I am taking my 75, 2.0 back to its original L97 Ancona Blue. Paint stripping and scraping all the old coats of paint off.
I have been wiping the finished surface down with mineral turps and then buffing it clean with a 3M buffer pad before spraying with an etch primer.
When it is all stripped I will take it to the local painter to be sprayed.
Question. Is there something better i should be doing to the metal before i etch prime it, that will stop any rusting.
When I did my fuel tank with POR15 i was impressed with the rust converter i used there-maybe I should try using that before I etch prime.
Are there any painters out there who can recommend a good way to stop rusting?
Thanks
Richard

I don't think POR even recommends using their product over clean metal. I've used it a few times. It leaves a glossy finish which would need to be sanded before adding any top coats.

That's what I would do. Self etch primer each panel as you finish stripping.

I'm going to paint mine myself. So then I'll wipe the self etching primer off with lacquer thinner.
Do whatever body work needs to be done. Then seam seal and epoxy primer the sections as I finish them up.

Some sections will get some POR 15. But they will then get some POR 15 primer. Then put epoxy primer over that.

Once you strip it to metal, run a da with 40 grit over the entire panel til
you can see it shiny with a rough feel to it, then do the same with 80 grit
to clean the 40 grit scratches out, then 150 grit to remove the 80 grit scratches
wipe down real good and spray your etch primer about 2 to 3 light coats. I did this
prior to any bodywork, then used a black rattle can to guide coat it blocking it
with 150 to find the high and low spots to hammer & dolly the panel smooth. Sanded all back off with
80, creamed the entire panel with filler, blocked it with 40 to 80 to 150 , re-etched
the bare metal areas, scuffed that with scotchbrite. Then put 4 coats of 2 part
primer on it. Try to keep any and all waxes or anything else that can contaminate
the metal. Good luck !!!!

The question is to some extent determined by what your painter wants to find underneath. I really really like DP-40LF and other epoxy primer sealer as the base coat. I have a few reasons. First unlike many paints it is waterproof. Second it adheres to things very very well - not grease though. It bridges small (very small) rust imperfections like tiny pits and seals them up. Also it is a better choice than etching primer if you have sections where you decide not to remove all of the paint - that is the sealer function.

I have a marine reef aquarium and I built a steel frame to go over it for the lighting. Salt creep, moist air, and 90 degree F all day. Rust free for years with no signs of quitting yet. Oh and UV illumination too.

The downside is that the stuff needs to be mixed up with an activator, and it is toxic. Still the pot life is long. I doubt it has to be the PPG stuff, but that is what I work with. It is expensive!

Thanks guys. Looks like I am sort of on the right track. I have been real careful not to touch the bare metal. The painter said not to leave anything on the panels-like old filler and paint, even if I had to dig it out.
I am a bit disappointed in some ways as the car has obviously had a good front end smack. Both fenders have some pretty serious ripples around the indicator lights and on top which suggest that iey have been buckled back.
The fenders have, sort of, been beaten out and filler used to fair it all up . I had sort of hoped that I could do this with a minimum of filler. Probably not realistic.
I seem to have a small amount of rust at the top rear join where the fender joins the panel that runs across under the windscreen. Apart from that there is no rust anywhere else so thankful for that.

Will post some pics when I send it off to the painter and then after as well.
Thanks again.