Hi All -
I was trucking right along on my car last night. I did the hard oil line, the headers/muffler bracket - things were going fine.

I installed all of the new bushings for my shift linkage and went to install the shift bar - It was not even close to fitting. It really hits the headers, and I am also a bit concerend aboout it hitting the left side timing chain cover as well.

My car is a 1972 with a tail shifter. My tranny shifts really well, so I had no interest in swapping to the side shifer. I thought this would also keep my conversion easier as I thought the -6 used the same early parts.

Does anyone have any experience with this? I did a pile of searches, but all I can find are shift bar modification for the 1973 and later side shift linkages - which has made me even more concerend.....

Absolutely in your debt for any help....

Scott S

Is the shift linkage for a 4 or a 6?

It is a -4....

I'm pretty sure that the 6's linkage was bent differently. Not sure though for tail shifter. You could probably bend it to make it fit around the exhaust and than cut the middle somewhere and weld some more metal to extend the length.

You can:

1 Dent the headers

or

2 Put a bend in the shifter bar

or

3 Raise the front of the engine enough to clear the shift rod

or

4. Convert to a side-shifter

Those are my suggestions and #3 is probably the best method. Can't see what kind of front mount you used or your induction system.

Scott,

the -6 tail shifter
and the -4 tail shifters are different....


IMHO... the easiest way around this would be to make a new shift bar
you can buy the right size of tubing and fairly easily make an new bar with the bends in it...

Even if you convert to a side shifter wouldn't you still have to modify the bar to get it to fit correctly?

I vote for converting to a side shifter as various people, including Chris Foley have shifter upgrades with bent shifter rods. BTW mine works great, so I'd vote for that option.

I wonder about the idea of lifting the engine as that will likely impact handling.

Hi Ron -
I am using the Rich Johnson mount and I am carbed. I dont think there is anyway to lift the motor. I guess I could have some large spacers machined to raise the 911 sport mounts on the mount - but I dont know if there is enough room. As a side note, my engine tins align perfectly with the gasket/engine shelf.

Looks like modifying the bar is the only option. While scary as hell to me, I guess if I build a very specific jig where I actually attach/bolt down the bar to retain the geometry, it *should* work.

Huge bummer. That transmission shifts great. Hope I dont botch it.

You could always make yourself a custom rod that clears everything.

Definitely a different shift rod. Looks like it's different all the way up to the shifter in the car.
Click to view attachment

With carbs you should be able to lift the engine, but probably not the best idea ... it was an estimated quick fix.

Take a good look at the shift linkage ... the /6 linkage looks a lot like the side shifter in that it comes straight out of the shifter firewall hole. The /4 tailshifter is offset by a couple of inches at the firewall ... front rod comes out of hole and mates to the offset rear rod. Therein probably lies the problem. I don't know if you could modify the /4 tailshift linkage at the firewall to accommodate the problem as I have only owned one tailshifter in my life.

You should be able to cut a section out, rotate the cut section, and then weld it back together. I've got a jig for the side shifters, but I've never had a request for a tail shifter rod.

Well, I spent six hours on this issue last night. I bought two additional shift rods locally (thanks Kev!) built a jig to index everything and went at it. My plan was to extend the bends on the bar by simply adding the bends from another bar (see pic).

Click to view attachment

So I cut and welded and grinded. I cleared the header - but just barely. However, with the gearshifter moved all the way forward (pushing the linkage all the way to the rear), it became painfully obvious that there was going to be a problem with the bar hitting the timing chain cover. There is no way to re-index the factory bends to make it work. So pissed.

Click to view attachment

My plan now is to cut the ends off the bar and make drops that are straight down out of flat stock. The only issue will be that the plastic cover/boot at the firewall will have to be trimmed/modified.

Click to view attachment


It will work, but I am bummed. I have tried so hard to do this conversion "right" and stay away from my usual red-neck/"get r done" tendencies. F-ing flat stock steel.... nothing but class. cr@p. Might as well have it chromed too.....

I think it would have been easier to convert it to a side shift and go with a straight shifter bar!

Hey that is not a red neck way to get it done! You customized your own shift rod that's all. The red neck way would have been to dent the exhaust in and forget about it.