all, I wasn't able to get a condensor at the flaps sunday, I'll go buy one and try that first.
TheCabinetmaker
Its carbed Phillp.
TheCabinetmaker
That flaps condensor will get you by for a while, but get a Bosch soon.
ripper911
QUOTE(vsg914 @ Feb 9 2012, 03:05 PM) *

That flaps condensor will get you by for a while, but get a Bosch soon.

The import auto parts store was closed sunday, they're open today. smile.gif
TheCabinetmaker
Points, condensor, and tools to change them should always be in the car.
DRPHIL914
QUOTE(vsg914 @ Feb 9 2012, 03:04 PM) *

Its carbed Phillp.



o.k., - I've had good results with the Hotspark points and condenser replacement, - no more setting dwell or points gap- i know, kind of lazy but it takes that out of the equation.

but i had to go back to a bosch coil, i will never use anything else-

pw
ripper911
I just called impart, they don't have the parts but they will have them for me by 8:30am tomorrow. I don't feel like driving to AA right now.
I'll change out the points and condensor in the morning and report back.
ripper911
After replacing the points and condensor and setting everything right twice it is running fine.
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