Alright .. I finally found the hidden switch to open the trunk on my newly acquired 914 ..
I has a 2.0 liter with single carb on the engine .. Pop the trunk and this is what I found ... can some one ID these for me .. Any help is appreciated ...
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or let me know if there are numbers on these that I should get and add here to ID them ...

I think this is a good thing .. I am more versed on the 911's and I know they aren't for a 911 and seeing they were found in a 914 trunk leads me to think they should go in this one ...

Thanks .... Steve

It might help if you get a better picture of them. It should say on the side somewhere who makes them also.

they are Weber's took another quick shoot ... The first shoot was just after I popped the trunk ... I will look on them to see if I can find a number tomorrow .. It does say weber and on the bottom they say made in spain ...
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Wow you guys are just as quick as that other place for 911's ... thanks for the quick in site ... every body told me if you get a 914 then go to 914world.com ...

I think I am going to like it here ....

Steve

Im sure someone will ID them, but I would venture to bet they are 40's or 44's. Hopefully 40's as they are more useful on stock displacement engines.

The model number is stamped into the edge of the bases. You'll have to look pretty hard and/or do some cleanup. Sometimes the stamping is light and hard to read.

I see the stamping, but it looks like typical IHOP gas syrup all over the numbers.

Squirt liberally with carb cleaner/plastic bristle brush and call us in the morning

They look like they have a choke. I didn't have that on my 40 IDF webers...

Some do, some don't. Mine do. My last did also.

Got the gunky syrup off the side and found they have stamped in the body 40 IDF 70 6G ...
I will check the jets and such .. for numbers and sizes ..
Any one have a starting point for what I would need for these to work in my 2.0 ??
The elevation in Stockton is 15' above sea level on average (don't know if that makes a difference ?
Also they appear to have chokes on them .. should those be hooked up ??
Also there are no velocity stacks in the air cleaners .. should i look for a set ??
The current set of filters are 31/4" tall .. are these correct ? or ?
The Carbs look very clean on the in side .. the outside a bit of gunk .. should I rebuild them or ?? Check the jetting and idles and hook em up or ?

This is all fairly new to me haven't done much carb work so excuse the "dumb" questions .. mostly I am a R&R shade tree mechanic ... with enough knowledge just to be dangerous ..

Thanks for any help

Steve

I know many have said this before but this is a great site .. I have had contact with a few here and its all been good .. and its really great to see that I know a few of you from the Birds 911 board ....

40's should be solid on a mild 2L. 32 venturi's would be a good start.
Memory escapes me for air correction jets/mains. Guessing you'd start with a 50 idle jet.


Do yourself a favor, and remove the chokes (unless you can think of a non 'rigged' solution to use them, and its cold in your are).

Yes, go through and rebuild the carbs.
Air cleaners are standard height for aftermarket carbs. (fit under rain tray).

Thanks Aaron .. found a place that has the choke block off's ..
any thoughts on velocity stacks ?
Car is mainly going to be used for AX and little street driving .. it does get cold here in the winter but not cold by eastern standards low 40's freezes at night about 3 months out of the year ..

The longer, the better. For AX, you'll want as much low end torque you can get.

as Andy was alluding to, there is some science to velocity stacks and intake length...

Jake and the other engine guru's could elaborate further.

Most people run the typical 2" stacks under a 3" filter.

Thanks for the info .. looks like i get to do some shopping ... any body got recommendations ?? I get a lot of my 911 stuff at the Bird .. AA gets lot of nods for the 914's .. first stop will be the worlds classified of course ...

carb parts - cbperformance.com

get the weber rebuild book while you're there.

Not that I know what I'm talking about but, shouldn't those who do question if he has a cam in the engine to handle the duals? Point being before you start the conversion you may find that the engine will need a lot more work then just cleaning the carbs up and bolting them on. Enjoy what you currently have and drive it, don't rush into possibly having to drop the engine and cut it open.

Anything will be better than the boat anchor single carb he has right now. With or without a good cam.

.....Welcome

As far as the engine goes .. I am unsure of the cam .. it supposedly was rebuilt when they went to the single carb , no paper work available .. or anchor on the top but I have no info on that and the guy I got the car from had no idea .. are there was to tell with out cracking the case ??

I am a sponge for knowledge and know I am in the right spot for advice on this car .. Thanks to all of you who have chimed in .. Its all appreciated and I am the type to ask before I do and try to keep the urge down to do something just because it looks cool ..

Thanks as always

and again very glad I was directed here .. great place .. great people and great advice

Steve

pull valve covers and measure cam lift with a dial indicator, and measure duration with a degree wheel.....

look down from the top of one of the barrels. under the pump jet (#16) you should see a number on the top edge of the 'choke' (#12 on the parts diagram). for stock 40s it's prob 28. in good working order the webers should provide a step up in performance over the single setup. look for a set of CB tall manifolds and a set of NEW head appropriate stock FI intake runner to head gaskets. figure out what style of fuel pump (rotary vs facet) is currently on your car.

k

I think you are safe removing the chokes...I have dual 40s on my 2.0l daily driver and they sputter a bit on cold mornings but are fine within a couple minutes of driving...