Front toe zero
Front Camber 2.1 degrees negative
Front Caster 5.5 Degrees
Rear toe 1/8 in
Rear Camber 2.0 degrees negative.

Can be a bit squirrelly on odd pavement.

I ran it with 1/8 out on the front for a while, scared my wife to death, os I backed off a bit.

Oh I run "R" rubber think BFG Rivals, RE-71-R etc... Even with these setting tread wear is pretty good. Rocks into the top of the fenders not good You can glue in material to help with the issue. I would like to run a set of fender liners, but would need to make custom ones due to the flares.

Cool! Thank you!
Anybody else?

1.25-1.5 front 1.5 -1.75 rear ..start conservative...when you get aggressive you will know when you need more ...

Cool! Thank you!

Jamie Rust! Good chatting with you on FB!

Ok! Dyno tune is as far as they can take it.
320 Torque at 2900 RPM drops to 280 after 3k RpM)
280 HP at 5500 RPM.
Next x alignment and sort out fuel pump issue.

Back from alignment. Everything is roughed in.
Time to get mirrors, seatbelts and a temp plate to road test...

Awesome progress! 280Whp is SOLID!

We'll need a running video!

You know this is a really nice modified 914. Your work looks top notch. Sounds killer as well.

Bob B

Once I sort out my fuel pump issue and she is running smooth again, I will get a video!

3 days at alignment with specifics provided and this is what I get back.
Any ideas on the passenger rear? The toe in was the most they could get.

right rear is good left rear ??
https://robrobinette.com/ConvertToeInchesToDegrees.htm

I will check on the calculations when I get home!

Confirm that the rear tires are centered on the chassis. I had the PorSTI aligned at a "hot rod" shop that did not understand the suspension and had the rear shifted to one side with similar results.

After much fussing a quick measurement from the wheels to the chassis revealed the

First street drive today. About a half mile. Well behaved at 1/4 throttle.
Next x finish mirror backing plates and install mirrors
Install Seatbelts.

Got to love firsts drives

First upgrade.
Shifting mechanism. Out with the old!

In with the new!
Zero decibel motorsports.
Geometry now looks much better.

Looking forward to your comparison report.

Did you reuse the cables from the cold water kit or did you get new ones?

I will report on this once it stops raining!

I got new cables. I was going to reuse my old ones till I realized that one was binding and had been crushed. Now I have to build a plate for my shifter to anchor the new style cables on. Oh well...

Where did you get them and P/N or length?

omg rain in san deigo ,,the horror..

Right?
In Chris’s neighborhood they had flooding, then a water main broke. In fixing that, they hit a gas line... in fixing that, they knocked out a power line.

As far as the cables (since I changed them out) I soureced the from West marine.

Seastar Solutions Teleflex 4300 series cables part numbers CCX43008 (8ft) or TELCCX43007 (7ft).

If you get the CCX4330(length) that is the upgraded cable. Smaller radius bends. I went with the 8footer as I wanted to avoid my exhaust a little bit more.
You can probably order straight from seastar.

You will have to dig to find the bulkhead to bulkhead cables that Ian used.
I guess I should find one more and find my old shifting mech a new home.

hopefully Chris H was up in LA buying wheels...I wanna see Angela do a power pass in that 914...

Hehe! Leave it to Chris to be out of town when North Park goes South!
Oh, you will. She was bugging me about it Sunday morning!

Damn!!

For Ian’s shifter the replacement part idor the 7ft cable is:
https://midwestcontrol.com/shop/40-084-BH-BH-3-MSF-4-QD250

New pan back from powder coating!
New Wireing harness and computer being sorted out by Jeff R.
The EMS stinger was top binary and fought with altitudes.
Out with V1 shortened pan and in with V2!

& its Blue!

I think you've got a problem with your linkage.


I mention it because your photo shows exactly the kind of mounting that I did with the ZeroDB linkage that was incorrect.

The little arm that mounts to the transmission output shaft should *not* be attached at the existing hole in the linkage. It needs to be mounted as close to the taper as possible, with the goal (and heres the important part) of the linkage being as squared up (i.e. 90-degree angles everywhere) as possible when the transmission is in neutral.

If the arm is mounted at the stock hole in the transmission output shaft, the angles are not 90, and the shift pattern at the shifter will feel not like an |-|-|, but much more like: |-\-/ because of the bad geometry.

On my race-car, the bad geo at the shifter resulted in 2 (!!!) mis-shifts at the track. I ultimately found the bad geometry, drilled a new hole in the output shaft, and sternly suggested to ZeroDB to send instructions with their kit.

Very best,
Mat

Click to view attachment

Thank you Matt!
I was told after the fact what needed to be done. I will be correcting this when I pull the transmission (probably next week). Need better gearing for the race track that is so cal.

Transmission geometry fixed.
Transmission back on motor and unit back in car.
Unboxed the new turbo. Oh boy! So pretty!

Had some clearance issues with this pan due to the cradle. Had to go with a shortened pan (but 1/2 inch deeper than my previous pan).

Project sure has come a long way, looks great!

Glad to see you back at it

@effutuo101
OK Chis whats going on..?
Are you just so busy driving that beast that you you've left us all hanging?

Unfortunately not yet. I have to wire in the new computer and measure for 930 axles. Had a few home projects take priority during the hot months. So, back to it now that the weather is cooling down.
How have you been?