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FourBlades
Thinking about how to mount the fuel cell in my IMSA 914 so it will comply with most vintage, SCCA, and PCA rules.

The original cell was mounted in a square of angle iron that was welded very securely to the floor of the front trunk. It was welded to some 1/8" thick plates welded to the trunk pan and was really hard to cut out even though everything was rusted badly.

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At the top the cell was held on by angle iron bolted to the trunk bulkhead through the lip of the cell. It was also held on at the front using some small steel straps. I think you need more straps going all the way around the cell now.

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I was thinking of making a similar rectangular frame from 1/8 x 1" angle iron and welding that to plates welded to the trunk using some stand offs to raise the tank high enough to clear the oil cooler shroud. Then going vertically around the tank with some steel straps and securing the rear of the cell to the bulkhead.

I was going to leave enough room in the frame to line it with some rubber gasket material to prevent direct metal contact, good idea or not?

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I could tie it into the front trunk tubes but that does not seem like the right thing to do. I also want to make sure all the oil and fuel stuff can be removed, serviced and replaced before I go welding crazy. I may have to make a 2 piece oil cooler shroud to make it removable with the front trunk cross bar.

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I can really use some help from the community on this. chowtime.gif

Thanks...John





McMark
I don't have any insight on the fuel cell. sad.gif

Couple of thoughts on the oil cooler thought...

Can you lower the bar that goes over the cooler? Put it as low as possible and modify the cooler shroud?

And along that vein, are you going to have enough room for the oil cooler fittings?
ChrisFoley
How about two angle irons, spanning between the forward upright tubes and the bulkhead. Drill through holes for the cover bolts and hang the fuel cell on the end flanges. Then add an upright reinforcement from each angle iron down to the horizontal tubes, just ahead of the fuel cell.
That would be sturdy enough.
FourBlades
QUOTE
I don't have any insight on the fuel cell. sad.gif

Couple of thoughts on the oil cooler thought...

Can you lower the bar that goes over the cooler? Put it as low as possible and modify the cooler shroud?

The shroud is a very tight fit to the top of the cooler. There is no room under the shroud for the bar. I think the original owners would have bent something up from aluminum sheet so I may think about doing that.

QUOTE
And along that vein, are you going to have enough room for the oil cooler fittings?

This had me puzzled for a while as well. Straight fittings work but lead to a big bend in the oil lines. 90s hit the tubes. I realized the 45 will clear and will allow good routing to the thermostat. I ordered some 45s this week so I will see if they do fit soon.
FourBlades
QUOTE
How about two angle irons, spanning between the forward upright tubes and the bulkhead. Drill through holes for the cover bolts and hang the fuel cell on the end flanges. Then add an upright reinforcement from each angle iron down to the horizontal tubes, just ahead of the fuel cell.
That would be sturdy enough.

I never thought of that approach, it sounds like it would work.

Do any of the current series state clearly what is required in mounting a fuel cell or is it vaguely worded? I would hate to get it all nicely put together only to find out the straps have to be 2" and I used 1.5".
stugray
Here is mine:

IPB Image

It has 1"X1" Aluminum rails underneath and ~2" Strap holding it to the tub.

Stu
ChrisFoley
QUOTE(FourBlades @ Mar 27 2012, 09:17 PM) *

Do any of the current series state clearly what is required in mounting a fuel cell or is it vaguely worded? I would hate to get it all nicely put together only to find out the straps have to be 2" and I used 1.5".

All the standards I've read pertain to the bladder, container and location. There are no standards or restrictions regarding mounting design.
FourBlades

OK, thanks Chris, that was what I was worried about.

Clearly the car will not pass tech if the fuel cell does not look securely fixed into place. I just wanted to make sure there were no specific does and don't I could fall afoul of.

I think I will try to do it similar to how the POs did it, with more strapping all the way around the tank to secure it in place.

John
pcar916
Mine is a 15 gallon cell and, with this large oil cooler there it wouldn't fit into the front compartment. So I had to cut a slot into the middle bulkhead for the top edge of the cell to slip underneath.

There is a single frame (red in these pictures) for both the cell and the oil cooler with the same criteria you had about getting them out in a hurry. The frame and lower ducting is riveted into the trunk but everything above that is removable in a hurry. I have to remove the exit duct with two screws and two toggles. Then unbolt two bolts to remove the front strap and the cell out slips out forward... takes 8 minutes max and I don't have to remove the oil cooler.

The cell is held in with a tab at the back edge and a strap across the front that's bolted onto the divider found in late cars. I think these pix tell the story.

The last pic shows the driver's side of the front strap and both the cooler duct fasteners on that side as well.
Good luck!
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FourBlades
QUOTE(stugray @ Mar 27 2012, 07:38 PM) *

Here is mine:

IPB Image

It has 1"X1" Aluminum rails underneath and ~2" Strap holding it to the tub.

Stu


Thanks Stu, that is a lot like what I am thinking of with the straps.

John
FourBlades
QUOTE(pcar916 @ Mar 28 2012, 02:20 PM) *

Mine is a 15 gallon cell and, with this large oil cooler there it wouldn't fit into the front compartment. So I had to cut a slot into the middle bulkhead for the top edge of the cell to slip underneath.

There is a single frame (red in these pictures) for both the cell and the oil cooler with the same criteria you had about getting them out in a hurry. The frame and lower ducting is riveted into the trunk but everything above that is removable in a hurry. I have to remove the exit duct with two screws and two toggles. Then unbolt two bolts to remove the front strap and the cell out slips out forward... takes 8 minutes max and I don't have to remove the oil cooler.

The cell is held in with a tab at the back edge and a strap across the front that's bolted onto the divider found in late cars. I think these pix tell the story.

The last pic shows the driver's side of the front strap and both the cooler duct fasteners on that side as well.
Good luck!


That is a very slick setup Ron!

It is easy to forget that things have to be serviced and do something that makes it really hard.

John


URY914
This is from Sebring SVRA a few weeks ago. Submitted for your viewing pleasure

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MikeSpraggi
QUOTE(URY914 @ Mar 28 2012, 03:49 PM) *

This is from Sebring SVRA a few weeks ago. Submitted for your viewing pleasure

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That's just plain ol' porn ........
carr914
QUOTE(MikeSpraggi @ Mar 29 2012, 09:32 PM) *

QUOTE(URY914 @ Mar 28 2012, 03:49 PM) *

This is from Sebring SVRA a few weeks ago. Submitted for your viewing pleasure

Click to view attachment


That's just plain ol' porn ........


You Ain't Kiddin. Just wondering why they added the Brake Duct ( Dryer Hose looking) vs just using that air-flow from the Oil Cooler?
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