I installed a small 6 in my car yesterday and I noticed the car has more positive camber to the rear wheels than before the conversion. Is there an adjustment for camber? Ive yet to put on the axels, might that straighten it out?

Kev

Check Chris Foley's site. He has Camber adjustment shims. I bought two sets to straighten mine out. You will need to get longer bolts too. wait until you get it rolling and bring it into an alignment shop.

You remove shims to create negitive camber.

Just the axles won't affect the camber. Putting weight on the wheels will.

The camber is changed by adding or removing shims between the outer trailing arm mount and the body. More shims mean more positive camber, less shimming (fewer or thinner shims) mean more negative camber.

--DD

Just to be clear, if the top of the tire tips in; that's an indication of positive camber?

Kev

Nope, thats negative camber.

Positive is like old vw baja bugs... (top of the tire, leans outward)

Great info, much appreciated! Last thing, should the car be set up neutral or biased positive or negative? I've got new shims but want to get it close so I can drive it to get it aligned.

Kev

It depends. If you are driving for street and longevity of tires, set it neutral. If you care less about the tires and want an aggressive street / AX / track stance, set it up for negative camber. On street and track I prefer the latter.

I would advise against a neutral or positive setup, even for a street driven car.
Our cars benefit from negative camber.

The max. you can get out of the stock setup is about -2 deg. in the rear. That would be running without any shims. However, for most street driven cars, this is too much.

I think the sweet spot for a street setup is somewhere between -0.5 and -1 degrees.

I have street tires on a lowered -6 for aggressive street driving. One side has -1.0 degree and the other has -1.8 degrees. Should I be moving towards -1.8 or -1.0 to even things out?

At alignment shop now!

-1.0

Looks like -1.4 now on both sides.

Ok, dealing with a shop that is willing but not knowledgable on the 914. The tech is saying that there is too much toe-in on the drivers side and that despite trying to pry the trailing arm pivot mount out, he can't get any less toe.

If he now concentrates just on the front, he says that the total alignment will still be off since their Hunter machine keys off the rear wheels as well.

Hmm. Either the tech hasn't loosened the bolts holding the outer pivot onto the chassis enough, or the trailing arm or chassis are bent.

--DD

during my polybronze bushing upgrade, one of my rear arms, i had to adjust the inner mount (hole) by filing one end longer and welding the other end to rebuild the proper dimension. i think i moved the hole almost 1/4 inch...all that to get 0 toe in.. i settled there. the other side was just fine. it may be possible that the jigiging and welding back in the day was not all that precise. running almost -2 camber on the rear. decent for autocross

It has been mentioned on Pelican these cars aren't very accurate from side to side which considering how older cars were made it makes sense ,my car for instance has even gaps both sides on the rear 16X7'' Fuches,so maybe I'am lucky ? I also have reasonable clearance with the tyres @ ride height.
I'am going for max negative camber and not to worried about tyre wear .
By the way this is a useful thread and good info here

Click to view attachment

I didn't read the whole thread.
The axles aren't in the car yet ?
Are your rear hubs and stub axles tightened ?
If not don't roll the car.
And don't judge alignment.