uh oh - I'm trying to figure out what vacuum tubes go where and my reality does not match the schematic, and worse, it appears that someone may have gotten creative.

In the pix below - I don't know what the 'Y' is, and it appears that in the second pic there has been some rubber goop poured around the fitting.

From the Y - one hose goes immediately to the fitting nearby - the other travels around the engine bay - thru the thing in pic3, and back to the 'customized' fitting with the rubber goop on it.

have a look a the pix and see if you can tell what is going on here....please.

thanks all

td

That is your AAR and your decel valve. No fuel there, just air.

Thanks Dr. Evil - so the Y fitting is normal? I'll make sure the hoses are solid and put her back together -

thx

td

Oh, one more thing - the AAR is?????

need to have an acronym translator on the site somewhere for the newbie in me!

Sorry, AAR = auxiliary air regulator. It lets in air when cold and cuts off extra air when warm. Just make sure all the fittings are tight and no leaks and it wont be the cause of your next problem.

Except that there are too many hoses and wrong sizes there for the AAR. Should be one from AAR to air cleaner, other from AAR to plenum. See Pelican diagrams for confermation. They have some good hose layouts.
Tom

Thanks Tom - that is what I'm seeing as well - I have the Pelican diagrams and I've got more hoses than they show!

Question - how can I tell if I have a bad decal valve?
how can i tell if I have a bad MPS? I unplugged it while the car was running and heard a vacuum release and the car sputtered pretty well - then cleared when I gave it some revs after reattaching the hose.

the issue I have is a missing and sputtering at low throttle - so when cruising down the fwy, ti will miss every so often (buck?) and then be ok. I suspect the TPS.

As I start out in 1st, sometimes I am only hitting a couple of cylinders, then it clears and is ok.

the exhaust smells too rich when it is in sputter mode - so we are not firing on all cylinders - but what would be the intermittent cause of this? Plugs look fine, timing 'seems' ok. I have not played with the points or condenser yet. Valves have just been done.

are trigger points an intermittent symptom?

all the hoses I have seem to have a home - and are now tight and hose clamped - so I don't think it is an air leak any longer...something else???

it appears that the hose configuration is a creative attempt by someone to 'augment' the factory layout - I'm worried that I don't know what I don't know at this point since I've never seen the 'right' layout!


any help appreciated - a bit on the frustrating side at this point.....

thx

td

I'm replying to my own thread! will go and check the TPS, but I cannot find any reference to just where the thing is and how to get it apart enough to use the pencil eraser trick? I've searched and searched, but am not coming up with the idiots guide to finding, erasing, and fixing the TPS.

can someone point me in the right direction?

thx

td

TPS is attached to the throttle body under a small black cover.
Sorry, I can't help much other than that. I think to get it running better you need to get the hose lay-out correct as this can cause other problems, maybe covered up by the previous owner's creative hose connections. I know it is not much help, but getting things back to stock, then proceding from there is, I believe, the best way to get it running better.
Have you read Paul Anders D-jet info? There is a link here on the club site, I think under technical info.
Tom

ok< crap - it is not the TPS! I found the thing - used the legendary pencil eraser technique on it, and we still have sputtering issues.

also, even at idle, we seem to be running on only 3-ish cylinders now - aaarrrggghhhhh

it is possible that the low throttle bucking is ever so slightly better, but not enough to keep me away from the vodka bottle tonight to drown my sorrows!

any thoughts on this mess?

td

Maybe this will help

Click to view attachment

looks like he has a 1.7L djet setup so the 2.0L layout won't do him much good.

I noticed you're in norcal, post your location maybe someone here lives close and would be willing to come by and help.


Jeff

Disconnect the TPS to see if the bucking goes away. It will run w/o it though not as responsive. I like that plastic y-fitting. That is off the fuel system but no biggie. The car will also run w/o the decel valve but may backfire when cold.
Now hear this; pull everyone of those ancient POS hoses and replace them. Even the rubber couplings on your intake runners look bad. If your AAR is cracked or broken you can find plenty here to replace it with. Buy a 914 Hayne's manual, a timing lite <$29 @ Harbor Freight, a dwell meter off ebay <$30 then bookmark these two sites and start reading them (over & over). http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/TechNotebook.htm and
http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/ WARNING: We have an old shark (name of Cap'n Krusty, cruising these waters) and if he suspects you are not trying to educate yourself in this process he will chastise thee forthright. Ask me how I know.

Having recently "been in the shoes" of the OP I have to say that was good advice and well said.

I do have a 1.7L D-Jet, but I like the chart! is there a similar one for my vintage? I'm looking for the right lengths and girths of the hoses so I can go buy the right thing - have researched the various sites but am not finding the right parts list for the purchase.

thx

td

UNDERSTOOD - I am trying to learn my way thru this thing - thanks for the reference links, I had not seen those before. I have the Haynes manual and timing light, don't have a dwell meter.

Thanks for you help....also, located in Napa if anyone fancies a drive up a twisty mountain road - wine awaits those making the trek....

td

If you're in napa maybe you should go by McMarks shop in Sonoma, Original customs. He is your local 914 expert probably get your problem fixed in no time, plus he probably has all the parts you need, new vacuum lines ect.
He's usually in the shop on Sunday. Hope this helps.

Jeff

One other basic thing you can easily check is to make sure the plug wires go to the right plugs.