hey guys,

i have a 2.0 euro piston'd, weber 44'd engine with a Moderate - big cam.
so much so that stock 44's work very well (dead on jetting - off the shelf) IIRC i was told that the advance from my 050 dizzy wasnt optimum for my cam. my engine wil cruise all day long like stock but is a Beast 2500 to 6000. but mildly hesitate when it comes off idle circuit to mains
when you jump on it. (explained to me that its the difference in vacuum when the powerband comes on, kinda fakes out the webers)

im contemplating a mallory dizzy....
what should the static and full advance timing be set to? (mallory is adjustable)
also, the unilite optical pickup w/o vac advance - will it still generate a useable tach signal?

thanks dudes,
Aaron

Jake says 12 & 28 for the mallory with the grey springs

Bernie

so i should buy the dizzy with the GREY springs? and set timing at idle to 12 btdc and 28 for full at advance at what rpm?

Hi,

Look here. Unilite timing

I'm using the vacum advance model. I had to reindex the drive gear. You'll need to to the cooling tin to make it fit. In retro spec, I'd probably get the whole spring kit instead of the grey/grey. You get tools to adjust the advance limit, so you can tinker. May need new wires, the cap is huge.

Carlos

From RAT

"dizzy model#4554101

The TIV default (safe) settings should be 28-32 degrees full timing (unless your engine is a low CR misconfigured beast, then it may want 40 degrees) and set up initial at 11 degrees. Install a pair of Grey springs, and go from there"

who has the mallorys w/o the vaccum port in stock, for sale?

kevin

Look HERE

Not sure if in stock or not.....start at $149.95 if you want single points type

Ive got the vac adv unit. I have no idea how to change the springs. I'm almost afraid to try it. It'll still be awile till I fire it up, so maybe by then you'll have it figgered out.

bruce, dave hunt tried to get the no vac unit from aircooled. not in stock at the time. i tried to contact customer service yest via email to see if they were stocking them yet. no luck doing that either. i was hoping for the optical pickup option. i wonder what r.a.t. is using for spark these days.

krvin

Any reason you couldn't use the vac unit, but just not hook up the vac?

I got all my Mallory including the mechanical Dizzy and spring kit from Sam at century including fuel pump, regulator, ignition, etc.

I don't know how but he has more of their stuff than anyone.

http://www.centuryperformance.com/

dr

someone please correct me if i'm mistaken. iirc, the engine tin requires some modification with the vaccum pot . if i could get one i would spring for the optical pickup. add in a compufire or a pertronix to a NEW 009 or 005 and it's not that much more money.

kevin

i see century has a phone #. i will call them monday and try to get some info. their prices are about the same as aircooled.

kevin

Hi,

The size of the cap is much larger than stock, so you have to bang out the tin to get it to fit. If you use the vacuum distributor, you'll have to reindex the distributor drive gear one or two teeth so that the canister doesn't hit the breather tower. I made my own plug wires and didn't compare the stock wires, so I'm not certain that the stock wires will reach. I'll try to check that later today.

Carlos

anything unique to crimping plug wire ends?

I need to install 2 90deg terminals on my coil leads. The crimp end looks alot different from a normal electical connector.

dr

Get the screw style - not the crimp style - make life easier. Used to be RAJA clips as I remember.

It is big. I had to bang out the tin to the left. I'm hoping that the cooling flap still moves freely. It was very close.

Slits-How do you re-index it as this is a vac adv unit??

I need to install 2 90deg terminals on my coil leads. The crimp end looks alot different from a normal electical connector.

I have a die. I used MSD VW wires and their covers for the plug hole. Very tight, and won't fit one of the location. I won't be using the MSD product again. Too much trouble.

Carlos

Place the engine at TDC #1. Remove the dizzy. I can't remember the size bolt that you can "screw" into the center of the dizzy drive gear, but screw it in (or any other way you can pull the dizzy drive gear up) and rotate it counterclockwise. Look at the relation of the larger and smaller part of the circle on the dizzy drive gear (drive socket cuts the circle) and get it into a postion that the dizzy vac advance will clear what you need to and reseat the dizzy drive gear. Hopefully, if there are shims on the bottom of the gear they won't fall off into the case.

Alternatively - if the Mallory is like the stock dizzy, there is no stop on the rotation (except for the vac advance hitting shit) - you can turn it 360 degrees. If you set the engine at TDC #1 as before, and mark the dizzy cap pole that is #1 and the position the rotor is pointing to on the case of the motor Then just rotate the dizzy (counter clockwise) until the vac is in the position you want (you can even remove the vac advance if you have to - and them put it back on after you establish the realtionship). The pole that is nearest the mark you made on the case is the new #1 now. Unplug the wires from the dizzy cap and plug #1 lead into it. Follow the firing order with the rest in a clockwise rotation. This method saves pulling the dizzy gear.

Hope this helps. I can visualize it and hope it translates.

PS: Make sure those cooling flaps rotate!!!!! Or at least stick them in the open position. Remember, the dizzy isn't a brain and doesn't care where #1 is located as long as the rest of the leads follow in firing sequence. The marks that the factory put on the dizzy, etc are for reference only