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don9146
I am still on the hunt for the "just right" road race car, and I am wondering about the diffecenses cost-wise between some of the calsses. It seems that most people road race 914s in either SCCA's ITB, FP, or EP. I have already counted out EP as too expensinve and am trying to get a more detailed picture of the price differences between ITB (with a 2.0) and FP (with a 1.8). I know an IT car would be cheaper to buy or build, but what about:

1. Engine rebuilds. How often do the engines need to be rebuilt and what are the approximate costs of each (I know some of how long the engine lasts will depend on how competitive you want to be)?
2. Does everyone that run in FP swap gear ratios for each track? Or have a "short track" and "long track" gearbox they swap out?
3. How much more is it to build a competitive FP tub?
4. Is there another class where the 914 is competitive? The ITB class will be fun, but I would like to go faster.
5. Does anyone have a multi-series car? As in a car that can race with the PCA, the POC, SCCA, NASA, hisotorics, etc.?

Basically, I would be willing to absorb the increased up-front cost of an FP car if the long term costs were similar. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Don
ChrisFoley
Production definitely costs more than Improved Touring.
Going faster means things are stressed more highly, thereby requiring more frequent maintenance.
One thing about either class, you can prepare the car to meet the safety standards, without spending a lot to make the car competetive. As time goes on and you gain experience you can upgrade the suspension and engine.
Brett W
Buy a honda civic and go racing in NASA or buy a spec Miata. They are infintely more reliable and cheaper than a Porsche. Pop a honda motor, find a ricer and get on for free. Pop a POrsche motor and mortgage the house.

Seriously though if you want to go POrsche racing, you need to figure out:
(in this order)
- How fast do you want to go (Speed cost money)
- How much dinner are you prepared to sacrifice to go fast
- Will your wife tolerate the impending finiancial strain?
- Can you do all or most of the work


IT racing can be very expensive in that there is a lot of contact in those classes. Production and GT are for the guys that want to build cars. I would tell you to go to HSR and run in the 2.0 GT class. The fields usually have 25-40 cars and they are all pretty much the same as far as power and such, it is all driver skill. You can also buy one for pretty cheap. There tends to not be as much contact and exceesive body damage in Historic racing.
d914
agree.gif HSR seems to be the best place for a moderately modified car and the rules are pretty simple. Make it look right, tire and rim size, motor size and saftey stuff. Thems the rules...... No long discussions on whats the interpretation of the word "is"..... Pick an engine size, 2.0 or 2.5.
VegasRacer
My 2 cents worth.

I started racing a Spec RX-7 in SCCA. It was cheap, competitive and a lot of fun. I then decided I wanted to race a Porsche. My schedule would not allow me to run with just one group so I was forced to build a car that was legal for several sanctioning bodies. I soon found out the guys in POC and PCA had a LOT larger racing budget than I did. I also quickly figured out that I could be competitive in the vintage groups.

The 914 is more fun to drive than the Mazda (and a lot cooler too). I must admit that it was more fun racing in a spec class where your had to fight for every corner. If you really want to race a teener and not break the bank, VARA and HSR is the way to go.

The above is probably not a very good sales pitch - but it is the truth.
If you want a turn-key multi class 914 race car, check out the one I have for sale.
machina
Don,

Your question covers alot of ground. Where you can race your car depends on where you live and how far you are willing to travel on race weekends. Down here in FL we have 4 major tracks within 200 miles, and Daytona is only a couple hours more.

I have mostly run with SCCA vintage class. Really they are a laid back bunch of racers, nice guys, not super competitive. Usually you find a few cars equal in speed and race with them. Also they run with a 13/13 rule so on track "incidents" are less frequent.

914's can also run Production or IT class with SCCA, so it is really a very flexible racecar.

We also have a club here called PBOC which is an offshoot of the west coast POC with BMW's in the mix. The rules allow basically any 4 cylinder car to run in group R6, that puts a high powered TIV in a very good postion.

PCA only has one race down here in February but it is the biggest race of the year (Sebring 48 hours) I plan on running it this year but will have to go in GT class, should be fun anyway.

Cost depends totally on how much work YOU can do on your car. If you are always dragging your racecar to the shop, it will add up fast. Learn to do as much as you can here on the board. And as always, the faster you go, the more money it will cost.

Remember, this is supposed to be fun, we're not getting paid to do this, we are paying.
don9146
QUOTE(Brett W @ Oct 11 2004, 08:15 PM)
Buy a honda civic and go racing in NASA or buy a spec Miata. They are infintely more reliable and cheaper than a Porsche. Pop a honda motor, find a ricer and get on for free. Pop a POrsche motor and mortgage the house.

