VENTING!!!!

1 head Broken off

1/2 of total screws removed

Balance frozen solid

2 cans of PB Blaster

1 impact screwdriver

1 hammer chisel (last resort)

0 patience

ARGHHHHHHHHHH

Anti-Seize combined with Stainless Fasteners will eliminate most of the problems.

Heat is your friend when removing old rusty bolts. Heat them up and they will almost always come right out. If you don't have a torch try to borrow one. It will save you lots of greef and heartache. Good luck, Ray

I found that having a screwdriver that fit the screw-heads correctly made a world of difference. The only one I could find that did was a HUGE mother from Sears. It was the largest slot-head Craftsman screwdriver that my local Sears had on hand. It might be the largest one they make? It's at least 18" long, so pretty much impossible to use in the engine bay. But boy did it work a treat once the engine was out.

I managed to get a couple of screws out with my regular screwdrivers, and took the least-mangled one over to Sears to find a driver that fit it. I sprayed each of the screws with PB Blaster before I went to the store. When I came back with the proper screwdriver, even the ones I had mangled came out nicely.

I bought a 100-count bag of M6x20mm allen-head bolts to replace all of those slot-head buggers when I started putting the engine tin back on again. I've never regretted that.

--DD

I never understood the heat on the bolt. If I heat the screw won't it expand and just get tighter. Don't I want to heat around the screw?

I agree Dave on the allens, I was thinking even hex heads would be much better. I have a big screwdriver, but I am going to Sears tomorrow!

Heat expands the screw relative to the aluminum head, then the screw shrinks as it cools. Many times this breaks the seal between the screw and whatever it is fastened to. Also provides a path for penetrants to wick in.

On the other hand, it can also screw up the temper/ heat treat in a fastener.

go to McMasterCarr.com and order a box...

Replaced most if not all of mine with hex head bolts. Works great. It seems like at least once a year I see a post like this. I think we all agree those screws really suck.

You can use a map gas torch from your local FLATS or building supply store. Heat them,,,,spray them,,, heat them let them cool down then spray them again.

You guys in California don't know what a stuck bolt is until you've tried to remove a chees head screw from the rust belt.

Impact screwdriver with the right head on it....one wack..nice and square

See, I blame the DAPO who left it to sit out in the rain.

But seriously, I feel your pain. BTDT.

On the lighter humor side: this is what happens when you out engineer the engineers who designed the car. I swear these engines were designed to leak oil, keeping those from rusting. Being " smarter", we fix the oil leaks. Now no oil leaks, but rusted and stuck screws and bolts.
I also put in allens when I removed my cheesehead screws.
Tom

It was left out in the rain? Now you tell me. I though it was that I was just nostalgic for cars driven and kept in MAINE!

Never seize is not necessary on these screws. Stainless fasteners can seize just as bad or worse than non-stainles due to dissimilar metal corrosion.

In 2002 I built the engine for my 912E, I took it apart after 8 years and 160,000 miles and none of the fasteners were seized and no anti seize was used. Here we have hellacious humidity and fasteners corrode quickly because of it.

Let anything sit out in the elements and it'll corrode and when that happens never seize won't help you very much.

Well these weren't stainless Jake, and the worst were in the head near the intakes. I got all out now, however I had a couple of casualties. What is the best way to handle these, forget about them? Drill them out and tap to a larget size?

Most likely these we never out from new. I found no evidence that the sheet metal was removed. All Fasteners were original and bad......

Whever mentioned the torch is my friend!

Youre machinist can fix them like new. I'm a fan of the original screws. Ive used allens, but the heads can strip much easier than the slots. Hex head sockets can scratch the paint or powder coat around the bolt head. A proper size screw tip on an impact will remove 99 percent of seized screws.

Will I have to take the heads off to have them fixed or can I bring a machinist the long block?

heat expands screw, compresses rust and other debries caught between threads, cools and now is losser.

or with steel screw, aluminum threaded hole, heat both, even to same temp, aluminum will expand more than the steel, (higher thermal coef. of expansion on the aluminum)

or Heat can effect the coeff. of friction, hotter maybe lower friction result.

many things can come into play depending on materials and reason for tightness.

In general heat helps, for any of many reasons

I've never had heat work for me, but maybe they were too far gone or I didn't heat them up enough.

Interestingly, on the 914 Wheeler Dealer show, they had a quick shot of them using heat to remove the rusted screws. The screw was bright orange. I don't think I've ever heated them up that much.

I saw that. I didn
t heat that much either, however the heating, PB, Heating cycles definitely worked.

Seriously, what do you expect?? Aluminum head and block with a steel fastener and 40 years of time in the north east. . . I wouldn't attempt to remove these until they had a couple days worth of soak time on them with blaster or Kroil.

The trick is BEFORE you break the heads off, use a torch and PB Blaster. Tapping on them with a hammer helps too. Using a a large screw driver that fills the slot is important too. Don't bother with a Sears screw driver either; the ones without the hardened tips do more damage than anything else. Any of the quality tool makers like Snap-on, MAC, Matco etc will work flawlessly and reduce the breakage.

I expected a hassle and I got it. The jobs done now, and you were right, it took two days of soaking continuously, along with persuasion.

Stainless fasteners and never seize are not magical. Fasteners corrode.
We do not use stainless fasteners on engines.