OK so I'm ready to drop the motor I got a copy of the bird list...on how to drop the motor....So I'm trying to remove the front motor mounts bolts, and they keep on spinning how do I even get a wrench in there.
..waiting for a answer

The motor mount bar that connects to the chassis right? Put a socket on top, and a wrench on bottom..and remove bolt....

Not sure what size, thee are are Jaime, but is gave me one heluva time, as both sides had different bolt head sizes...

It shouldn't be that hard! I use a offset wrench that has a bend at the ends and sits down into the U-bracket.

I have even gotten a short socket on it!

I KNOW THAT.... but how do I get one in there from the top ?

You don't you have to do it from under the car!

I like to just put the top wrench on while under the car and use an impact wrench to zip the bottom bolt off!

Just that I can't seem to find a good opening on the driver side?

Just set the wrench over the bolt up here and loosen from the bottom!

If you just cant do it you can remove the H/E to gain some room!

PS: the one in this photo is upside down! I got it from the Pelican!

http://www.914world.com/specs/tech_engdrop1.php

Just went through this Saturday when dropped my engine! For some reason all instructions I have seen don't say that there is a top nut ( 15mm ) that you have to secure with a wrench while turning bottom 14mm bolt outboard engine mount connections You got to have the wheels off and get your head up there or else do it by braille. Helps to have extra set of hands.

I also secured the engine mount bar with a jammed in 2x4 to keep it from falling when last bolt out, its is a little heavy.

Got my engine out with only that as an issue and everything disconnected except for the a long ground strap to chassis. Somehow overlooked that.

Good luck!

That is the way the bolt is susposed to be. It keeps the nut and the threads from getting buggered up when you run over something.

a deep socket on the top with ratchet and a combination or ratchet-socket on the bottom. Not that hard to get access. Its the cold floor.
Gary

cold floor..its raining and cold in Pomona...thanks so much all, I had to pull the tin from the side to get a socket in but i did

I have found it is always easier to remove the engine AFTER removing the exhaust.

Where do you think half of all the dents & scrapes on the HE comes from?
Trying to remove the engine with it still attached.

Stu

Bolt head on the bottom gives you more room ...

I am sure you are right!! I have seen it both ways!

It is a bit harder to install the motor that way. If you do it with the bolt head on top you can just jack the motor onto the bolt and thread on the nut.

This is going to sound obtuse... but why is this so hard? I did mine in a little over 2 hours and that was mostly just to stop and document with photos. Not sure what you're doing different?

I dropped one qlast weekend and the bolt was so rusty I had to cut the mount holder, but in my case the tub is shot and oi will cut it up anyway

Not hard, just the first time for me....the one bolt (driver side) I wasn't sure how to get the socket in there. but thanks to uall...its done.

And just like the rest of us, now that you've done it once you too are an expert.

Yep, nice job bud. Its deceivingly simple. What, you mean four bolts hold all of this in there? My neighbors still don't believe me. And this is also what I tell people when they ask me why I bought that "piece of crap." 30-35 mpg and if the engine does die, I can change it out after work in enough time to get to work/school the next day!

IF four bolts are holding your eng/trans to your car...I think yours is missing two bolts

Two main engine bar bolts, two main transmission bolts. I didn't remove the brackets for the engine bar bolts. 2+2=4?

i think he was refering to the two at the rear of the tranny. hence, his engine/tranny statement!