Seriously though if you want to go POrsche racing, you need to figure out:
(in this order)
- How fast do you want to go (Speed cost money)
- How much dinner are you prepared to sacrifice to go fast
- Will your wife tolerate the impending finiancial strain?
- Can you do all or most of the work


IT racing can be very expensive in that there is a lot of contact in those classes. Production and GT are for the guys that want to build cars. I would tell you to go to HSR and run in the 2.0 GT class. The fields usually have 25-40 cars and they are all pretty much the same as far as power and such, it is all driver skill. You can also buy one for pretty cheap. There tends to not be as much contact and exceesive body damage in Historic racing.

1.
I like the Spec Miata class, (I help a friend with one on occasion), but they are almost "common" at the tracks now. I will admit they are everywhere because they are a good, cheap way to go racing, but I would like to race on the track what I drive on the street and race something a little more unique. Besides, a well-prepped ITB 914 should be competitive with a Spec Miata on the track (and around here, spec Miatas are on the track at the same time as ITA and ITB cars).
2.
I know how fast I want to go, but I am trying to figure out how much it costs to go as fast as I want biggrin.gif
3.
I already eat microwave dinner crap 3 times a day, so I cna't cut any more out of the food budget sad.gif
4.
I am single. If I throw enough time and money at a race car I may stay that way rolleyes.gif
5.
I can do "most" of the work myself. What work I haven't been able to complete, I have farmed-out to Perry Kiehl.
6.
I am worried about the contact in the IT classes as well. About the only downside to the 914 2.0's move from ITA to ITB is the increased contact in the cheaper class.
7.
I definitely want to go historic racing (one of the advantages of racing a 914 over a Miata), but they only come around here every once in a blue moon. PCA and SCCA will probably be the bread and butter of the racing efforts.
8.
Do you know where I can buy a historic prepped 914 for cheap?
cool.gif

Later,
Don
don9146
QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Oct 11 2004, 08:11 PM)
Production definitely costs more than Improved Touring.
Going faster means things are stressed more highly, thereby requiring more frequent maintenance.
One thing about either class, you can prepare the car to meet the safety standards, without spending a lot to make the car competetive.  As time goes on and you gain experience you can upgrade the suspension and engine.

Production costs more, but any idea about how much more ompared to Improved Touring in terms of yearly upkeep for the engine, transmission, suspension, tires, etc... I am willing to spend the extra up-front money for a produstion racer, but don't want to spend a crap-load more in the long-haul for one.

Also, how hard would it be to later upgrade an IT car to an FP racer and be competitive?

Thanks,
Don
d914
not an expert on scca classes but here is a few $$$ to ponder:

- 6 rebuild $5,000 nothing broke, need parts to fix $10,000, life span 1-2 seasons.

- tires $800/set DE's 1-2 sets per year, racing 1 set/ race

- try to experiment with engine specs or somthing goes wrong 3-6 hr motors not uncomon.see point one.

- trailer, truck, hotels, entry fees.......

- build cost $20-30k.....

- uhoohs on the body, do it yourself cheap, have some one do it $2-3k

- the $500 piece or part or service becomes a no brainer.......
ChrisFoley
QUOTE(don9146 @ Oct 12 2004, 08:29 PM)
Production costs more, but any idea about how much more ompared to Improved Touring in terms of yearly upkeep for the engine, transmission, suspension, tires, etc... I am willing to spend the extra up-front money for a produstion racer, but don't want to spend a crap-load more in the long-haul for one.

Also, how hard would it be to later upgrade an IT car to an FP racer and be competitive?

Thanks,
Don

The initial cost of a Production 914 is easily double that of IT.
Really, it all depends on just how fast, ie. competetive, you want to be.
A real good Production chassis might cost more than $25k to prepare. An engine, depending on expected output, will be between $8-16K. Doing some of the work yourself can save a few thousand dollars. Tires can be used for 5 or 6 races, but they lose grip as they age.
A good Regional engine should last a full season between rebuilds. A National engine may need to come apart once or twice during the season.
Building a gearbox with the right gears for your engine and the tracks you race at may take a while. Otherwise the tranny should be reliable.

Upgrading an IT car can work out well, but not necessarily. It mostly depends on the original roll cage.
VegasRacer
QUOTE(don9146 @ Oct 12 2004, 05:27 PM)
8. Do you know where I can buy a historic prepped 914 for cheap?

Click the link on the bottom of this post to see the one I have for sale. I would like to get $9000 for the car. It is competitive in PCA class I. It also does well with the vintage groups. Sorry but I am not up to date on where it would be in SCCA.
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