I'm considering a gun to do some work on whitey (engine bay, trunks, front valence) and eventually spray bluecar when he's done. If all that turns out well, then possibly painting whitey.

I'm seeing these brand names and really know nothing about their quality or reputations. Price seems to be the only factor I can easily find.

DeVilbiss
Binks
Sata
AccuSpray
Sharpe
Anest Iwata
Walcom
Sagola

These are all available at Spray Gun Depot

Lowe's has an Ingersoll-Rand gun for $99
Lowe's I-R paint gun

DeVilbiss seems to be a popular brand at the autobodystore.com forum.

The new DiVilbis stuff seems nice, I don't like gravity feed, and I don't like the things they do with my acryl/lacquer metallics.

I have 5 different Binks guns, they are old, and kick ass, from a teeny tiny lil half oz touch up gun, to a 1.5 quart tanked behemouth that lets you spray for a month at a time.

I have up to 90lbs to push it all though, not that you'd ever need it. A common high pressure application for me would be around 40-45lbs, and I am shooting short surfaces. I feel like the gravity feed stuff requires too much attention, and it's not comfortable to balance.

Just a couple thoughts.


M

I've used DeVilbiss (HVHP), AccuSpray and Sata (HVLP). Each gun had its own foibles, so its all just a matter of practice / experience with a specific model. What kind of paint you use also affects gun performance.

I like gravity feed guns because the jar is on top, which keeps me from bouncing the jar into the workpieces when they are laid flat -- doors, decklids, etc.

I'm a decent hand at spraying, but what I've learned (the hard way) is there is no substitute for body prep and lots of sand paper. Don't expect perfect results the first, second or third time out. I still don't, but maybe that's because I suck more at painting more than I'm lead to believe.

Brandon (Da Painter) uses Sata and Walcom guns.

Devilbiss, Binks and SATA are all great guns. Right now SATA makes the best guns period but they are very expensive. I have a devilbiss Primer gun and have used other High end Devilbiss finish guns with great success. From what I understand Gravity feed HVLP doesn't tend to do as good with metallics as standard high pressure siphon feed so I don't know what type I am going to buy. It is really nice to shoot all of the material out of the gun as opposed to have to pour it out.

what about this?



FLG-653G-Master FinishLine 3 HVLP Gravity Feed Spray Gun with 1.3, 1.5, 1.8, and 2.2mm Fluid Tips, Regulator & Gauge, and Storage/Carrying Case

The included 1.3, 1.5, 1.8, and 2.2mm Fluid Tips will allow you to spray the full spectrum of coatings!

The 1.3mm Fluid Tip is Ideal for the Optimal Atomization of
Basecoats/Clearcoats and other Light Viscosity Materials.
The 1.5mm Fluid Tip works for Topcoats/Basecoats/Clearcoats and other
Light to Medium Viscosity Materials. The 1.8mm Fluid Tip is excellent for Primers, Oil Base, Latex, and other Meduim to Heavy Viscosity Coatings. The 2.2mm Fluid Tip will enable you to spray thicker materials such as Extreme High Build or Polyester Primers, and well as Thick Enamels, Latex Paints, and Gel Coats.

The new guns are designed to use the newer paints....old style paints won't work...

The new paints and guns are formulated for smog laws. Less VOCs get released for ozone precursors. If you use the old school lacquers and such...gotta use the equipment that originally applied it.

The High Volume, Low Pressure guns won't atomize the old stuff right and it looks like spit coming out the tip.

I don't see why you would want to shoot "the old stuff". Car paint has improved greatly in the last 30 years.

The traditional Lead Sled guys like the old lacquers and if they can still get them...will use it. MOST paint manufacturers stopped selling the stuff.

You can still get it from specialist paint companies in containers of less than a gallon and for "hobbyist" use only. There is an exemption that allows for sale in small containers and non refillable rattle cans.

Oopsie, make that in containers less than a LITER.....meaning quarts are OK....3.785L=gal

It is possible to use "new style paints" with siphon guns. I have found that about double the amount of reducer recommended for HVLP guns is about right for the siphon gun. I have not had any problems to date shooting this way. I have also experimented with a pressure pot with some success, but it frankly needs more experimentation. Perhaps if I buy a HVLP gun, I'll like it. I just don't know, as I've never used one.

Andy

Sean,
When/if I get a new gun that's exactly what I'd get!

My older syphon fed DeVilbiss has been through h@ll and works great.
I only use it for sealer, base and top coat application.

Not a bad price as gun go these days!

Dave

the one I think I'm getting is the DeVilbiss JGA kit, with 1.3, 1.4, regulator and case.
Also, thinking I should get this filter:

Sean:

What kind of compressor do you have?

6hp 36gal

Sounds like you have enough air. I have a 30 gallon and it hardly ever came on.

Check this site out for the best prices and to compare all the Devilbiss guns...

http://www.spraygunworld.com/products/DeVi...lbiss/index.htm

spraygundepot.com sells on ebay for less.

I know it's not the best, the GTi looked like what I wanted, but right now I can't rationalize the extra $.

I painted this car with the DeVilbiss Finishline 3. It had some orange peel, but I am only amateur and this is the first time I painted a car so I wouldn't blame the gun. I colorsanded the orange peel and the paint looks pretty good. See the links for the process. I bought the gun from spraygunworld also. I didn't buy the kit, but I got all 3 sets of tips. I used one set for the 2K primer, another set for the topcoat which was single stage. At some point the quality of your gun will exceed your experience and skill. The Finishline 3 seems like a really a good gun to me.


Before Primer
After Primer
After Wet Sand
After Paint 1
After Paint 2
After Paint 3

DONE!

I just wanted to add.....

I used a 4hp 60 gallon compressor. At least thats what I think it is. It's the upright Husky(Campbell-Hausfeld) from Home Depot. Runs on 220v, meets the air requirements of the HVLP gun.


The dryer is one place I did skimp a little. I used a cheap Campbell-Hausfeld seperator/filter after my pressure regulator. Then at the gun, I used a "last chance" dryer/filter. I also made a 25' cooling loop between my compressor and regulator. Again, I did this quick and dirty with a 25' air hose. I ran it straight up out of the compressor about 7'. Then serpintined it down to waist level. The serpertines, should help to knock the water out of the air. Then at the regulator, I ran the serpintine hose perpindicular into a piece of copper. I put the regulator and the filter above this junction and a ball valve below the junction. The ball valve was to drain the system. Theory being, the air would take the high road, and any water would take the low road. This car was practice, for the next car I will run a copper cooling loop with a real dryer.

jasons,

You had the right idea with the water trap etc... you just put it to close. 50 feet minimum (a 50f air hose works just fine). Also it is a good idea even with this setup to run a Sno-ball on the gun just in case.

Oh BTW Always before paint purge your compressor... I know that is kind-of-like a DUH comment but you wouldn't believe how many overlook that step.

Yeah, next time I plan to build a new cooling loop for sure.

I did purge the compressor. In fact, I left the drains open all night before the morning of paint.

BTW tdgray, I see the MGA in your sig..... My best friend has an MGA Coupe that his dad bought new in 1957.