My steering wheel started to get play about 6 months ago. It started progressively getting worse. I have about 1.5 inches of play. But the worse part was yesterday while turning the steering wheel without the car moving I was getting horrible crunching sounds in the steering.
Okay, I removed the cover and I don't like what I see!
It is definitely the steering coupler. Lots of slop and one bolt has completely come loose! Not even threaded in! See picture! I was driving with only bolt intact! Wow, God takes care of the ignorant and stupid! No wonder it was making horrible sounds!
Okay experts, how do I replace this! The bolts thread from the bottom! How do I get to those? I hate it when a plan does not come together!
Should I use Threadlock when putting back together?
I also found the following coupler from Tangerine which I ordered: http://www.tangerineracing.com/steeringupgrades.htm
Any help will be appreciated.
Full Version: Steering making horrible sounds
that's just a shaft. go below, remove the cover - 4bolts. 1.5" slop as you rotate the wheel? or the shaft is loose?
To take it all apart you need to loosen the U joint under your dash and then drop the entire rack down. You might be able to get 2 bolts from underneath but I never tried it.
Check here for similer issues: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...&hl=coupler
Ooops - saw thats you too.
Check here for similer issues: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...&hl=coupler
Ooops - saw thats you too.
Thanks for responding.
Wholly crap...
I got your PM. Guess what I am doing?
Thanks a bunch.
I got your PM. Guess what I am doing?
Thanks a bunch.
Bend the tabs that lock the 2 upper bolts and remove bolts. That will free it from the rack. You'll then have to remove the allen bolts that hold in the bearing and try and pivot the shaft to get to the bottom shaft to coupler bolts. You might have to loosen the U joint under your dash to get enough play to swing it. Mark the joint and shaft so your steering wheel will still be centered.
Thanks for responding. I will wait until I have new the coupler and then I will try it. I really appreciate your help.
Bend the tabs that lock the 2 upper bolts and remove bolts. That will free it from the rack. You'll then have to remove the allen bolts that hold in the bearing and try and pivot the shaft to get to the bottom shaft to coupler bolts. You might have to loosen the U joint under your dash to get enough play to swing it. Mark the joint and shaft so your steering wheel will still be centered.
QUOTE(jmill @ Feb 18 2012, 03:49 PM) 
Bend the tabs that lock the 2 upper bolts and remove bolts. That will free it from the rack. You'll then have to remove the allen bolts that hold in the bearing and try and pivot the shaft to get to the bottom shaft to coupler bolts. You might have to loosen the U joint under your dash to get enough play to swing it. Mark the joint and shaft so your steering wheel will still be centered.
QUOTE(jmill @ Feb 18 2012, 12:49 PM)
Bend the tabs that lock the 2 upper bolts and remove bolts. That will free it from the rack. You'll then have to remove the allen bolts that hold in the bearing and try and pivot the shaft to get to the bottom shaft to coupler bolts. You might have to loosen the U joint under your dash to get enough play to swing it. Mark the joint and shaft so your steering wheel will still be centered.
Dude, did you edit your first post or what? 
If the problem is "inside the stearing rack itself", please buy a good used one from one of our vendors here or have someone rebuild it for you who's done so successfully before.
I have 6 used units, all in differing conditions. Spacing internally is critical if rebuilt, as well as proper bearings.
Good luck.
I have 6 used units, all in differing conditions. Spacing internally is critical if rebuilt, as well as proper bearings.
Good luck.
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