I know this has been covered repeatedly..
I guess I'm not good at searching...

1) I'm looking for btdt ideas on plugging the air ports on the 75 2.0 motor...

2) also would love to know if I need to readjust the mixture or do anything to the FI after I plug these.

thanks in advance
brant

You can solder them up...or use brass caps available from a hardware store. If I remember...they are standard threads as the injectors were a US required item.

10x1 mm isn't exactly hardware store stuff. Use the injectors, braze or weld the inlet end. The Cap'n

Do I need to worry about the mixture after I plug them?

brant

On my '75 2.0L they are brazed closed. Don't have any info for you on mixture but I'll be waiting to hear what others have to say about it.

i found caps at the local ace harware. works fine.

Nathan,

did you need to adjust mixture afterwards?
does this even affect mixture (by pumping in all that extra oxygen?)

brant

No, as the air is pumped into the exhaust stream. The idea was the promote more oxidation of any leftover HCs in the exhaust pipe itself. It also assisted in the early style "oxidizing" catalyst used in those days. If you've since swapped to a newer catalytic convertor, then it will be a three-way "reduction" catalyst. If you've removed the cat altogether...

According to at least one emissions engineer I know (guy inside Ford), the air pumps were only useful if the HC level was really high, which should only happen if your mixture was way off, or you where misfiring from ignition problems. In other words, the air pump was only useful if your car needed a tune-up or had some other problem. If your car was in good nick, the air pump was a pretty useless appendage. With a modern catalytic convertor, it's genuinely useless, as the cat by itself will clean up the exhaust tremendously.

I think the air nozzles delivered air to the exhaust ports, not the conbustion chamber, to promote additional combustion of the exhaust gases. Their removal should not affect the mixture in the chamber, but emissions are another matter.

nah, you shouldn't need to adjust the mixture.


as long as you're at it, you can rip out the EGR stuff too. be sure to plug any holes (one in exhaust, one to air cleaner box). i picked up a bit more power that way, and the car ran cooler.

nate

See Krusty.....told ya. I did the same thing back in ......um, when was it....um brain freeze....

88 or sumthin'.... :finger2:

I used bolts the same size as the air injectors and no other adjustments are necessary...Loctite, screw em' in and forget um'...Just make sure they are not to long, don't want them to go into the cylinder...

2-OH!

how long is too long...
Sounds like a 10 metric with a 1.0 pitch...

(I can find bolts pretty well, since there is a local place with nearly everything)

brant

Thread in the air injectors, snug em' down, mark with fine tip pen where the head of your bolt will rest...

Remove and measure...subtract a few (2 or 3) millimeters because you do not want to be in as deep as the injectors...should be about 45 mm or there bout's...

How's that for scientific...

2-OH!

The el-cheapo method is, scew in used 10mm valve adjusting screws.

Phil

10x1x45mm bolts will do the trick...

BTDT.

User loctite no matter what you use to block them up.

later,
Tom

I used 10 X 55 mm bolts. works great.