I just rebuild my engine and I am happy to be back on the road. Everything is running well however I noticed that I am getting a small leak coming from where the tranny and engine join- I assume a rear main leak. It is not a huge deal except that my headers (kerry hunter) run right underneath that area. When the oil drips, it drips onto the header causing smoke and smell. I really dont want to remove my tranny. Any ideas?

The leak could be the tranny. Why not remove it? Shouldn't take very long and then you would know for sure..

It may be the tranny, I will look closer. Dr. Evil just rebuilt mine. If I remember correctly, the oil was green so I think it is the engine (i'm using brad penn oil). My tranny oil is brown. Removing it isn't too tough but I am fairly limited on time.

So lets just assume that it is the RMS. Any easy ideas on how to fix it?

Once you pull the transmission, PP, clutch disc and flywheel you will be looking right at it! It just takes a little work to get to it!

You said you just had a reseal. So is this a new rear main?

Just give it a few drives to see if it stops. Sometimes it does and sometimes you need to replace it.

I always use the smell test to determine if it is motor oil or transmission oil. They definitely smell different.

Some people want a quick and easy solution and use Engine Oil Stop Leak but I would NOT recommend it.

I did use a new seal. Maybe I will rig up some sort of oil deflector so that oil doesn't drip right on the header, wait a few weeks and see what happens. If it doesn't resovle then put in a new seal

You just did

Do you remember if you installed the O-ring? If it is missing, that would be your problem.

Just went through the same thing here. 700 miles on a new 2056 and had a small puddle where I last parked it.

Richard replaced the fairly new Elring rear seal with another Elring, but the second one definitely fit tighter around the flywheel yoke.

Just another data point. I recently changed my oil, and had a leak from that area for a few days. Must have overfilled a little, as it stopped leaking on its own. Hope you have similar luck!

Ken

A quote from Jake Raby on another thread:



I went with the VR seal and haven't had any issues since.

I saw someone lose oil pressure in a 2056 over the weekend at an Autocross.

It looked like the leak was coming from the rear main seal.

I would drop the tranny and check the shaft seal as well, but someone already said it.

You know it is oil or is it gear oil? They smell very different when burned.

John

I saw someone lose oil pressure in a 2056 over the weekend at an Autocross.

It looked like the leak was coming from the rear main seal.

I would drop the tranny and check the shaft seal as well, but someone already said it.

I like the deflector idea, but check the oil before you drive every time. Hot or cold.

The engine does not like being below 3 quarts for long.

If you must, get a new o ring, felt washer, flywheel crush washer and Elring rear main seal. I don't think anyone makes better than Elring. Since the tranny is out, think about changing all the tranny seals, or at least many of the rubber ones while the car is assless. I just did and all the gear oil leaks are GONE. No more stinky wet spots on the garage floor!

Almost broke my ass in 6 places on gear oil more than once.

John

I normally do use Victor Reinz seals and gaskets. Hoping it was just a fluke, but it's starting to sound like there might be some QC issues. I'll keep a close eye on the Elring and will change it out to a VR if the need arises.

I got under the car and it is definitely engine oil.

I found that I have three spots of oil on my engine. 1. slight seepage from oil pump 2. one of the cylinder 3 push rod tube seals on the engine side 3. the oil where the tranny and engine meet. Is it possible that the oil from the push rod tube seal leak could just be blowing up to where tranny and engine meet? Has anyone else seen that before?

Quit speculating and drop the tranny. It has to drop, no matter. You probably forgot the o-ring. The seal doesn't like to be hammered in. Also, the seal needs a non-grooved surface i.e. smooth. Finally, if the seal leaks and the surface is good there is one seal (and I forgot who I ordered it from-some VW bus supply) that is $49 and is a bit thicker, front to back, so it has a slightly larger sealing area.

No no no- you were supposed to say- yes that it the problem don't worry about the RMS.

Seriously though, I took my car off the road while I wait for a new master cylinder to arrive so I will just replace the rms now.

What o-ring are you talking about?

Never mind

I had the same problem with my 2056 rebuild. Rear seal started to leak the first week. Had a Elring seal and replaced it with another of the same brand. Started leaking within a week. Replaced it again with a Victor Reinz and all is well. I'm not saying that all the Elring seals are no good but several people on here have had the same problem.

I just took out my transmission. Now I am really confused. The area below the RMS was bone dry. The only oil on the RMS was from when I removed the flywheel. There is now trace of an RMS leak so where the F#%@ is the oil coming from? It is absolutely, without a doubt engine oil- the oil leak is green just like my engine oil- my transmission oil is brown.

See pictures-
Picture #1- base of transmission soaked in oil
Click to view attachment
Picture #2- oil shown. oil galleys dry. entire area between RMS and tranny mounting surface is bone dry.
Click to view attachment

I had the same issue at one time; you need a new RMS. this is what mine looked like before putting in a new seal

I think you are correct. I just went back outside and checked the back of the flywheel (the side that faces the engine). There are several oil marks on there.

Cheap insurance ... install a new flywheel O-ring "while you're in there"

I can fix it, but its gonna cost

be patient my friend

I am surprised that nobody pointed out my stupid mistake. I assume it is directly related to my oil leak. When assembling my engine, I forgot to include the case bolt that goes just under the RMS- Ooops

Man, you are not pretty enough to cover for being that dumb