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jeffdon
Just like the title says. All of a sudden, it's slow to build up, and not as high as before. I am scared.
VaccaRabite
check your oil level - is it where it should be?
dump it into a clean oil pan - look for metal flakes.

it could be sludge against the pressure sensor, pump failing, or it could be a bearing that ate itself or something else.

I'd not run the engine any more until you know. Pull it and start diagnosing.

Zach
jeffdon
QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Feb 23 2012, 06:24 PM) *

check your oil level - is it where it should be?
dump it into a clean oil pan - look for metal flakes.

it could be sludge against the pressure sensor, pump failing, or it could be a bearing that ate itself or something else.

I'd not run the engine any more until you know. Pull it and start diagnosing.

Zach


My thoughts exactly. level looks good. Crap, tearing it down to the replace the pump stage? that sucks.
VaccaRabite
You can replace the pump with the engine in the car. I've done it. Easier to pull the engine but it can be done.
Zach
ArtechnikA
QUOTE(jeffdon @ Feb 23 2012, 06:40 PM) *

Just like the title says. All of a sudden, it's slow to build up, and not as high as before. I am scared.
#1 cause of problems lke this - bad indicator.
Sensor or guage.
Put in something calibrated before deciding it's the engine and not the instrument.
jeffdon
QUOTE(ArtechnikA @ Feb 24 2012, 03:00 AM) *

QUOTE(jeffdon @ Feb 23 2012, 06:40 PM) *

Just like the title says. All of a sudden, it's slow to build up, and not as high as before. I am scared.
#1 cause of problems lke this - bad indicator.
Sensor or guage.
Put in something calibrated before deciding it's the engine and not the instrument.


Good idea. I can pop in the mechanical gauge i used in break in. Running grease gun hose to a 911 indicator now, so its quite accessible.
jeffdon
QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Feb 23 2012, 11:00 PM) *

You can replace the pump with the engine in the car. I've done it. Easier to pull the engine but it can be done.
Zach


That sounds like a total PITA. By the way, Zach, from what I have read, we have similar engine builds.
76-914
I run the mech oil pressure units, only. Easier to calibrate and reliable. I never have bought into the wussy fear of oil leaks. However I am afraid of elec sender erroneous readings. beerchug.gif
jeffdon
QUOTE(76-914 @ Feb 24 2012, 07:32 AM) *

I run the mech oil pressure units, only. Easier to calibrate and reliable. I never have bought into the wussy fear of oil leaks. However I am afraid of elec sender erroneous readings. beerchug.gif


Note to self. Check oil on LEVEL surface. When I checked yesterday, I was on what I thought was a slight slope. Sure does not take much to throw off the reading.

Now I can get back to worrying about the fact I am running AA pistons and cylinders.

Would anyone know the part no. for the right Keith Black pistons to use if you bore out your stock cylinders? 96mm I believe.
EdwardBlume
Yikes. How old is your rebuild? unsure.gif
jeffdon
QUOTE(RobW @ Feb 24 2012, 07:53 PM) *

Yikes. How old is your rebuild? unsure.gif


Got about 1.5 yrs and 6k miles on it.
SLITS
Also, find someone with a proper oil filter cutter and cut the filter. Easy way to examine an engine for metal particles.

And I did say a proper oil filter cutter ... not a hacksaw.
ArtechnikA
QUOTE
Also, find someone with a proper oil filter cutter and cut the filter. Easy way to examine an engine for metal particles.
And I did say a proper oil filter cutter ... not a hacksaw.

Good tip.
I spent a bunch $$$ for a beautiful anodized-aluminum cutter from Pegasus.
It doesn't work worth a damn but I admire it on my pegboard. It's just not strong enough to make it through quality filters capable of withstanding the oil pressures our engines can make.

So I got a big honkin' black painted thing from Summit for about $10.
Works great.

[edit: OK - that must have been a while ago because I see they're now $40.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900510/
Still worth it.]
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