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I searched! I even tried to resurrect an old thread but it didn't get much attention, so I'll start another...

I bought a 205aa distributor (1974 1.8 dizzy) for my 2.0 with dual webers (it has an 009 now), and I'm not sure about the vacuum connections. The vacuum can on the 205 has two vac ports, as I understand it, one for advance and one for retard ( drooley.gif biggrin.gif ). What do I do with the retard side, use it or plug it? Where would the retard side plug into?
Will this operate as well as an SVDA (assuming both have petronix installed), or should I re-sell this 205 and pick one of those up instead?
Finally, do I need to use the vacuum from both carbs, or will one suffice?

TIA
Chris

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Anyone? Bueller? Bueller? icon_bump.gif
rhodyguy
i need to put a 205 in the green car. i tried 205 +distributor +carburetor and got 3 pages of threads. i can't devote hours sifting thru them. should i use the text contain option rather than title search?
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QUOTE(rhodyguy @ May 27 2012, 06:58 AM) *

i need to put a 205 in the green car. i tried 205 +distributor +carburetor and got 3 pages of threads. i can't devote hours sifting thru them. should i use the text contain option rather than title search?


The search function will dismiss the "205" part, so you're getting everything containing distributor and carburetor... I used +weber +distributor, and you can limit it further by searching titles only.

What specifically did you need to know?
914itis
I don't think you need any vacuum for carbs. You can simply leave them unplug or remove the can.
rhodyguy
perfect. thanks paul.

k
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But, the car will run be more smoothly, and more efficiently with the vacuum, that's the whole point of using the 205 instead of a 009. Which carbs are you using?
r_towle
For advance, drill out the ports on the carbs for vacuum, tie them all together into a single line, then tie that to the advance port.
Don't use the retard port, leave it open and unplugged to the atmosphere.

Set timing at 3500 rims to ensure you are dealing with full advance when timing it.
You may need to mark your fan and housing, or use a newer timing light that can be programmed for 27 degrees advance.

The advance vacuum canister just brings on the advance sooner than the normal weights do it, so it's a smoother ramp up from a stop light..
Retard is purely for emissions and seeing as you have carbs, you are not worried about emissions.

Rich
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QUOTE(r_towle @ May 27 2012, 07:49 AM) *

For advance, drill out the ports on the carbs for vacuum, tie them all together into a single line, then tie that to the advance port.
Don't use the retard port, leave it open and unplugged to the atmosphere.

Set timing at 3500 rims to ensure you are dealing with full advance when timing it.
You may need to mark your fan and housing, or use a newer timing light that can be programmed for 27 degrees advance.

The advance vacuum canister just brings on the advance sooner than the normal weights do it, so it's a smoother ramp up from a stop light..
Retard is purely for emissions and seeing as you have carbs, you are not worried about emissions.

Rich


^^This, except if he's running webers, the port on the carbs is already there, just with a tiny screw to cap if off when not in use... No drilling required. And, depending on which 205 he's using, the maximum advance can be as high as 29-32 at 3400 RPM.
rhodyguy
where did you find the dif listing for the l-jet distributors? the exploded parts diagram in the AA cat, p.212, all the listings start 022 905 205 with the dif being the ending letters. F, AB, H, P, no letters, and A with the AB listed as the only one for 1.8 l-jet with a specific ECU#. the rest are d-jet for assorted 1.7 and 2.0s with specific engine serial number ranges. i see where it would be easy to be confused with the generic '205' term. the AB seems to be crucial. i'm in the 'putting away' mode and i guess i'll have to open some boxes.

k

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QUOTE(rhodyguy @ May 27 2012, 08:28 AM) *

where did you find the dif listing for the l-jet distributors? the exploded parts diagram in the AA cat, p.212, all the listings start 022 905 205 with the dif being the ending letters. F, AB, H, P, no letters, and A with the AB listed as the only one for 1.8 l-jet with a specific ECU#. the rest are d-jet for assorted 1.7 and 2.0s with specific engine serial number ranges. i see where it would be easy to be confused with the generic '205' term. the AB seems to be crucial. i'm in the 'putting away' mode and i guess i'll have to open some boxes.

k


Found this chart here, during a search for the info I was originally looking for when I posted this thread:

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rhodyguy
wow!! cool chart. i don't know where you found it but it should be in the 'originality forum' if not already there. the AA and AB have the same specs. i wonder if the dif is being for a 74' L-jet system vs 75-76'.

k
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Found it here: (post 6)
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=advance++chart
brant
I've owned about 6 sets of 4cylinder idf's
only 1 of them had the vacuum ports
I assume that was a "later" model of carb but don't know for sure.

the majority don't have the vacuum ports made in from the factory.

Nice chart!
rhodyguy
none of the weber IDF series carbs i've owned have had the provision for vacuum advance lines. i'm sure there are some but very application specific.

k
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QUOTE(rhodyguy @ May 27 2012, 09:38 AM) *

none of the weber IDF series carbs i've owned have had the provision for vacuum advance lines. i'm sure there are some but very application specific.

k

Weird. I checked mine (Spanish made 40's) and it was there on both, here:
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rhodyguy
i just looked at some italian 40s. screws are there. you learn something new everyday, hopefully. this is turning into a very informative thread.

k
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Man I searched and searched before I started a new thread, it amazing whats already out there that just needs to be "re-discovered" ... Here, the bird site, the samba... It's overwhelming really! Glad to share what I come across!
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Chris
r_towle
Some webers are drilled, some are not, all of them have the bung that can be drilled.

Rich
Grelber
I have a 2.0L w/ Weber 40's and the 205D dizzy. The vacuum can is on but isn't hooked up and it runs great.
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Today I finally yanked my old 009, points, and old coil and put in the 205AA with pertronix, new blue coil, and plugs/wires. I also ran vaccume lines from my webers to the advance can on the new dizzy.

WHAT A DIFFERENCE. More low end grunt, as well as continuous pull through to redline, smoother power delivery from idle to WOT. It's like a whole new car, the smile on my face after the "it's all dialed in" drive was HUGE, maybe as big as it was the day the car was first delivered...

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Chris
anderssj
Wow, very timely thread!

I have a 1.8 dizzy in the garage. I want to use it as a replacement for the car's current 050, so the info here is a big help.

Only question now is one of confirming the PN. The number on my 1.8 dizzy is slightly different from the one in the table; it's stamped 021 905 2305A-B. The secondary number is the same as shown in the table, so I guess it's the same 1.8 dizzy, correct?

Thanks again,

Steve A-
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