I got the engine turning over today. Thanks for the help. I now have the case draining 23 year old oil and have mystery oil in the cylinders soaking.


I put a new battery in and the engine turns over nicely. I am going to replace the fluids tomorrow and try to fire it up.

#1 The tank is full. What are the chances that 23 year old gas is any good. Is there a way to test? Will there be water at the bottom of the tank, I would assume so and I will have to syphon 17 gallons, not a job I am looking forward to.

#2 I don't hear the fuel pump when the ignition is turned on. I don't see a fuse for it so I assume it is just relayed.

Where is the relay and pump located?

Thanks

0% chance the gas is good. 100% chance the bad gas will muck up your fuel system. Easy to drain, easy to remove tank. I recommend doing so to clean it. Old gas is a stinky varnish-like mess.
Early pumps are underneath the car, close to the firewall on the passenger side. Ecu triggers FP relay via signal from distributor once engine is running. Turning the key only energizes it for a moment.

Ok, So I won't hear it. Can I get to it from under the car and power it to test?

IS there a tank drain located from underneath?

PS: FP relay is located on a relay board -- in engine compartment on driver side firewall. There is a fuse on that board as well as several other relays. See Brad Anders web site with D-jet operation information and/or Jeff Bowlsby's tech page on his website with schematics for FP and relay board wiring. Both come up quickly on google.

Two rubber fuel lines from bottom of tank connect to plastic fuel lines that run through car body. Supposed to be enough slack to pull tank partly to remove lines. If the car has sat it may be most expedient to cut them off close to the tank and replace with new. I drain my tank from where the through-body plastic fuel lines exit into the engine bay underneath very close to aforementioned fuel pump.

If your teener has been sitting that long, replace all fuel lines before starting. Especially replace those plastic lines.

I'll echo that which is already said. DO NOT attempt to start before you have the fuel system cleaned out and preferably replaced. You'll cause yourself a whole lotta grief that will take longer to clean up than doing the pre-emptive stuff. While your in there you should also consider doing the vacuum lines. Vacuum leaks in these engines cause no end of problems and the old lines are the most common source.

Be patient with bringing her back to life. It will pay big dividends!

A good source outside of World:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/914tech_articles.htm

Use Search, and you'll find many posts on gas tanks, old gas, and the fuel system

Sorry, I missed that one. The fuel pump is accessible from underneath the engine bay on the passenger side. It hangs from a bracket screwed to the sheet metal of the engine compartment. It is a cylindrical, "in line" pump, though early stock pumps have three barbs on one side.

After that many years, I will promise that all the FI hoses are by now wasted. Ditto the vacuum and rubber brake lines. They may look sound, but they are not. You will chase many problems until they are replaced. Do it while you're still young and strong.

The plastic supply and return hoses exit the firewall underneath the engine bay as well.
Changing the plastic through-body hoses is no small job. These lines are not under FI system pressure and I have not changed them. Many people have converted those to SS hose routed through the center tunnel where the control cables live. This is recommended if you relocate the pump to a cooler location in the forward trunk where, so I understand, the OEM 75, 76 pumps were installed. I haven't felt the need to do that, either.

When I started working on my car I pulled the filter to drain the tank. When most the gas was out, I pulled the tank, cutting the rubber lines that were connecting it close to the tank, then cleaned and lined it with Red-kote. This was after I'd clogged some filters and burned up my original fuel pump.