anyone BTDT with the complete kits from Painless??

I figure the 18 fuse "universal" kit would be the best choice...........

Thats what Im going to go with.. Give me 2 months and I'll tell you how it went! (I'll get the best I can from ebay...)

Andrew

Never tried the Painless wiring. I have used the Ron Francis wiring. There is Wire Works Advantage Plus,EZ wiring,American Autowire Systems,Its A Snap wire and cable,Southern Rods Kwik Harness,Haywire inc., just to name a few.
CCLINWIRED

Would you have to run individual fuses for each headlight High and low or could you go with just one? Maybe to a relay (probably already setup that way...

Any other reverse ground stuff to watch out for?

There was a kit for about $170 that looks pretty good. Have to find it again..
20 circuits I think.

We have used the painless kits in a few cars. Pretty "painless" to install

Mike et al,

I have not used or even seen a Painless harness in person, so take my comments or leave them. But I do know something about automotive wiring and I have reviewed their website and suggest the following FWIW:

They are probably reputable as they apparently have thousands of dealers...Their products look quickly assembled and use inexpensive materials.

They simply bundle wire and zip tie them...you can do that yourself as you need, for an exact fit to your car. Its only what ~20 circuits?

Their FI harnesses...Yuck. Their photos do not show casing. Casing protects the wiring from grease and liquids and most importantly...HEAT. Heat will destroy their harnesses in short order. Also, I dont think they offer the correct D-Jet or L-Jet housings and wire terminals but I could be wrong. How about the all important boots where they need to be? Teh boots are what keeps the housings on the fuel injectors and protects the various connections from contamination.

Their main body harnesses also require their aftermarket fuseblock....one more deviation from stock.

What I disagree with the most is their use of the plastic coated 'insulated' crimp-on wire terminals. These terminals are not good for automotive applications...!!!Danger Will Robinson!!! Danger!!!... <_<

I would think that anyone that truly needs a new main body harness would be best off if they just wired their own...reuse the stock fuseblock and run one wire at a time.

So what is a good connector for wiring things like mallory ignition box, starter switch, fuel pump?

I was going to crimp and heat shrink but now????


Regarding painless, I thought their stuff looked OK but nothing special regarding switches, hardware, etc.

I'll be getting all my swithces etc from Aircraft Spruce.

thanks Jeff, I appreciate your opinion and expertise on the subject....

do you have a recommendation for buying bulk wire in multiple colors that are suitable for automotive use? I'd like to have at least 10 or more different colors with at least 25' of each color

the current wire I am using for my new MS harness is "very" wrong, 18 and 20 AWG teflon coated wire

Perfect. Get the correct wire terminal for the component and sized correctly for the wire, preferably with a separate insualation crimp for stress relief. Shrink wrap it and thats about as good as it can get..



What wrong with that? Teflon insulated wire is great for high heat uses overkill for trunk and cabin areas. Buty its really super important that in an open engine bay, in any engine bay...that the harness be encased...for protection and longevity.

Google on Waytek wire. They even will custom color stripe your wire for a nominal charge.