Anyone using this setup for fuel pressure? or is there a better one?
Just don't want to waist my money.


Click to view attachment

Thanks
SW

How much does it cost?

I made my own. I just used parts from my propane kits.

If there is a market I can make them to sell pretty cheap.

There is a tap on the driver's side fuel rail, unless it is used to feed the Cold Start Valve. Remove 7mm screw, two hose clamps and a section of hose ... you're golden.

Oh, this is assuming you have an FI system.

Otherwise, you could purchase a cheap brass hose barb "T" and tie it into the fuel line prior to the Pressure Regulator. Gauge only needs to read 30 psig. Actually, any pressure gauge will work ... even the cheapies.

I installed one 5 years ago in-line with the CSV on my 1.8 FI L-Jet
If your engine should stop, a quick look at the fuel pressure gauge will tell you whether the problem is related to the fuel system. When the system goes down, pressure goes to zero; if the problem is not fuel system related,the pressure will read the normal running pressure - it slowly goes bak to zero.

It's only $65 shipped,not bad. I'm running the stock FI, is the best location on the hose to the CSV?

Thanks SW

I paid 25 bucks for one at the local hot rod shop. reads to 90lbs. oil filled.

I have the stock 2.0 FI also.

$65 is way too much! Save your money.

I can build and sell them for about $25 shipped to your door.
About $15 in parts, $5 for labor, and $5 for shipping (give or take)
All the parts needed I already get at a discount for my propane kits.

Matt, I have no problem building my own. I just. Don't want to do the trial and error thing. You're saying a propane gauge works fine. The brass T should be easy to find.

That's the reason I love this site!

Yes any Gauge should work. Retail on a gauge is about $10-$15, another $5-$8 in fittings.
Some work better the others though. I've bought cheaper ones that would stick or not work right. I get good ones from my supplier for $8.

Just use tape on the threads and make sure it's all tight. Check for leaks after install.
You should be able to build your own for $20-$25 and save $40!

Any gauge will work but if it ain't glycerine the vibration will kill it soon enough. I pulled one from my Harbor Freight FI kit and that entire kit was < $25 IIRC. For what it matters; a great degree of accuracy is not required of the gauge when diagnosing a failed fuel pump. It's either going to be spot on or way the hell off, as Jim alluded to. The pressure regulator is pretty much bullet proof. Set it and forget it. My 2 cents.

My pump just went out. Worked great when car is first started. After driving 5-10 miles the car would not take gas. It just cut out and fell straight on its face if gas pedal was pushed. The pump worked fine cold, but was not pumping after it was hot even though it was still running.

Heres a pic of the new pump I just installed 10 mins ago. I moved it up to the engine bay to make future repairs/ filter chages easier.

If that filter is the low-pressure carb filter that it looks like, it isn't doing you any favors. And you'll be even more unhappy when it bursts and dumps fuel everywhere.

--DD

ouch......

I'll get a new in the morning before i drive tomorrow.

Thanks Guys!

Those hose clamps are leaks waiting to happen too. Get some real ones. Its hard to tell from the pics, but it appears the plastic line that goes to the filter is the return line, and the one coming from the drivers side rail is connected to the supply line. If so, your fuel supply is coming from the line off the tank without the sock. Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but that the way it looks.

It's setup right. The hose going into the orginal plastic one you see is coming from the regulator. I tried to make sure to keep them in the right order above and below.
It comes up to filter - pump - gauge - fuel rails - reg. - return

Other then the niose of the pump being louder now it all fits pretty well.

Ok, I'm gonna take your word on that, but please replace those clamps. They will cut the hose, and we hate it when a 914 goes up in flames.

had the same setup on my l-jet for years with no problem

$65 sounds high. They sell for around $22 at summitracing

http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/V...s/?autoview=SKU

I hope the pump being so high up doesn't cause any problems. Usually the pump is down low to gravity feed. Up there the pump has to constantly pull the fuel up. It may work fine. It may cause problems with erratic pressure. It may have vapor lock issues. It may shorten the life of the pump.

True. I didn't think about that

Can I put it up front without changing out the tunnel lines?


PS.
Didn't mean to hijack ur thread Strudelwagon. But I thinnk you got ur answer. build your own for $20 and save $40!

When "starved" the in-line, rotary pumps will create vapor bubbles in the fuel (cavitation) that can migrate upstream to the filter. Pump gets loud.

"Starvation" is when the lift required exceeds the pump capacity. IIRC, gasoline has a lift ratio of 1.3 m per 0.1 bar. It doesn't take much "suction" to achieve enough lift for almost any in-car application.

The crappy clear filter is helpful to see if it works, e.g., whether the filter bowl gets filled with vapor and ultimately overcome the suction from the pump. I'm not sure how much pressure it's under, but those plastic filters do get melty and fragile over time and heat. There's an AC VW "rule of thumb" that says never install a filter in the engine bay for safety.

Per the OP, I have a 0-200 PSI pressure gauge from a water heater that cost $10, and has worked perfectly to check the FP. It's clamped to a 5/16" hose which I then clamp to the test nipple previously described. It's easy to install and remove, so I don't run it all the time. Why have one-more point of failure in an already "delicate" (i.e., rubber hosed) fuel system?

I was thinking the "vapor lock" talked about was from heat.

The filter being "pre" pump I figured it wouldn't have that much pressure. More of suction then pressure.

I bought a decent pump. Flow: 160LPH - Operating Pressure: 15-90 PSI
It moves the fuel fine.

I was trying to make it easier to work on in the future. Pulling the tank to check the pump seemed like a lot of work. But when thinking about it a pump should last many years so I guess its not something that needs to be worked on very often. And it would be quieter up there.

Also I was not sure if I could put it up front without changing out the tunnel lines and from what I read they are not very easy to change out.

What is" vapor lock?" I think its a catch-all term: Boiling gas in fuel lines, boiling gas in carburetor bowl, Elec. pump getting so hot it seize, something that creates back pressure in the lines.

There's some debate over benefit of pump relocation. Porsche did it last two years of 914 production. Many have experienced a no fuel condition in very hot conditions. I just put mine back where it was beneath the motor.

no prob Matt......just glad i could be part of stopping your car from being a CARBBQ.
SW

let me hijack then

What type of sealant do you put on the threads when you screw the gauge into the socket. Wouldnt want a leak there

Loctite 565 is fuel safe once it's cured.