QUOTE(porsche913b_sp @ Mar 28 2012, 07:32 PM)

So I read about the procedure, seems to cover a couple days and the left over chemicals to deal with. I wanted to hear from those members that have done it?
Is it too much of trouble and having to deal with it, did it come out ok, or are you pretty screwed if you dont follow the instructions exactly. Is there a shortcut maybe ?
Let me know your .02 cent
Thanks a bunch
Ted
Done it countless times w/different machines. Two hours from removal to completion. 24 hours to dry.
1. Don't use pro15. Use Red-kote. Ebay. $20 I've used both. port15 failed, RK: never.
2. Got rust? Use 1/10 solution of acid du-jour to clean it. (I like muratic)
3. Swish it around with some chain or big nuts and bolts. I tape the opening with heavy duct tape.
4. Neutralize acid solution with baking soda. Pour it into a bucket and dispose on your neighbors yard.
5. Wash tank with BS then detergent, then water.
6. Blow it out with some air from a compressor, shop vac or hair dryer.
7. Pour in half of a quart of acetone, swish that around and remove.
8. Pour in the other half of acetone. You can save that for cleaning brushes or getting oil off metal.
9. A little more air, and your ready.
10 set the tank upright. Remove everything including the fuel nipples, follow directions on can of Red Kote + pour in about a pint, swish it everywhere, drain the excess back into the original container.
11. Put a fan on it. 24 hours till usable
Two notes:
The most dangerous thing about M acid is breathing the vapors when you open the bottle, or getting some splashed in your eye when you pour it into dilution. Not if you are careful. Acetone is less harmful to humans than de-natured alcohol. It just smells worse.
If you use acid, you can't let the tank sit to air dry or it will flash with surface rust. You don't have to use acid, it's just the only way I know how to get all the rust off.