I'm going to look at a 1983 Porsche 944 non-turbo, 5 speed at noon. It has 95,XXX miles. Clear Title. Runs and drives. Could be fuses, intermittent relays on the radiation fans or thermostat not getting up to temp.

The work done:

Timing Belt, Pulley, throw-out bearing, distributor, alternator, clutch slave cylinder, radiator, speed sensor and starter, TPS and new vacuum hoses, new CV joints both, new head gasket, head machining done a by Factory trained mechanic, new driver's window, new plugs, and new rear axle.

Needs:

Battery

Near future:
Full belt, pulley(rollers), waterpump, thermostat, seals, front & rear hood shocks, front spoiler, front bumper, drivers door panel, plastic piece around the steering shaft, plug for windshield.

My Question is what do I need to look for and where do I need to look? What should I go ahead and replace immediately if I purchase it?

...keep a spare head close by, they tend to overheat if not careful...

The early Audi's used a similar head if I remember correctly, but it's been a while since I pulled one.

We checked the car over pretty carefully. Original Leather interior in supple condition, manual sunroof, fuse panel in the classic oops position.

The original color was Alaska Blue. Repainted '80s Porsche silver.

Then we had to buy it.

So we bought the car and will bring home later today even though it will run with a different battery. Some dumbass kid took the thing for a 45min run after it had been sitting for 3yrs and quote "it over heated a little".

The car is my Dad's Birthday present.




Little factoid: The 944 will cost less to fix and maintain then the 2003 Saab.

I think the most critical thing would be to find out really where the leak(s) is/are, and that ain't easy. Typical worst-case places that you can't easily see are the upper and lower rear balance shafts seals (and most expensive since it's hardest to get to).

I've got a 968 (later, but still very similar to the 944) which had those chronic problems, though now it's more power steering pump leaking. Oil tends to collect all over the starter which then picks up more grime and finally gives up the ghost (more expensive starter on the 968 than 944 though, due to higher compression).

Never let that timing belt get past 30k miles, unless you're planning on getting a new motor anyway or enjoy taking risks. (But that's probably an obvious statement)

Another thing is that changing the clutch is a PITA on the 944 I've been told. It's much simpler on the 968, as it turns out, thanks to upgrades the Porsche engineers/designers made between the 944 S2 and the 968.

I have noticed the 968 runs in the upper-normal range almost all the time in warm-to-hot (>90F) weather even on the highway, and definitely in town. I keep an eye on it, but I think that's just how the radiators are sized. Also in my case, it could be due (at least at highway speeds) to the fact that my car is missing the lower part of the front bumper and thus the air vane that is supposed to guide airflow across the radiator.

YMMV with a 944, so I'd say follow others' advice on that. Then again, the head on that 2.5L is a helluva lot cheaper than the head on a 968, I'd wager. Enjoy! They're fun cars, when they're running right!

Fun, but many little things that seem to always need fixing-i have a 87-924s

We have a Porsche factory trained mechanic who was on the Porsche Race in '70s in Tulsa and I dropped by his place. He asked me to show him the leak on a engine he had. It was the oil pan leaking.

We're going to replace the Belts, Water Pump, Pulley, Thermostat, Motor Mounts, Front Hood Shocks, Battery, do something to the worn out shift lever, Charge the AC, align it and drive. :driving-boy:

We do need a non-broken front spoiler + right brackets and manual sun roof parts. Will post a WTB ad later.

The 924s used Audi motors. The 944 used what was more or less half of a 928 motor. A bit less than more, but it was close.

If you really think that the 83 944 (first year in the US) will have fewer problems (on average) than a 2003 Saab, I think you may be overindulging in self-medication.

You have to disassemble the front suspension completely in order to replace the clutch; it appears as if the clutch was the first thing they started with when they built the car. Presumably the rear main seal requires a similar level of effort. Find the $$$ Porsche-only belt tensioning tool, or get in really good with your local Porsche specialist.

Expect that many mechanical repairs will cost more than the value of the car. The early ones really aren't worth that much $$, but the parts are still on the expensive side. (Think of it like an early 928, but less so.)

For all that, I know people who won't give theirs up for love nor money.

--DD

Picking up in the Morning.

Important Question: How the hell do you open the rear hatch open with the key missing? (Without breaking the Glass)

Important Question: How the hell do you open the sunroof?

If you have spare parts, please PM me.

----

Dave,

Let's have a nice long talk about Saab prices.

New Key $400 from dealer
Ignition module ~$300 ---You do not want this to die 9hrs from the nearest dealer/home
Plastic valve in Cooling system-Replace every 30,000 miles ~$60
Headlight Bulbs $65/each
Rotors $200 independent $400-600 dealer per front/per rear
(replace every 30-50,000 miles)
Filters $100

Let's not talk about belts, pulleys or any Turbo stuff.

Saab does not exist.

Had an '83 944. Was fun until the oil cooler seals leaked and got oil in the coolant. Decided I didn't want to put any more $$$$ into it so sold it.

