I am in the process of installing a set of ER bushings. The instructings say and show that some alignment washers need to be installed betweend the bushing and the mount. The problem is, there is no room at all to insert the washers. Here's a pic. What is wrong?

And I know that I have the bushing installed pointing toward the camera. I just wanted to show the interference that I am seeing. This is a very snug fit...

I hope that someone can shed some light on this...

thanks

-- brett


Click to view attachment

The washers must go somewhere else.

Those are always a very tight fit like that.

John

I will scan the page of the instructions. They plainly show where they should go. And I agree with you, I don't remember there being much space other times I removed the a-arms. Hum. It's all ready to go together and this has stopped me for the moment.

thanks for the input!

-- brett

Don't they also make "self aligning" front bushings?

I think the idea is that they can rotate in 3 dimensions so that your torsion bar is never pinched by the ends, which would lead to a sticky movement of your control arm.

Anyway, maybe the washers are for that part and not the stock part.

Just a wild ass thought...

John

Good Point. I thought I had ordered the self aligning ones. The hardware kit that came with it has the correct washers and hardware. Maybe the wrong parts?

-- brett

Ok. Found the problem. I have both of the ends. And the ones that are now jb-welded is the non-self aligning ones.

Ok. New question: How much advantage is there to the self aligning? Should I just go ahead an install the fixed ones?

-- brett

I'd try installing your a-arms and fully torquing down the mounting bolts. Remember to grease them.

If the a-arms move up and down freely then your car may not need the self alignment feature.

When I put on Mark's needle bearings I could move my a-arms up and down with my little finger...

John

The self aligning ones make everything so much easier. They are not exactly "self" aligning as you may need to tweak it a little but you won't need to do any filing or bending as you may need to do without. I have done both a few times and find the self aligning washers to save a few hours.

Thanks guys. I will try these first and if the arms swing freely, I am done.

-- brett

when i did mine the instructions were specific about the torquing sequence. i was told to button everything up, not to full tightness, put the wheels on, set it on the ground and shake the car. the self aligners do their thing. then you tighten up. note the position of all the grease fittings before finishing. yours look to be at 3 o'clock. i rotated mine down to be between the 4&5 position. it made it easier not having to fight support to lube them. don't forget to replace the gasket that slides over the end torsion bar and check the closing disc on the front.

k

ummm. No torsion bars...
l
:-O


thanks for the pointers..


-- brett

your car doesn't have torsion bars?

k

nope. Coilovers.

For those who are interested, this is what is going in the car...

Click to view attachment

Sweet. Are your spindles raised?

SWEET!

wow. what's the story behind those? too cool.

k

I got the whole kit from GPR. I had them put in a degree of negative camber as I was only getting around 1 degree with stock setup. Completely eliminates the torsion bars. Larger selection of spring rates and range of height.

we'll see how it works at the track.

Jonathon can chime in...

-- brett

Hey guys. the struts are a set of Bilsteins that Bret sent me. The spindles were raised and de-cambered (should that be cambered) to give more camber. An RSR coil over kit was installed and new inserts if I remember correctly. There is also a Rebel bump steer kit installed on the struts. Very nice set up with easy adjust-ability. Very similar to what i put on my 73 911. The A-arms were powder coated and had Elephant Poly Bronze bushings installed. Very cool stuff.

jonathan
hwgunner

Just to add to the info here, I installed the self aligning units on my IMSA car.

It was a very tight fit getting the domed washers into the cross member.

I had to open up one side slightly with a porta power and its spreader jaws to get them in there.

I think the cross members get tighter and tighter over the years as one PO after another cranks down on them when attaching them to the car. If you leave off any washers the bolt is big enough to pinch the cross member until it fits without the washers and then you have problems down the road.

The self aligning washers are a pair. One is domed one way and other is domed the other way. They do allow a good amount of misalignment to be compensated for.

John

Sorry for the hijack, but i heard a rumor that with this kit you have to strengthen the body at the top where the strut bolts up. Is this true or is this a straight bolt on with no mods?

iirc the instructions warn you NOT to torque everything down until the whole process is complete to avoid the pinching issue. i missed the at first on one side and had to open it up slightly with a pry bar. with the conical washers you leave them slightly loose and shake the front end to settle things in. if the washers haven't rotated to where they need to be you can build in a bind. when installing the poly/bronze you need to visualize where you need the zerk fitting to be. clocked just enough for access but not pointing down to the point where they are in the direct line of fire.

I know it's an old thread, but the OP did present a question that was not answered.

The "self aligning" "Kit" is supposed to arrive with new housings for the A-Arm rear bushing carrier. These have shorter ears and allow concave/convex alignment washers to be installed both on the front mount as well as the rear mounts bolt onto the chassis.

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

nice setup , wonder if some Ohlin's or JRZ's would slip in there too !

Should have had GPR add the shear reinforcement. A lot of leverage gets placed on the long bolt for the bump steer kit. Seen a few bolts snapped over the years without the reinforcement. It can also oval the hole on the steering arm over time.

Hello Jeff,

under what conditions cause this problem? I do an occasional autocross, and pull around 1.2G. I do not do track days, and drive very conservative on the street.

Just curious. Hard to go back and add this, at this time.

-- brett

I've seen a bunch of failures on street cars. Seems pot holes take a toll. A few on race cars. The issue that has been raised is without the shear reinforcement you have a straight shank bolt in a tapered hole to begin with. The leverage on the bolt is limited by the clamping strength of the sandwiched spacers which in my mind is a failure waiting to happen. Bad ju ju.

If the bolt swings suddenly to one side and then stops abruptly sweet dreams.

Double check the hardware. They do make tapered studs/bolts where it goes into the steering arm. Make sure yours is tapered. If it is your somewhat ok but I still do not feel comfortable without the shear reinforcement arm added. Looks like you have the ones Clint sells which are tapered. Same is the AFCO style. Remember the harder the bolt the less it bends before it breaks.

Jeff,

You are correct, this is the one from Clint and it is tapered. And I completely understand the problem with putting a straight bolt in a tapered hole. I would have been on the phone right away, if I had seen that!

-- brett