Do you find the oil cooling offered by the slim cooler that fits under the GT replica air shroud, sufficient?

The setup I pulled off the donor car was excellent, but it's so huge!

I've seen alot of guys use the Setrab or Mazda RX7 coolers, but I'm worried about being stuck in San Diego/Los Angeles traffic!

I would like to hear about how well the under car setrab works for the builds I have seen here from Series 9. If any of those folks want to chime in that would be of interest as well.

I've seen MoveQuiks car in person, and the oil system looks great for the 3.2, however for the 3.6 I'm thinking I need the front setup

No. Bigger is better, especially for the 3.6L since it doesn't have a cooler on the engine like the 3.2L has.

Here's what i did:












More details here:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=44700

We mounted two setrab fan pack coolers on the 3.6 install we did.
They're mounted on either side of the trans, with a heat shield on top of each header to eliminate radiant heating of the coolers.
When the fans come on in traffic the oil temp drops quickly.

Andy, great great setup, may I ask what cooler and how many rows and such?

Maybe McMark remembers the details, it's been a few years.

Going through my conversion thread, i found this:

- Fluidyne oil cooler

- 21" x 6"

I know you probably won't go with a dual under-truck setup like Series 9 has done before...but I was always wondering, are those under trunk fans blowing air through the cooler or pulling it through?

I have the set up of which you speak and was around when AZ914 did his as well. The fans pull air through. Mine are always on when the car is on and I have never had heat issues. I have driven the car in town on a beautiful 112 degree AZ day without issue. I was sweating my ass off but the engine was fine. The only time I see temps go up is on long, steady grades but they still stay within the acceptable range.

Good stuff to know, I had a manual switch on my hot 2.0/4 with carbs. When I put in the 2.7 I may just leave it on all the time too.

Awesome Andy, thanks.

Ever been in gnarly traffic with it? That's my biggest concern

Yes, i have. 100+ summer day sitting in traffic in Salt Lake City.
The temps were high, but still OK, around 220.

However, the gas tank got too hot to touch and the fuel pump started to get noisy from pumping vapors!


Once i finish my out the hood shroud, i will add one or two fans to it that i can switch on manually.

As long as i'm rolling the temps never get over 200 on the street and never over 210 at the track ...

I have a 993 engine as well and so my cooling needs are much the same as Andy's.
This engine also has another oil filter where the earlier cooler sits behind cylinder #6 and I have a sandwich adapter with another cooler in the rear of the car... need it in southern summers and on the track. The first two pix are during the build and the last is about 11 years later.

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As Andy said the 3.2L engine doesn't need nearly as much surface area with it's onboard cooler.

Good luck

Not trying to hijack this thread, but since my question seems completely related.....I guess this is as good a time and place to ponder this as any. I am putting a stock 3.2 Motronic engine in my car. I know it will need an external cooler in addition to the one on the motor. I really do not want to cut open my front end and do a GT set-up. It has been suggested by some experienced, respected people that:

1. do an oil cooler and fan over the passenger side axle and that will give me plenty of cooling and avoid having to run lines to the front of the car or cut open the front. If I did that, how much noise would the fan make when on? And, how effective would that solution be?

2. Do a trombone style, as in stock 911, in the front fender like the 911 is set up. Now if I did I think that the plus would be I would get to buy Eric Shea's very cool GT oil line kit to run the oil up to the front of the car. How effective would that be?

What are the collective thoughts on cooling for a 3.2 in the East Bay Area where in the summer it is not uncommon to see temperatures over 100 degrees.

Thanks for the collective brain power on this one.
Michael

I have a 3.2 with a SETRAB cooler inside a replica GT shroud. This cooler is totally fine with a 3.2. I live in So. Cal and it gets toasty in the summer time. My car barely gets to operating temps with the cooler, but if I am stuck in traffic in the summer time it creeps up and then the cooler fan kicks on.
Since the 3.6 does not have an oil cooler on the engine you will most likely need a bigger cooler than the one that fits into the GT shroud. Most people make there own shroud and run a bigger cooler.

That's what I'm thinking at this point, as I live in SoCal as well and I can just imagine being stuck in traffic somewhere on the 5 during rush hour

I do have the GT shroud, but I'm thinking I'll mount the cooler and such, run it for a little while, and then modify the shroud to fit around the cooler

I'm sure someone has installed an earlier cooler behind cylinder #6 on a 3.6L engine to reduce the size of the external one. I certainly considered it but didn't have an extra one then like I do now (from the 3.2L car I'm parting out... in the FS section) .

In that case you would want to add an additional inline filter that's there to keep, unless you replaced them with mechanical versions, the hydraulic valve adjusters unclogged.

I have the copper-tube cooler from my Carrera and I don't think there's enough space for it in the 914, but I could be wrong so... Before I sell it off, I'll see next week if there be room for it up there.

If not, there is room in front of the right rear tire, where I'm considering mounting my transaxle oil cooler/fan unit.

AIR MANAGEMENT IS CRITICAL!!! teh air will follow the path of least resistance. look at how tight the shrouds are on the samples above. the air must be forced to go thru the cooler . if not sealed up it will go around, thru the gaps

as soon as Andy is moving, he creates a high pressure zone on teh front of the cooler. inside teh trunk is relatively negative psi compared to front. flow is created by a difference in pressure.

I cant see what Ron has fwd of his cooler but I want to copy his cooler exit/exhaust for my V8

Rons exit is well proven by the likes of 917, GT40, GT2 and many other famous bad ass cars. that leading edge flap creates a low pressure zone behind it thus extracting teh hot air like a venturi draws fuel in a carb.

Ron: can you show us the front area of your set up?

Note: None of this is SCCA track legal. AX is ok in SSM.

The 917 was the inspiration for this outlet shape. Doing it again I wouldn't have cut those tabs on the trailing edge. They're constantly in the way (and get bent) when filling up with fuel jugs. That sometimes happens when you let your right-brain overcome your left-brain in the design process. In front of the cooler...

I'll see if there is a pic somewhere but it's very tight in front of a 15 gallon cell. Below's a sketch I drew up on a flight from Manila that defined the mod. A 28 hour flight is too long not to do some noodling over what to do with your 914 when you get home. Prior to doing aero research this sketch shows the hood vent way farther back than I built it. Air pressure increases the farther back you go on the hood with the strongest low pressure zone right behind the bumper. I made templates of the deflector plates you see sticking up along the leading edge of the outlet. That way I can slide in different height deflectors depending on the speed of the track. Perhaps this description will help until I find a photo.

The inlet duct goes all the way to the front bumper through the bodywork and is attached to the cooler frame. One caveat in this installation is that the cooler is so large (with the hose fittings) that the cooler, therefore the ducting had to be offset, which I don't think you can make out from the pix. I'd have had more room if I had used -16AN fittings rather than adapt to the -12AN, but the cost scared me away. Now I wish I had. I do use -16AN for the oil tank return line though. I'd like to have used -20AN for that one, but the space for it is very tight.

So to make both the hood outlet and the bumper inlet centered on the car, I had to fab the cooler and ducting to go slightly toward the driver's side on both. It added somewhat more time to the build.

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