I need to know the bolt diameter for the rear shock bolts. Anybody have that tidbit on the top of their head?

Not the head/wrench size, the actual bolt shaft.

Thanks!

Porsche calls it not a bolt but a 'pin' so they don't show specs...

the nut that retains it is M18x1,5 - if that helps ...

pin - 914.333.565.01
nut - 900.078.007.02

That does help, thanks Rich (doh, I completely forgot about the parts manuals & PET I have in the garage).

The reason I asked is I got some spiffy tow tie-downs that bolt to the rear shock lowers but they were made for 9-elebens and apparently the 914's bolt is a bit stouter (i.e. the hole is too small.) I had nothing handy to measure either, as my car isn't here.

If you are talking about the "pins" and nut that attach the bottom of the shock to the trailing arm...I've got an extra pair (non sway bar ones) that I'm not using if yours are no good.

Well...that 'splains it...the holes in the aforementioned tie downs are 16mm.

My last car came with non OEM bolts and nuts.

M18-130.

Chris,
are you going to enlarge the hole or scrap the idea.
I was just thinking of those yesterday as we loaded a swb 911 onto a trailer yesterday.

I haven't thought of a simple way to enlarge the hole with the tools I have available (hand drill or die grinder are about my only options). A drill press w/ a 3/4" bit would probably be the ticket iff'n I had one. I haven't even seen a 3/4" regular bit for a hand drill locally.

I'd think a local machine shop could do it pretty cheap.....i'll open 'em up for you if don't mind paying the shipping...........

did you hook up with Ira??

18mm is a gnat's whisker from 5/8" ... i've had very good results with a UniBit, which come in several sizes. the big ones are expensive - but they're so darned useful ...

if you have a good vise to clamp the parts, i think you could get through aluminum okay with a 3/8" drillmotor. i've even used them in my cordless drill. there are large bits with necked-down shanks, but you're probably right - 3/8" is probably pushing it for 3/4" - i think i need to break out the 1/2" chuck air drill when i'm doing anything that big. but i'm pretty sure you can get to 5/8" with a 3/8" shank, UniBit or no ...

(Harbor Freight has UniBits - and cheap 1/2" chuck air drills ...)

http://www.performanceproducts.com/Product...=20&partnumber=

Performance Products has these....a bit pricey, but I asked Dave at GPR if he can source them for a better price.

Pic....replaces ONE lugnut while on trailer....

why not just lathe the pin down?

considering that he does not own a drill press, what are the odds that he's own a metal lathe?????

also try Enco (use-enco.com) for tools and supplies, good prices and normally better quality than HF

luckly the price of Uni-bits (and clones) have come down some, I guess for a while they had such a strong patent that no one else was trying to make them.....

the 356 goodie store has those for about $99 don't they?

Well I do have a 1/2 electric (corded) drill and a vise too; geez, I'm not THAT tool-impaired. :finger2:

I'll go find a Unibit or similar implement, and if I farg these pieces up then I'll go for some welded tie-down bungs.

For whatever reason the lug nut/bolt type of deals never turned me on. The last thing I usually want to do after a long day at the track before a long drive home, is to bust out the tools (again).

Mike - yep I did get the bearings from Ira at the GAF. They might make it on the car this week and I'll be sure to report the results. I'm also switching to a SRP front swaybar.