The WRX914 has a battery drain. Pulled all fuses, relays, grounds. No change.
I ended up at the generator?
I pulled the two big white wires off (coming from the battery) and removed the plug with two small wires. The pole that the two big wires went to has continuity to ground.
Is this telling me that the $200 generator is bad?

your generator may have turned itself into a motor. have you checked the voltage regulator?

Generator is what the manual calls it.
Alternator / generator, am I correct in thinking there is no regulator to be checked on the WRX charging system?

Best I can tell, the system is charging fine but will drain over night.
When alternators go bad, I think of them just not charging anymore?

I just checked the truck and there is no continuity through the alternator like the WRX.

Last week I blew some fuses and lost my head light motors for some unknown reason. They all work now.

were they blown, or did they blow when you pulled on the switch?

is your alternator fairly new? or is its life unknown?

were they blown, or did they blow when you pulled on the switch?

Well, I took it down to Pepboys and they tested the alternator. Said it was bad.
Not one to trust their test I took it to O'Rielys, they said the same.
On the 2nd test I was able to get a detailed report of what failed, an overcharging regulator.
I think it's time to throw some money at it.
Thanks for the help.

Well, I took it down to Pepboys and they tested the alternator. Said it was bad.
Not one to trust their test I took it to O'Rielys, they said the same.
On the 2nd test I was able to get a detailed report of what failed, an overcharging regulator.
I think it's time to throw some money at it.
Thanks for the help.

what a nightmare bro.....

so your gonna reinstall the og one?

With no good indication it's bad. It's going back in.
Taking it apart gave me a chance to put a gloss coat on the CF intake and paint some brackets.
I still don't understand how I could see continuity one way, flip the leads and see an open circuit the other way?
I will keep digging as I go...

it may be going thru the diode from + to - but the diode will prevent it from - to +.

Your testing the alternator with on ohmmeter sounds correct. Diodes will read one way, not the other if they are good. Although this is not a test that proves them good all of the time. They sometimes can break down under load.
Here is what I would do. Charge up the battery , hook everything up like it should be and test the battery voltage when off and when running. Off should be same voltage as battery voltage after charging, on and running should be 13 - 14 volts. If this is good, alternator is probably OK.
Now ( step 1), disconnect the 4 red wires at the + battery terminal and leave overnight. If the battery is good it means you have a drain in your power to the key switch, fuse panel under dash, or relay board or alternator. If battery is still bad, ( step 2) disconnect the neg battery post, charge it up and leave overnight. If battery is bad then, you have a bad battery.
If after step 2 the battery is OK, then disconnect the large alternator lead at the starter and insulate it, hook up the battery neg and positive terminals and let it set overnight. If battery now is bad, you have something causing a current draw in the alternator.
Hope this helps get you through this.
Tom

The load I read on the multimeter with everything hooked up and with the dial on Rx10, the needle reads 5. I don't know, is that a lot?
Disconnect the alternator and it reads about 30.

Where are you taking this reading? It is 50 ohms and 300 ohms Rx10, so multiply the reading by 10. Quite a difference, but I need to know where and what leads were where. Black lead to ground, red lead to ?. Do this reading with the neg. battery cable disconnected. With everything off, this reading should be high as in lots of ohms. The more the better. 50 ohms to ground will give you 240 miliamps ( 12 volts/50 ohms=0.24 amps) 300 gives you 12/300=0.04 amps). Do you have a clock hooked up? A clock should not run the battery down, however it is good to know when taking readings.
Sounds like maybe you have a drain in the alternator. Is it very dirty? Oil and dirt can combine to form resistance and coat parts in the alternator until you get a path for current to flow, however small.
Tomorrow should give you some answers,
Tom

I just took readings on mine and I am reading in the megohms with the negative disconnected and everything else hooked up.
Since you are saying you have a lot of the WRX electrics installed, then that is where I would look for the drain on the battery. Sorry I can't help there, no Subaru experience. How are the Subie electrics getting power? Isolate the power to them and take new readings. Lower ohms to ground readings with things off = more current when sitting overnight. In a perfect electrical/electronic system that would be 0 amps. Theoretically possible, but not practical. You will always have a very small current.
By the way, do you get a small spark when hooking up the battery? That is a good indication that you have something drawing current.
Tom

Just an update.
Slow to update because my Modem is acting up like my car was.

The car sat for days with every thing hooked up but a door is off and the door ajar light has been on all that time. Car started with out a problem yesterday.
I look forward to get this body work on the door completed and start driving again.

I am hoping it fixed its self because I didn't do anything.
And hope I am not speaking too soon.

Now, I wish my modem and lawnmower would follow the cars example.