What do most of you think a market "high value" P-car should look like?

Okay, so the wife & I have been doing some looking at `85-91 928S/S4's as an "extra 3rd car" for fun & local or trip-cruising use, & for some occasional towing duties (as I posted here in another topic).

I just want to make sure that I'm correctly & reasonably evaluating the cars we're looking at & driving, for price vs. condition & mileage. So I'm trying to equate my idea of condition when I see the cars, relative to the "normal & reasonable expectations" for high values listed in the 928 Buyers Guide by "Excellence" magazine, NADA guides, etc. (see snips from their websites' explanations that I copied below).

My thinking is that a car would be in the middle or average values or lower - with the normal chips, door dings, scratches, etc. on the paint from wear-n-tear of DD or limited pleasure use over the 20-30 years, minor interior condition flaws like leather steering wheel wrap coming partially un-stitched or wearing a bit, or trim parts with chips or dents, minor carpet or upholstery wear or flaws, etc.

Then they say below to add 10-25% for low mileage adjustments for less than 7-9k per year (much more on exceptionally low miles say at 0-20k or so I assume), so I'd assume that's a range based on how many miles below the 7-9k per year it is - & more of an art than a science!

The resulting condition level price & mileage adjusted range of course, should be discounted by any major work needed on the car (if anything) - some of which could be taking care of some of those condition issues when necessary to halt further deterioration or problems. Such discounting would be done per a PPI or mechanic's estimate for same.

But in my query here, I'm just trying to get to evaluating the car & get to the baseline value per condition & mileage (i.e.: before paying for a PPI).

It seems that this is what they're saying when they evaluate prices, but most owners/sellers are far more "forgiving" & optimistic value-wise when it comes to their own cars.

So what thinks you??

If you have to equate it to 914s, just think of it as a 914 x 2 - 900 = 928!
Of course, this process applies to buying 914s & any car.

FROM EXCELLENCE MAGAZINE - BUYERS GUIDES:

<snipped>
How to Use Our Numbers

High vs. Low: Our estimates reflect values for the majority of cars on the market. On the High end you should find cars with no more than 7,000 to 9,000 miles per year, excellent paint, normal wear but little tear, and no glaring mechanical or cosmetic issues. On the Low end you should find complete, running cars with higher mileage, cosmetic damage, and/or minor mechanical needs. Generally speaking, we allow an additional 10 percent for mileage lower than 7,000-9,000 miles per year, and subtract 10-25 percent for past body damage that required paintwork. Due to the high cost to repair and restore Porsches, cars at the High price point often represent better long-term value than those at the Low end, as the cost to make a rough car nice will exceed the difference between the two.

Exceptions: Of course, some cars fall outside of our range — on both ends. Cars with major needs (excessive rust, blown engines, crash damage, etc.) and cars with salvage titles are typically worth less, often a lot less. On the other side, older or desirable Porsches with very low miles and original cosmetics in immaculate condition, cars benefitting from top-end restorations, and cars with interesting histories can command far higher prices, sometimes doubling or tripling our High estimate. An immaculate, totally original 1972 911E with 143,000 miles might qualify, since 140,000 to 180,000 miles would be considered normal in a 20-year-old 911. If the same car had 43,000, 4,300, or 430 miles, we'd expect the price to go up exponentially — but such cars are truly exceptional examples, and their prices are often truly exceptional, too. When dealing with such cars, seek the advice of an expert or get an independent appraisal.
<ed snip>

~ AND ~

FROM THE NADA CLASSIC CAR VALUE GUIDE:

<snipped>
Value Explanations

Prices shown are retail consumer values and to be considered as selling prices. Trade-in values are to be determined by local dealers and are generally lower than values shown.

Low Retail Value
This vehicle would be in mechanically functional condition, needing only minor reconditioning. The exterior paint, trim, and interior would show normal wear, needing only minor reconditioning. May also be a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. Most usable "as-is".

Some of the vehicles in this publication could be considered "Daily Drivers" and are not valued as a classic vehicle. When determining a value for a daily driver, it is recommended that the subscriber use the low retail value.

Note: This value does not represent a "parts car".

Average Retail Value
This vehicle would be in good condition overall. It could be an older restoration or a well-maintained original vehicle. Completely operable. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are presentable and serviceable inside and out. A "20-footer".

High Retail Value
This vehicle would be in excellent condition overall. It could be a completely restored or an extremely well maintained original vehicle showing very minimal wear. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are not in need of reconditioning. The interior would be in excellent condition. Note: This value does not represent a "100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle *.

* "100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle is not driven. It would generally be in a museum or transported in an enclosed trailer to concourse judging and car shows. This type of car would be stored in a climate-regulated facility.
<end snip>

The Excellence description is decent but should include detailed maintenance records. When I bought my high retail value 924S the guy had a 3 ring binder with the date and mileage of all maintenance related items. This included receipts from the shops, dealer or auto parts store.

... John.

I have such binders for all 3 of our current cars, plus started one for our son's Honda for his use. They're also great to prove actual mileage is correct - particularly when it's claimed as very low mileage for higher value!.

How would you place a car with such DD/light driver dings/chips/scratches - as opposed to a flawless original or new paint job?

IMHO that's avg. or mid-value by their definitions.