Rear hatch - with the key had to turn and push the knob. Not sure if that is even possible without the key

If it is a manual sunroof, there are a couple latches at the rear. Undo those and it pops right out. Or you can position the latches to hold the rear up. Be sure the strap from roof panel is snapped in place

You climb into the back, from the seats, pull the carpet down on the very back, and you will see 2 long rods, turn the center where they are connected & push up. I can take pix tomorrow if you like. The sunroof is manual, 2 latches in the front, and 2 in the rear.. What parts are you needing???
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I didn't mention prices. I realize modern cars' parts can be out of this world. But the frequency of repair...

--DD

Dave , I love you man, but you are wrong. I have droped three trannies in the driveway on jackstands and one on a lift either for clutch or T.O.B. issues and can promise you these jobs can be done without dropping the front suspension. That said, it is still an 8 + hour job + parts to do a clutch in an n/a add 2-3 for a turbo
Unless you have soloid proof of the belts and water pump being done, plan on an additional 1600+ to get that done IMMEDIATELY. A broken belt in these cars can mean an easy 2500.00 + in repairs. Bels tend to wipe out valve trains in interference head cars

I also had a 1987 924S. The 924S motor is the same as the 944NA in a much lighter car. The 924 motor was Audi motor.

With what Scotty said. I've changed out clutches on NA 944's and have never had to remove any part of the front suspension. But it seems everything else has to come out. Unbolt drive shafts, pull exhaust, then transmission, then torque tube, the front bellhousing. After that you're home free!

Correct, the 924 was actually set to be a VW Sports car, but when the 914 was canned, Porsche took it back. 924s used an Audi truck engine, audi gear box (from a FWD too, there is a hole for a starter ) Super Beetle front struts & Audi breaks (drum rear ) and 4 on 108 bolt pattern... And yes, the 944 engine is literally half of a 928 engine.. A neat thing about all this is the fact that 944/951 F&R susp. is pretty much a bolt on for a Super Beetle, rear susp will fit IRS(68 & up) Beetles and that can make for a very fun VW...

Hard to believe the level of misinformation here. Remove the front suspension? Not on your life. Not even the rear suspension.Audi truck engine? Audi never made a truck, at least not in the last 3 decades. The Ur 924 had this engine. It's a VW medium duty (LT series) SOHC truck engine. The 944/924S had what could be considered half of a 928 engine, but it has much higher compression and is a well known "hitter", something that the 928 isn't. Break a timing belt on a 928 and it just stops running. The 924 engine has a balance shaft setup, something that's necessary on an inline "big four". Licensed from Mitsubishi, IIRC. The rear brakes? Late Beetle/Super Beetle, with a different bolt circle. Much larger than the drum brakes on any Audi. VW had Porsche design the project decided not to produce it after all. At that point, Porsche hired VW to build it on their behalf.

The Cap'n

Recently had my sights set on a 924. Test drove one the other day. Well, seems a 944 is a much better choice, even though I don't care for the flared fenders. 924S, I would consider if I could find a low milage one. The 924 was very very sluggish. Performance vs. parts & maintence cost = not worth it. Looking for a new DD. Kind of thinking 944 or Corrado G60. Congrads on your purchase Carrie. What's your driving impressions of the car?

I crawled back there and found the damn latch was frozen solid.
We are going to get a battery after lunch. Does anyone have an Optima number?

Paint Code: LY5V (or U)

Options: 076, N19, 018, 158, 425, 455, 533, and 567

What are these options?


But, what everyone is waiting for...pics!

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Mores pics!

What in the world is this tank for?

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Still don't know what the exact paint code is, but I found what some of the options code are.

018-Sports Steering Wheel with 30mm Hub
076-Apparently, very rare. No one knows what it is.
158-Radio "Monterey"
425-Rear Window Wiper-Missing
455-Anti Theft device for wheels
533-Alarm system or Radio convertible top-operation omitted
567-Graduated green tint upper part of windshield
N19-Apparently, very rare. No one knows what it is.

I really want to know what 076 or N19 mean. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Windshield washer fluid, I think.

I didn't know the '83 had power windows. Neat! (or maybe not-so-much )

Careful with that front bumber lowest part - might look under it to see if there's an air dam piece missing.

I thought washer fluid was on the other side?

The spoiler/air dam/valence has portion of the right side bracket missing.

There was a seat belt recall on this car. How can I tell if the recall was done?

i think it would be cool to have a 350 944. lighter and more power.

http://www.renegadehybrids.com/944/LS-1/LS-1.html

Here are pix of the release for the real hatch..

Thanks.

Well she lives. I can say with 100% that the motor mounts are shot to hell and back then back again.

It smoked and I saw a plume of smoke shoot straight up near the cowl in the center. There was a lot of oil/exhaust inside the cabin and made me very dizzy. Oil pressure was 3-5 on gauge.

I have 3 opportunities before me that 2 probably expire by the end of the week.

