2.0 motor questions. The motor not been started for about 6 months:

1. When I pulled off the oil filler neck (see picture) the inside was crusted with brown crusty ?rust? I took a small scraper and cleaned out the cap too,,,it was crusted in the center...and you can see it on the bottom of the filler neck.

Water vapor or oil sudsing?? Thinking new oil, filter and after about 500 miles another oil change?? What U think I should do ?

2. Is there a rubber gasket inside the oil filler cap or just get a new cap?

3. The bellows are missing and cooling flaps are wide open. Texas temps for the next 60 days are in the 60-80's and then 90-100's until September. Is it OK to leave the flaps open for now?

4. Added new rubber motor mounts, and can't find a torque for the long shaft through the support bar. It seems like when tightening, it starts to compress the motor mount at about 25lb torque?? Suggestions on torque for this. Found the one to the case but not on the through bolts on the support bar.

5. Extra Breather tube from the tin, next to #2 spark plug...not the lower one for a breather hose. What goes here?

6. Running carbs..is it ok to punch out the PCV in the filler neck, or keep it like it is?

7. Inspection plug at the back of the case, looking into the back of the flywheel. What's this for??

Thanks for the hellp!

Anybody here know any experts?

Well, I am certainly no expert because I can only answer one. #5 is part of the gas evap charcoal system.
Tom

1. That just looks like solidified oil vapor from a motor that has been run for a very long time. I saw that on a 1.7L type 4 that had never been torn apart... That's my best guess. I'd clean it off, put on a new cork gasket, and call it a day.

2. Oil fill cap looks fine to me. Looks exactly like mine, with no leaks. IIRC, 2.0L fill caps do not have rubber seals like L-Jet oil fill caps do

3. As long as the cooling flaps are in their places, it will be no issue to run the engine without the bellows installed. The bellows close those flaps to facilitate quicker warm-ups. they should open to the "fail-safe" position, assuming they are still spring loaded.

4. Not sure on exact torque value.. I made mine good and tight, and nothing's come lose after 12,000 miles

5. Part of the charcoal canister recirculation system. It's an outlet for cooling air, Plug it.

6. I gutted mine, with no ill affects on crankcase ventilation. allows for a more passive crankcase ventilation cycle. Jake or someone of the like will have to explain why exactly...

7. No clue what that whole is for...

No sure what hole is really for, but I use it to lock the flywheel when loosening our tightening the flywheel and clutch. There is a small hole in the flywheel that corresponds with it that I put a screwdriver thru.