There are several layers of black stuff flaking off in the fender wells. Whats the preffered way to takes this stuff off without ruining the paint ?

There's a thread on this with that beautiful "tan" Sahara biege car owned by smg914. I believe he used mineral spirits. Tried searching but didn't find it.

I know, I'm almost useless.

So how are the fender well liners working out??

Start with a heat gun. That'll soften he stuff up quick. You'll be able to peal a good bit of it off then. Then use the mineral spirits on the rest.

Thanks ! That sounds good.

The fender well liners are really nice. The front liners keep crud from collectiong around the turn signal buckets and cavity aft of the wheel, plus protect the underside of the fender. The front liners fit really good. After I remove the black stuff from the fender well, I'll attach the liners with Velcro Dots. Right now they are tight without any addition hold downs. The picture shows the rears and fronts: notice the ends are cut to fit the bottom of the chassis. This makes the install clean looking

I'm going to try painting them later on.

Where did you get those liners?

See: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=181319&hl=

Jim you won't need any velcro dots, the liners will stay put.

Even without the clips ? I hadn't tried using the clips; but I saw your picture of one clip riveted to the fender liner. Are all the clips attached the same way ?

Yes all the clips are installed the same way, riveted to the liner front and rear.

The heat gun and mineral spirits worked great ! Thanks for the tip.

Now it looks purty......

Ron

That looks really nice. How long did it take to get it that good?

Jim, how easy did the tar come off after heating it up? Much residue left? have a few areas I need to address on mine too. The mineral spirits took some time. Copper metalic, what a fantastic color!

I did the rear trailing arm area shown the pic in about 30 minutes. I used a metal putty knife and a heat gun. Heat and scrape an area, then more along the path of least resistance. Come back later to the stubborn areas. Most of the coating will fall away when heated and scraped, then wipe with mineral spitits. The flat areas are easiest; As you move into more curved areas, it takes more time. Probably the hardest will be around the turn signal buckets and uppermost portion of the well wells. After cleaning the wells, I'll be installing Mark's fender well liners.

Have a plastic scrapper or 2 for curved surfaces; but be carfull, the heat gun can melt the plastic scrapers if you heat the end directly.

I'm going to do the front wheel well today, will post a couple of pics later

The black stuff was hiding some suprises. Took an hour and and 1/2 to get the front done.

Gonna prime the surface and then respray the black stuff again. Any ideas besides black ? Can't do the car color, too $; but can spring for any Rustoleum color.

***The hubs are the billet ones Brad sold a few years ago. They are attached to SC vented rotors and the calipers are 911M.

Finished up today using the Rustoleum red rust desolver. Will probably spray the Bondo Rubberized stuff tomorrow.

Here's a couple shots of the front passenger wheel well. I painted the wheel-well liner black with plastic outdoor furniture paint. The wheel well is still in primer...

Got a question: I have these two products to choose from. Is one better than the other, or is there something even better ?

Also, the driver side wheel well is 10x harder to remove the black stuff, I only got a small amount off today. Seems like there was a softer coating on top of a harder coating. Had to stop....

Should I be using a wire wheel, flapper, or a stronger solvent. Been using mineral spirits and the heat gun. Tried MEK, did't help a bit