(1) Keep current unknown engine and do the annual belt/pulley/pump/thermostat job.

(2) Buy a 50,000 mile 1 owner engine never overheated that has all the paperwork. Been sitting for the last 12 years. Will need belt/pulley/pump/thermostat/front seals. $500 and its mine.

(3) Buy the sibling to my car that some how ended up going ass end first into a guard rail at high speeds. 150,000 miles 2 owners, no expense spared on maintenance. It looks like 30,000-40,000 mile car in immaculate condition. Belts/Pulley/Pump done just before it was wrecked.

What do you think?

Whats the price on #3?

sounds like #3 is the winner for a lot of reasons, not least of which is a pile of newer spare parts. of course the price should be right....

I've had 2 of these, and loved them both as I rolled up 100's of thousands of miles on them....great cars, very nice handling, good pep.

enjoy!

td

If I remember correctly, the oil pressure gauge is in Bar. So 3-5 is decent oil pressure. That would be about 43 to 72 psi.

I still want one

Before you buy ANY parts car, remember that an '83 is substantially different (even from an '84) in many ways. Many of the motronic components are one year only and haven't been available for years, and there may be differences in the drive belt components.

The Cap'n

$500

We don't keep the wheels because they belong to Rennsport. They put wheels on to move it around.




Cap'n, the parts car is a 1983 and I mainly want the thing for the brand new coolant tank, like new/new door weatherstripping and few other things.

I would go with option #3. I had a 88 944 NA that was a blast to drive. I only had it for 2 yrs while my 914 was in process of being painted and such. Only reason why I sold it was to have extra $$ to pay for the 914 work.

Go for it. But change the regular belts on the blue car and drive it hard. (Dont change the timing belt unless it doesnt look new)
Getting some miles in the engine should get it running a little better. Do a seafoam treatment (google it) and a regular tune up.

Take the other engine out of the parts car and start going over it cleaning it up and doing maintenance. Then when you get the time swap engines and repeat the process with the engine from the blue car. You now have a great running engine and a spare you can keep or sell.

Then when things start to go on blue car you can replace them with the parts car parts. Oh and start off with the motor mounts, You can pull the motor mounts from the parts car and inspect them. If your trani mounts are shot you can fill them with polyurethane from Mcmaster car or go to your local auto parts store and buy "window weld".

So, I am now the proud owner of the sibling car. We'll go back and trailer it home in a couple of weeks because the blue car is still on the trailer.

I was lucky to find the cracked out fuel hose between the tank and pump on the blue car before I started it. I smelled fuel and noticed the hose was cracked out to inside.

I have a brand new $20 hose which will go on this weekend.

Right, last time we were scrambling to find the NLA fuel hose from the filter to pump. All rear end fuel hoses have been replaced. The car started billowing clouds of white smoke out the tail pipe with fresh non-ethanol higher test gas.

Cause? Not bleeding the system. System is mostly bled and now the car sends out small puffs of white smoke. Oil is not milky.

The belts will shortly be replaced due to a discovery of a 1/16th crack in the main belt.

At this point, neither fan on the radiator will come on. What is the procedure to diagnose this/fix?

I need to buy a Factory Manual. PM if you have one!

Here's an even sillier question.

Where is the auxiliary fuse block on an '83?

Never mind.

The main & auxiliary are together on the '83.

The driver's side fan is confirmed to not come on. The fuse is good.
The passenger side fan aka the AC fan works with the switch (knob) is activated.

Nother silly question.

There is a short piece of hose on the backside of the engine with some sort of valve w/lever is attached to. This is spewing coolant.

What is it?

Right, this appears to look like the valve just before the heater exchanger for cabin heat.

I feel like I'm talking to myself.

Is there a 944world.com?

not sure if anyone has mentioned this page to you or not, but I would suggest reading every page of it. Helped me solve 9 out 10 problems with my 944 when I had it...VERY useful!

http://www.clarks-garage.com/

Clarks Garage will bring you up to speed on many things. Change the belts and rollers, water pump too. No need to buy the parts car. Put the new motor mounts in and drive it. You will find the leaks and get the bugs worked out. When you realize it needs more power, you cab sell it and buy a 951 for not a lot of cash. I got one for 5k. I project car, but will be my daily driver soon.

The belts are pretty straight forward. Not worth the risk.

Yeah, we've been using Clark's Garage for a few things. However, our '83 is a little different from other '83s. Probably due to it being an early car for the '83.

We're moving faster on the '83 instead of doing a slow partial restro because the Saab's trying to buy the farm.




This morning starting the car and letting it warm up caused big billowing white clouds of smoke out of the tail pipe. When the AC was turned on both fans turned on and the psgr side turned off with the AC while the driver's stayed running for a bit before turning off.

We're going to do a compression test on the engine after lunch. What kind of numbers should we see on an '83 with low miles & a theoretically healthy engine?

Compression Test Numbers:

#1 155
#2 145
#3 95
#4 142

So, I guess new P&C?