What all is involved in putting FI BACK on my '74 2.0? Any idea about the cost of parts, likelyhood of it working, etc? EVERYTHING related to the old FI is gone so I would need everything.

fuelpump, harness, brain, hardware (injectors, rails etc.), throttle body, tons of vacum lines, aux. valve, MPS, and most likely a new cam too ...

but once it's done and set up right, it'll be better than any carb setup will ever be.
hehe, "flames on" you carb guys!

Andy

I sold my entire D-jet setup (from the PO) for ~$200, minus the cams, which I didn't get with the car. Your best bet is to find somebody who's converted to carbs and snag their stuff. Preferably somebody who did it to build a hotrod/race motor as opposed to because they couldn't get the FI to work properly...

The big problem will be finding a “good known running” stock FI set up, if it’s a basket ‘o’ parts off of ebay then you have to start searching for missing pieces, or it has a junk MPS, etc. it could get real expensive fast.

There is a guy here that has a Mega-squirt FI system going, it’s DIY kit and quite cheap, but there is a fair bit of build time. I’m going with a SDS FI system, it is an ‘almost’ plug and play unit, but it costs more. Both are programmable so you can leave the engine stock or Hi-po, it’s just a matter of programming.
Both of these systems you still need the stock intake, TB, injectors, fuel pump, pressure regulator, etc. and a bit of work, but it’s still better than carb’s. If this does interest you use your search button and look up these systems.

If you do stick with the carb’s ditch the POS progressive and get a set of dual webers.

Putting the FI back on is pretty easy. The hardest piece to find is a good MPS without buying new. The second toughest piece is the FI wiring harness which you can get rebuilt by Jeff Bowlsby. Other than that it just bolts on. Try to find a complete working set from a racer who is going to big carbs so you get all the parts complete and working. The 74 set up is the best year for the FI.
Geoff

Hey, tell me more. I thought D-jet was pretty much d-jet. Was it an emissions system change that was the improvement?

Kevin

The 73 2.0L has a little richer mix setting (MPS) and the 74 is just alittle leaner. But the 73 has the one off parts that can be hard to find. The later cars (75/76) are set up even leaner that they can run with the air injection and crappy exhaust.(emmissions)
You can run any year set up but to really get it to run right you need to take it to a dyno shop and tune it. The MPS's are adjustable as is the fuel pressure to a degree.
Geoff

I converted my perfect running '76 2.0 to carbs when I built a 2270 last year. I have a complete d-jet from the air box to the injectors, including everything but the dizzy, which I am still using.

I would like to get more than $200 for everything considering how much all of the components go for individually, and how damn expensive the engine turned out to be.

Last time this came up, I started my asking price at $500 and was pretty quickly told that that was too much. Its hard realizing that something that you thought was valuable actually isn’t.

If that '76 set up will work on my '74 2.0, I might be interested in working something out. Not to sound dumb, but what is a dizzy? My best guess is "distributor."

The 76 Djet set up will work fine, you will need to find a Djet 2.0L distributor. You can get rebuild 1.7l ones for around $60 that will work too. Get all the pieces:
The ECU mounting brackets so it fits onto the battery tray
FI harness
Order a new CHT don't bother using an old one
Order a new hose set for all the vacuum hoses
Order new high pressure Porsche FI fuel lines, other brands kinds will crack and leak in short order causing a fire
Order new fuel line clamps (Porsche type) not the cheap crap at the FLAPS that pinch the line
Order new injector seals
can't remember what else...
Geoff

dizzy=distributor

Thanks for all the info. I met with a guy over on the West side of Atlanta today that runs a shop that specializes in Porsche's. (no, not AA). The only sign on this guys place was one that read "Import Auto Repair." I stopped because he had two 914's, about 1/2 a dozen 911's (one with a 930 conversion), a couple of 944's, and a 924 sitting in front of his shop. He was this older greek guy that has a team of Porsche's he races at Atlanta and at the new Barber Motorsports track in Birmingham. (if you have not checked out this new track, take a look: I think it is at www.barbermotorsports.com. Anyway, he felt like returning it to FI was the way to go for my purposes but said it would not be easy.

Mike,

The actual work is easy, the biggest problem will be whether or not the parts you are putting on the car are known to be in perfect working order.

Now I don't mean, get everything done in two hours easy.....but it's not like you'd need to drop the engine...basic hand tools and a weekend to kill should do it...

If you decide to go this route, I'd say the easiest thing to do is put the parts together on your workbench and "mock" everything up and post pictures and ask questions.

The link below shows most of the parts you will need.

D-Jet parts

I switched over in a weekend but it didn't run until I installed a new relay board. The fuel pump circuit was toasted but a bad heater booster fan. Started right up first time and idled a 2000 rpms until I started figuring out what has pluged in wrong.
It's really not that big a deal to reinstall, to get running right with unknown parts is a bitch.
Geoff

FI set-ups off ebay are usually sub $200, and generally less because they are always incomplete and mostly junk parts. They are a huge gamble and unknown, don't believe it when you are told, 'the FI worked great, I just wanted carbs more'. The FI systems were only removed because they didn't work in the first place right? You would have to get multple systems to even have a chance of getting one complete working system, and then youd have a bunch of spare odd parts. What will you do with 4 air filter boxes?

Swapping the FI for carbs is a 2-3 hour process...its very easy. Locating correct, working parts can be...exhausting...

What should used, bolt-on, certified good D-Jet system be worth assuming nothing for your time to accumulate and test? Here is a general list, assuming that small unmentioned bits associated with larger bits are included and these parts can be found used at ebay prices:

Hardware:
25 Intake manifolds
25 Intake air plenum, TTS, TS1
50 Intake gaskets/air filter/fuel filter
25 Air filter housing/filter
75 Throttle body/TPS

Fuel:
40 Fuel pump
20 Fuel rails
20 FP regulator
50 New fuel lines/used clamps

FI components:
40 ECU
100 FI harness (used, minor repairs), ground lug
160 Injectors, cold start valve
80 MPS
20 New TS2
80 Dizzy/trigger points
20 Decel valve
50 New vacuum hoses

$880 Samolians

I Love the D-Jet...both my 74 cars have it still intact, I hope it lasts 4ever, but I know better. Carbs wont work as well as the D-Jet on a stock engine, and aftermarket FI systems, require sigificant dyno time to dial-in correctly.

Good luck finding a decent used harness, MPS, Dizzy especially ones for a 73-74 2.0. Near impossible, these 30 year old wires and parts are just plain 'at the end of their usable service life' and often require repairs or replacement. Certain parts are wear parts and will need to be replaced at some point...the TPS, MPS, injectors, filters etc.

That's why the best deal is too buy from someone on the list who is going to carbs for race reasons (big four) and is selling the whole kit and kaboodle from a working car. You might have to wait a few months but will be way ahead in the long run.
Jeff, I have found in 7 years 2 good 73-74 FI harnesses, all the rest were junk that I tossed. Pickins is gettin slimmer all the time too!
Geoff

Mike.. I received your email, but havent had a chance to respond to you personally.

Give me a day or two. It appears Geoff/Jeff/ and the other Mikes have you headed down the right path.

B