Any clearance issues to speak of?I noticed some guys running some deep aftermarket stuff..

The sump is way too deep, will hang quite a way below the engine mount bar.

An F body pan is the best fit.

Jerry

Standard pan works great. Deep sump is too low and a road race pan will interfere with the shifter. A circle track pan bumps out on the right, but may not work well in right turns..... How about a double filter and an oil cooler. Should add 3 to 4 quarts depending on your lines.

What about a Y body "bat" pan ?

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Standard pan..What model years would that encompass?Which pan is pictured above?Also check this out..Looks like the fbody,but looks deeper?
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f213/ls-engi...of-them-324366/

The pan in the first photo looks like a truck pan, it is also called a muscle car pan in the GM Performance parts catalog. If you are putting an LS engine in a 914 the truck pan will hang too low,about 3 inches ground clearance. The Corvette bat wing will only work with cable shift. A 901 shift rod will not clear any LS engine. Trust me an F body pan is the way to go.

Jerry

stock pan if you plan on running a shift rod. Alll other pans are too deep or too wide.

He is asking about LS pans

Ok,so the shift rod wont clear an LS series,regardless of what pan I use?Even the "f body" pan?

The 901 rod will not clear any LS engine. The LS pan is wider than a SBC pan.
I built a 914 with an LS1 engine and do know what fits.

Jerry

Ok then, what is the shift rod solution?

Build a rod that goes around the engine or use cable shift.

I built a new rod.

Jerry

Pics! So that truck pan is just too damn low huh? Im actually considering cutting mine down,and maybe even cutting clearance if possible for shift linkage. sounds like a challenge.. I would love to see a pic of ur reworked shift linkage !

If you plan on doing ANY track related events, go with a 05-06 Corvette LS2 pan. These are sought after with better baffles and does not interfere with the shift rod. Having said this the rod interference issue comes into play with the engine mount (Renegades) and needs to be notched in that area - simple but some fab work required to get it right.

Below in the pic you can see the LS2 pan is above the engine mount member (what you want) and the shift rod clearing everything. I don't have a picture of the rod itself.

Shift rod (what we did):
1) Cut rod over engine mount bar.
2) Take 2.5" per side off the bar in length from that center cut.
3) Weld another bar on top of the main shaft on the front piece (Cockpit sit).
4) Index & rotate the back side of the bar (and bend if necessary) to get the necessary movement (tack weld during NON DRIVING TESTING).
5) Once the correct position is found weld in - we basically had a notch with a bar welded on top of both end halves. Worked well and never gave me fits - even in DE events!



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