So I read about the procedure, seems to cover a couple days and the left over chemicals to deal with. I wanted to hear from those members that have done it?
Is it too much of trouble and having to deal with it, did it come out ok, or are you pretty screwed if you dont follow the instructions exactly. Is there a shortcut maybe ?

Let me know your .02 cent

Thanks a bunch

Ted

Yup, Did this las summer. Pretty easy, just follow the instructions.
One thing with the final sealer....it says to put a little water in the can to activate the remaining sealer component and let it react and toss it in the trash.
Just use a little water! or you'll get a volcano of reaction coming out of the can.

Other than that, it seems to be working fine.

SW

I did my tank about two months ago and the result was excellent.
I didn't have any flake or scale but decided to do it anyway as the bottom half of the tank was brown and rusty looking so it was a good opportunity while I had the car in bits anyway.
Definately read and follow the instructions.
The rust kill part is spectacular and very effective.
Two bits of advice.
Take time to make up an effective seal on the openings. I would make up a light metal or plastic cover using all the screws from the existing fittings so you get a really good seal. This helps to keep the whole job clean.
Don't get the grey stuff on your hands - it takes weeks to wear off.
Oh, also, try to find some big cardboard sheets to lay out to do the job on, or depending on weather do it outside.
PM me if you want any specific questions answered but the result looks very good if it's done right.

One other thing on drying. I used my wifes hair dryer. Make sure it can get a good flow through with not too much heat and also make sure the hair dryer doesn't overheat!

Done it countless times w/different machines. Two hours from removal to completion. 24 hours to dry.

1. Don't use pro15. Use Red-kote. Ebay. $20 I've used both. port15 failed, RK: never.
2. Got rust? Use 1/10 solution of acid du-jour to clean it. (I like muratic)
3. Swish it around with some chain or big nuts and bolts. I tape the opening with heavy duct tape.
4. Neutralize acid solution with baking soda. Pour it into a bucket and dispose on your neighbors yard.
5. Wash tank with BS then detergent, then water.
6. Blow it out with some air from a compressor, shop vac or hair dryer.
7. Pour in half of a quart of acetone, swish that around and remove.
8. Pour in the other half of acetone. You can save that for cleaning brushes or getting oil off metal.
9. A little more air, and your ready.
10 set the tank upright. Remove everything including the fuel nipples, follow directions on can of Red Kote + pour in about a pint, swish it everywhere, drain the excess back into the original container.
11. Put a fan on it. 24 hours till usable

Two notes:

The most dangerous thing about M acid is breathing the vapors when you open the bottle, or getting some splashed in your eye when you pour it into dilution. Not if you are careful. Acetone is less harmful to humans than de-natured alcohol. It just smells worse.

If you use acid, you can't let the tank sit to air dry or it will flash with surface rust. You don't have to use acid, it's just the only way I know how to get all the rust off.

I just took mine to a radiator shop and had it "boiled" out.

I also heard this stuff works pretty well. Although I haven't actually tried it. http://www.caswellplating.com/restoration-...ank-sealer.html

for a light rust, just clean the tank, and use it, and make sure you keep water out, if you have water issues, use a fuel dryer solution every know and then with a fill-up.

if you keep the watter and air away, the rust wont keep growing.

keeping the tank topped off helps prevent water introduction as does dry heated storage.

if the rust bothers you, have a radiator shop boil it out, then skip the sealer and keep the water out per above instruction.

think long term and think of what the problems you will have if the coating ever fails, 5,10,25 years from now.

I Used KBS products. Worked great

http://www.kbs-coatings.com/

http://www.kbs-coatings.com/tank-sealers.html

That's not practical advice.

Radiator shops are fine, but the OP concerned DIY.

No matter how you do it, removing rust leaves bare metal that's prone to flashing more rust unless it's coated with something.

"keep the tank full," while better than keeping the tank empty, doesn't prevent rust in a tank. There is plenty of moisture and oxygen available for rust to continue.

Thinking long term, I'm left to conclude that a little rust becomes a lot more rust 5,10,25 years from now.

This is just my thoughts and is in no way a recommendation.

I think this subject is kinda blown out of proportion. I've seen plenty of 35 year old tanks with little or no rust. This is from cars that sat outside in humid Okla for five years or more. Personally, I would not seal it rather than take a chance of it flaking and getting into my fuel system. There are just too many variables in the process.

I just did mine. Yes, it is a lot of work, but the result is very satisfactory. Check out the pictures on my build thread, starting on page 3.

I've used the Por-15 twice. No problems just a little messy. Chemicals left over will go back in container and dry for throwing away. Hair dryer works for circulation and drying.

Hey Ted, POR 15 worked well in my tank, just follow the instructions. I had several rust spots in the felt support areas that I welded up and the tank had some sediment in it as well.

It goes without saying to do the tank outside and wear a respirator.

I've used the tank for 7 years without an issue and I changed out my fuel filter several times just to make sure nothing came through afterwards, just to make sure, but I never saw anything.

Good luck!

I did a ton of digging to see which kits can resist today's type of fuel, etc. Heard equally good and bad things about por15. It was suggested that a 2 part epoxy rather than a 1 part (see below) was the way to go. This is what I went with.

Thanks for all the tips guys, i really appreciate all you inputs. I will ultimately have to weigh my options, so tempted to pay for it and be done with, but I dont have any shop in mind, and who is to say they will do it right.

Some rust and some do not. Makes me think it has more to do with the tank -- 60 year old tractors that sat out in the weather with clean tanks, and ten year old motorcycle tanks full of rust.

Nothing beats a clean tank, but I'm certain that whenever one sat so long the gas gelled and smells like lacquer it has to be lined. Also, it's remarkable how fast corrosion pinholes a tank. Rust also has a way of getting through fuel filters. If you see brown sediment in your filter bowl you should clean and line the fuel tank.

Whoever wrote that two part epoxy tank liners are best is probably right. Some companies make fuel tanks out of fiberglass. The epoxy kit is costly and epoxy is never very fun to work with.

I don't advocate P15 because the one time I coated a tank with that stuff it failed after 3 years. Could've been operator error, or not. I use Red-Kote 'cause every radiator shop in my vicinity does. It's also inexpensive and been around a long time.