I posted this on the Pelican Board, but I thought I'de post here as well to see if I can get some help...

Helping a friend out with a engine conversion (3.0 into a 75), and as I'm finishing up I seem to have run into a bit of a problem.

We've brought over the engine, CIS, and everything successfully. My problem is, that sometimes the car will and wont start, and I think I've narrowed it down to an FI issue. It seems like the only way I can get the car to start consistently is by pushing up on that sort of air plunger, located inside the Airbox behind the filter. Most of the time, the car will start for a short while (10-20 seconds) and then it will die out, also, it will be quite rough at times with back-fires and such.

On occasion, if I can keep the throttle going, I can have it running for up to 3-5 mins, but it again dies and is difficult to start.

So far, I've replaced the Cold Start Valve, the fuel filter, and cleaned the fuel distributor, but I'm seriously running out of options, and I want this thing running again!

Sounds like a BIG vacuum leak.
Any of the many plugs missing from the boots or splits in the boots will keep idle airflow from actuating the airflow-metering throttle plate.

BTDT.

Enrique,

Buy the freakin' "Bosch Fuel Injection & Engine Management" book by Probst. Then read the section on Continuous Injection.

You have a CIS system ...

The air flow plate can be maladjusted

The center piston in the fuel distributor can be sticking

The control pressures can be incorrect

The check valve in the pump can be bad.

The fuel pump output could be below standards.

The warm up regulator (control pressure regulator) could be bad or out of specification

You will need the factory charts to check most of the above. It's based on temperature.

The CIS system is all about temperatures and pressures. If they ain't right, it ain't gonna run.

Oh, and what year 3.0? .... metal or plastic fuel lines ... makes a difference.

You forgot the accumulator.

The Cap'n

'sploded intake manifold, dislodged toilet seat, unplugged vac nipple to power brakes.

It could be!



That was the problem with my 3.0L conversion but only when hot. Cold it would start fine and run until warmed up then just turn over until I pushed up on the AFR and it would start up fine!

Edit: A large vacume leak will also cause the symptoms you are discribing! I was able to test mine by hooking a vacume cleaner exhaust side to the intake and spray soapy water everywhere around the intake!

The solution:





Much prettier and sweeter sounding....

Noisy and lousy fuel mileage

So buy a Priiius....

I run CIS ...

Follow that advice if you want to go from 95% driving/5% fixing to 50% driving/50% fuching with carbs.




Once you get the CIS working, it'll be pretty bullet-proof for a long time. Turn the key and the engine will run.

I would check the AAR or thermo time switch.

You may want to check this site out for the basics on the CIS system: http://members.rennlist.com/jimwms/CIS/CIShome.html. (CIS Primer)

In addition to the standard testing of system pressure, cold control and warm control pressures (you will need a fuel pressure test kit), I'd check the output of your fuel pump as well as how much pressure it is putting out (75+#'s IIRC). Also make sure that the fuel return line to the tank is clear.

Tracking down the problem can be a bit daunting but after you've got it nailed, it will be worth it. Good luck.

Keith