Hey all, I tried so hard not to ask this question but finaly broke down. I am currently in the process of getting a 2.0L with tail-shifter tranny ready to put in the car. It looks like it is going to be a while before it is ready and I want to drive the car some. Here is the skinny:

1971 1.7L, FI, tail-shifter. Engine runs clutch won't disengage.

There is tension on the clutch pedal when depressed, and the fork moves at the trans. I have tried adjusting, and with the adjustment all the way and clutch is still engaged.

Could it be the throw-out bearing?

I know I should just drop the trans and take a look, just wandering with all the wisdom here if anybody has some ideas for me.

This happened to me a while ago. Assuming the release mechanism is ok you will likely find that the clutch disc is stuck to the flywheel. Put it in 3rd gear with the engine switched off, get in the car, depress the clutch and have a few frineds rock it back and forth. You will know when it unsticks.

See the thread today's date about flywheel bolts

2-OH!

Have read the thread, can't figure out how it applies.

When you pull the transaxle off you need to look at the nylon pivot ball bushing. It may look like you are moving the throw out bearing but actually just taking up the slop from the mashed bushing. You are losing the mechanical advantage of leverage and travel.

Had a friend that had the same problem only with a MG midget. Car would start but the clutch was rusted to the flywheel & pressure plate pretty bad. Luckly he had a long (about a 150ft.) down hill drive way. Told him to put it in first gear keep his foot on the clutch. Then turn the on the key & start it as I pushed him down the hill till the car started. Then when the car starts & runs accelerate & decelerate hard & fast (don't forget to keep your foot on the clutch petal all the way depressed). Took about 100ft. & the clutch broke free.
Like I said he did this in his drive way, I would'nt recomend doing this out on the streets.

Good luck
Ralph

If the flywheel is worn enough and been resurfaced (incorrectly) enough, it will eventually cause the pressure plate springs to hit the top of the bolts, thus grinding them off and eventually preventing the clutch from disengaging/engaging...

At least that's what happend on my car...Had to replace the disk, plate, flywheel, bolts, etc...

2-OH!

Ok 2-OH I thougth that is what you might be getting at but didn't wnat to go there. Looks like I will just yank the whole thing out of the car and see what I am dealing with. Gotta do it anyway to put the 2.0L in but thought I might get some driving time in since I got the 1.7L running.

Thanks for the tips everyone.

Sounds like the clutch disc is rusted to the flywheel for sure. I had this happen on two cars. The 72, the Po did the rock back and forth method, and on the way home from buying the car, the disc exploded. So you take your chances with that method. The other car, I pulled the tranny out recently and saw it first hand, it's not pretty, Lot's of rust to ruin the clutch disc, and the flywheel will probably need to be resurfaced if there is enough metal left on it. Good luck, but it sounds like you could easily be headed toward's a new clutch.
Eric

Finally got a chance to pull the transmission and see what the problem was. Turns out Joe gets the prize (not sure what that is but I'll let ya know when I figure it out) bad pivot ball bushing. It was totaly worn through where the very end of the ball would be, basicaly losing all the leverage.

Now all I have to due is a little fine tuning to the engine and I will be able to drive it while I work on the 2.0L.

Time to crack a cold one and chill with the kids.