Unfortunately all my pictures are after mine was built, but i'll try and explain as well as I can.
First the materials, everything I used was bought at homedepot, and the cost was under $150.00.
MATERIALS
2- 4' X 8' X 3/4" cabinet grade plywood
11- 1" X 3" X 6' pine boards
1- 1" X 8" X 4' pine board
2- metal toilet flanges
3- grout bags (tile dept)
2- 4" X 16" foundation vents
1- pond filter
1- clear glass (size depends on how big your view window is)
2 - 36" metal transition strips
1- roll adhesive flat foam insulation
2- 48" X 12" wire shelves
1- 48" piano hinge
1- 36" flourecent light
Glue
Nails/screws
painters caulk
I've included a cut sheet for the major components of the cabinet, you can use these measurements and build a copy of my cabinet, or you can follow the basic design and change the measurements to make yours the size you like. These measurements are the maximum size using the materials list above. Changing dimensions could change your cut angles as well, I'll show you how to check this later on.
CUT SHEET
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Layout all your plywood cuts on the two sheets of plywood, you can get the front, back, and door pieces out of one sheet and the two sides out of the other, with enough for the bottom left over. If you use the measurements in the cut sheet, your side angle will be 24* , this is also the degree of all angled cuts.
If you change the side angle, here's how to determine your new angle.
Cut your two side pieces, lay a 1X3 under the front edge of the side piece, flush with the front edge, sticking up past the top. as shown:
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Mark a line on the pine board representing the top angle of the side piece.
Using a speed square you can check the angle. This would be the angle you would use for all your angled cuts. see below:
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When making the angled cuts make sure you cut the angle the right direction for the piece you're cutting, and you're measuring to the correct side of the angle.
(is your measurement to the short or long side of the angle) Measure and check it twice before you cut, mistakes make the cost go up. After all the plywood pieces are cut, cut the pieces for the front and back legs.
To assemble, stand up the sides, back, and front, as they would sit with no legs, the front and back should be between the two sides. Glue and finish nail each corner to attach front and back to sides. Next glue and finish nail the leg pieces together. Lay the cabinet on the back, install the back legs flush with the top of the back plywood, Glue and finish nail each leg to back and side plywood. Install top piece (1X7 3/8 X 48), make sure the angle cut is correct. see pic below:
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Next install the front legs, angle on top of front legs needs to line up with the angle on the top of the front piece. Stand up on legs. I used some left over 1x3 material to fill in between the front legs on the front piece, and up each side, to give the door a better stop/seal.
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Measure and install braces on the back and sides for the legs.
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For the bottom I cut two pieces of plywood, notched for the legs, and installed them at an angle and used 1x3 to fill in and create a clean out hole in the bottom.
After the bottom is installed caulk around the inside seams to seal the gaps.
( the angled bottom is not enough slope that the media will self collect, might be just as well to put in a one piece flat bottom and cut a clean out hole, you end up sweeping media anyway.) Here's what mine looks like.
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I used grout bags for the bottom, and the arm holes. I placed the grout bags through the holes, folded over 1/2" and stapled it in place to hold them, then screwed the toilet flanges on top to hold them better and smooth out the edges of the holes. Then I cut the small end just big enough for my arms to fit through with elbow length gloves on. I didn't want to attach gloves, they all limited my reach, since my cabinet is bigger, this way i can reach in as far as I need to.
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I attached a piece of 1X3 on each side for the wire shelves to rest on.
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For ventilation on the right side I installed a 4" X 16" foundation vent on each side, with a pond filter in between.
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Then drilled holes for the shop vac, compressor hose, and the blaster hose.
( I would drill these a couple inches higher than mine.)
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You can cut your viewing window whatever size you want, make sure you buy the glass first, then cut the opening at least 2" each way smaller than the glass dimensions. Use the flat foam insulation between the glass and playwood, and the glass and transition strip. ( I only had one transition strip so I used a metal strap on one side not as pretty but it works).
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Now you can attach the door and install the flourecent light. I made a notch behind the piano hinge for the cord. you could also use the flat foam where the door sits for a better seal there.
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I painted the inside white to help reflect the light, I painted the outside just because. All done and functional.
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Well there you go, hope it helps someone. If its beyond your capabilities, and you attempt it anyway, good luck, and don't blame me.
Jeff
