This 1.7 core was a leaker...holy cannoli. Every part is covered in caked-on, baked-on oil and filth. Every nut and bolt will needs to be cleaned. Here are my questions:

• Is there a chemical that works equally well on steel and aluminum that won't damage either? Seems like the caustics (simple green, purple power) are effective but can damage the aluminum case. Mineral spirits, diesel fuel and kerosene seem to be safe, all purpose choices.
• What's the best method? I don't have a parts washer...I was planning on soaking the small parts in a plastic bin with whatever chemical is appropriate, and then scraping with a wire brush. Should I spend the $100 and get a parts washer?
• How to best clean the case? It won't fit in the HF parts washer even if I get it...should I buy a big bin and 5 gallons of mineral spirits and let it soak?
• How in the world do you clean out the oil cooler with all of its tiny nooks and crannies?

Thanks guys!
Rich

Purple power and your local self service car wash (at night)
Wear ratty clothes because with all the little nooks and crannies, and a pressure washer, it WILL get all over you.
Wear glasses also...

I also just use Kerosene....for a week, in a plastic tub for the case.
Then multiple brushes.

Oil cooler, and other parts...get one of the small ultrasonic cleaners for jewelry, they are cheap and work wonders.

I did put a case in purple power, in a huge plastic bin for a while...its really amazing stuff, but you need to keep track of time.

Autozone has a commercial cleaner for aluminum also, just ask for the commercial stuff in the back...but its another one to keep track of time so it wont eat up the bearing seats.

If you are like me, strip the case, pull the dowels for the bearings (dont lose those...Jake has them if you do) and bring the case to a local machine shop and have them tank it....it will remove alot, but not all of the crud.

Dont get to anal about it, you will only see the top of the motor when you are done.
Do get the seal surfaces right.

Also, I would plan to send it to a machine shop anyways...have them pull all the head bolts/studs and plane down the case to ensure the cylinders are all flush...these old cases do settle in the middle between the cylinders.

If you do that, just bring them the old dirty case, tell them what work you want done, and make sure they tank clean it...
Get it back in a week or so, all cleaned and ready to go.


rich

I have always found that if I 'pre-lube' everything with mass amounts of WD-40 first it helps breakup the gunk and "hydrate" all the grime. Then everything comes off easier when I start to the degrease process. It isn't like wd-40 causes more of a mess....I figure it already is trashed with oil and

Then I agree with the cover of night, a local car wash, wear old clothes (prepare to change), and glasses. You will get filthy!

Autozone also has the 2 gallon purple power. That stuff is amazing too.

Foley's machining my case, but I'd like to get the first layer of filth off before I give it to him...I just couldn't give it to him in its current state.

I think i'll go with the ultrasonic HF cleaner and some purple power for the small stuff, see how I make out.

My ultrasonic parts washer loves aluminum.
http://www.hamincgroup.com/blog/services/u...eaned-in-ep3523

I bought a cheap plastic tub that is big enough to hold the case, one half at a time, and the tins. Added water and a biodegradable degreaser and left it for a few days. Lifted the oil and dirt off without scrubbing.

I bought a cheap plastic tub that is big enough to hold the case, one half at a time, and the tins. Added water and a biodegradable degreaser and left it for a few days. Lifted the oil and dirt off without scrubbing.

I used Dawn "power disolver" to good results when I cleaned my engine while it was out. Comes in a blue spray bottle and comes out thick. Be careful not to get it on painted stuff. I only had the cold water from the garden hose and my case looked like new when finished. Several sizes of brushes helped.
Tom

Rich
What do you use for cleaner in this machine? I'm thinking to start with water and a few drops of dawn.

I use this cleaner (it's the bigger one and has heat):
http://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultr...aner-95563.html
bolts, nuts, oil pump, bearings, pistons, rods, you name it.
I use 25% purple power 75% water.
Works wonders.
The oil cooled doesn't fit so I just cleaned it in a bucket with a brush and soap. I baked it in the oven afterwards to get it dry (don't tell my wife).
The case was cleaned at the shop. You just can't compete with that.

Thanks Valy, this is exactly the info I was looking for!

...I'm off to harbor freight (AGAIN)

Make sure you get a set of these also:
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-tube-...-set-90631.html

Easy off!

dont use flammable liquids ....are you nuts ...one spark and BOOM...Every seen a burn victim ??its not pretty.....even worse then dropping a car on your face



degreaser and a steam cleaner work best for me!

I actually have a biohazard suit that I took on the last case/wheels/tranny cleaning escapade just in case. We didnt use it, but wished we HAD when we were done. A change of clothes and some towels is a good idea. For that I just took 3 cans of generic engine cleaner. Safety glasses a MUST.

I also use the zep industrial cleaner from HD for steel parts. It can clean paint completely from engine tins if used un-diluted.

It is NOT OK for Aluminium parts.

Stu

Take all the tin, engine bar and anything else you can think of to the local powder coating place....let them clean it and coat it for you.

I like the HF chemical cleaner too. Took off most of the crap.