could the fuel be heated up enough to cause vapor lock more readily?? (this I doubt, but had to ask
)
Full Version: Temperature in front trunk with radiator??
just wondering how darn hot does it get up in there????
could the fuel be heated up enough to cause vapor lock more readily?? (this I doubt, but had to ask )
could the fuel be heated up enough to cause vapor lock more readily?? (this I doubt, but had to ask
)
Hey, I can finally answer a question 
Have front and rear coolant temp gauges on the V8. Front sensor at point where coolant leaves to return to engine, rear in cylinder head at last exhaust port where it returns to radiator.
Normal ops: front: 165 rear: 210
Hot (uphill Mulholland fast clip 100 ambient) : front: 235 rear: 190
Will overfill 1 quart puke tank when running hot, so will go to 1 gallon if it will fit.
Fuel tank will become warm to touch, but don't believe it's enough to cause a problem.
Have front and rear coolant temp gauges on the V8. Front sensor at point where coolant leaves to return to engine, rear in cylinder head at last exhaust port where it returns to radiator.
Normal ops: front: 165 rear: 210
Hot (uphill Mulholland fast clip 100 ambient) : front: 235 rear: 190
Will overfill 1 quart puke tank when running hot, so will go to 1 gallon if it will fit.
Fuel tank will become warm to touch, but don't believe it's enough to cause a problem.
Can't you guys duct the hot air out. I realize that would sacrifice some storage space but it would have to help with temps.
The factory sure went to extremes to separate hot and cool. I know it's a different space but, still.
Dave
The factory sure went to extremes to separate hot and cool. I know it's a different space but, still.
Dave
It would seem that the trunk and tank temperature would be dependent on the max air temp coming off the radiator. I don't know what that would be. 140? 160? 180? The bulkhead between the trunk and tank will eventually approach the max air temp, during which the tank is also being heated.
Interesting question.
Interesting question.
Don't sweat it (pun)
just get some of that silver insulating material and install it on the bulkhead. That will keep the hot air away from the fuel tank.
You can alway glue carpet over the top of it if you want to hide the insulation.
Cost for the insulation is less than a case of cheap beer.
just get some of that silver insulating material and install it on the bulkhead. That will keep the hot air away from the fuel tank.
You can alway glue carpet over the top of it if you want to hide the insulation.
Cost for the insulation is less than a case of cheap beer.
QUOTE(maf914 @ Sep 9 2004, 05:46 AM)
It would seem that the trunk and tank temperature would be dependent on the max air temp coming off the radiator. I don't know what that would be. 140? 160? 180? The bulkhead between the trunk and tank will eventually approach the max air temp, during which the tank is also being heated.
Interesting question.
Interesting question.
My bet is kinda..
You should have at least 3x exit to intake area for air. So the hot air is leaving. All easy with conventional front or rear engine cars, but middies a problem. Put the fuel tank by the engine or radiator??
You do lose the front storage area when you do this kind of conversion. Cooling the fuel, or better yet the fuel/air mixture is always a good idea.
Never had a problem with vapor lock but did learn how important it was to seal all openings into cabin. This was evident only after installing a/c. At that point I could easily locate all leak points into cabin and what a difference it made by sealing them off.
It was only at this point that I realized I was running in a "heater on" mode during the summer weather prior to installing a/c. On the other hand, I was always comfortable in the winter months without a real heater.
A good seal between hood and bulkhead gasket was a key contributor to supplying hot air to fuel tank cavity in my case.
John
It was only at this point that I realized I was running in a "heater on" mode during the summer weather prior to installing a/c. On the other hand, I was always comfortable in the winter months without a real heater.
A good seal between hood and bulkhead gasket was a key contributor to supplying hot air to fuel tank cavity in my case.
John
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.