Hi Y'all I am a new kid on the block here . I just bought a 72 rust bucket anyhow I need a lot work and advices. I would like to know about the GT fiber glass flares how to install them .I don't have enough cash to spend on steel flares I rather use my money on motor.Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance
914/72

See, "New wheels mean GT flairs" post.

Work on that motor first.

Practicality before appearance... always.

Also, you'd need some wider wheels to fill those flares

Fix the rust, brakes, suspension, engine, then start thinking of flares.

The fiberglass flares seem the cheap way out to start. But it cost more $$$$$$ to do it right than it ould to do steel the first time. I have done the Fiberglass flares they are a real pain. Okay they cost 1/4 what the steel flares do, but you buy the proper epoxy, it is another $200 so now you are half the cost of steel, then you have all the special fitting, and filler, time etc....... The cost easily out weighs the cost of the AA repos and proper fit.

Fiberglass not worth it in my book, but your mileage may vary..

The cheapest flares are steel flares.....if you make them yourself. For less than $100 in tools you can get started. Spend more to go faster. The main thing is the labor, and lots of it. Also noise.... your neighbors better be friendly, and tolerant! If you perform a search of the site, you will find lots of information. Here is a bit more:

http://allshops.org/cgi-bin/community/comm...d=9980138836765

http://allshops.org/cgi-bin/community/comm...d=9980160442904

If you are dead set on GT flares, then store-bought fiberglass or steel are you options. Fiberglass requires a little less skill. Steel is the best choice.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

I hate my glas flares. I post cured every layup inside and out. After paining the car (black part of the problem <_< ) The sun caused read thru from the mat. One warped so bad it curved in and almost touched the side wall on one of my rear tires. I ended up bonding a stiff piece of round stock inside to straighten the thing back out. After about 10 years of curing in the air and sun I was able to straighten them out to an acceptable appearance. I purchased them many years ago. Long before the metal re-pops and long before I knew the factory ones were still availible. Oh ya, and long before the internet. If I were to do another car with the gt look I would spend the cash for the re-pops or fab my own. I don't know why I ever went with glas in the first place. It must have been a weak moment for me. It's not like I haven't done any metal crafting before. duh!

Go with steel. Once they're on, they're permanent.

Oh SHIT! Means my glass falres will give me grief over the years. Dang! Rick, ever thought about moving back to steel? Crap, I tossed the parts I cut out of my fenders already. Double crap.

my roller came with glass flares...ill see what happens

Thank you all very much

Dear sir
What can I do with this fender? Can it be safe ?
And behide the driver in the engine compartment what can I do to fixe this? What is my options? I looked in the Automotive Atlanta catalog but didn't see any replacement parts for them.
Thanks

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Buy a rust free rolling chassis and move your good parts to it ........................... The Cap'n

What about the battery tray? Longs? rear suspension mounts? rear suspension ear? rear trunk? Floor pans?

the rust you show leads us to think that the above listed is very likely to have alot of rust. Take a big screwdriver, and start stabbing. If the suspension mounts or longs have rust do what the captain said, if not, you could fix the rust, but figure about 500 if you do it yourself (read alot of work) or 2k or so for a pro....

A new tub makes alot of sense....