I have read about 2 pins, 4 pins used for mounting hood.
Are there any other ideas?
Does anyone remove tension/springs, and use existing hinges?

Retro

A timely subject. I'm thinkin' on this as part of my winter (yuck!) project. I'm all ears

Something I have also thought about doing to me car to help lighten it up. Hopefully some folks will reply adding some good advise.

I hope when the day crew gets home there will be some good ideas. My car was damaged recently, so insurance is buying bumper F&R, hood & trunk in Fiberglass.
I think I would like to use existing hinges, with no springs, and drill them for the look & weight.
I also don't want to have to open the hood for gas stops. So I am searching for something a bit techy looking. Not interested in Vintage look. Something similar to cafe Motorcyle?

You can use existing mountings and springs. I would suggest adjusting the tension out of the front springs, because of the lighter weight. Best source I've found is http://www.rennspd.com

Good suppliers of F/G bits would also be a help.

Never heard of it?

is that a fact or a guess on using the stock springs??

are the 'glass hoods* strong enough not to snap in half when trying to close the hood??

*and from which manufacture?, there are no "standards" so each brand can be different

Just a guess, there is a lot of room to adjust them. I imagine you could replace them with lighter springs pretty easily, maybe even bungee cords. For the rear I'd think the shock kit would work. I'm sure rennspd could tell you.

In my experience, front springs on even the lightest setting are still too much for an FG hood. I can't comment on the rear, as my old 914 didn't have rear trunk springs. For a street car, I'd use a hood prop attached to the stock hinge in both cases (rather like the prototype). I'd probably not do the front simply because of the extra hassle during fill-up. You're not saving that much weight, really. 10-15lbs, tops.

For a racer, I'd probably remove the stock hardware completely and go with four pins.

Most manufactureres offer normal fg parts and "race" parts which are laid up to be much lighter, not good for a street car. I have seen some of the fg race panels flex and bow at speed from aero load.

The nicer fg hoods and trunks I have seen have reinforcements built in and aluminum bosses to mount to the stock hinges.

In a racer, definitly, remove the all hardware and pin it. I think the pins are required, aren't they? I still like the idea of using bungee cords to replace the stock springs in the front for a street car, as you said, props are a pain.

Have f/g hood. Stock hinges are fine, but lightest spring setting still too much, so use a stick or better yet the gas struts from camp914. Easy install, work perfectly.

Gas Cap? EBay

I really like that gas cap Howard, great idea. Do you think bungee cords would work to replace front springs?

Thanks the idea of the cap, and that may ne the one.
I am getting all of my FG from Getty Design. Mark at Riverside was very felpfull. He is doing a little heavier lay up om hood & trunk, so I can get a better paint finish, less lumps.
There stuff is hand lay up, not chop gun. If you oreder a few pieces, you can get a break.

Retro

If you're buying from getty it's for a racer, correct? Pretty pricey for a street car.

I have the Getty hood. Really nice work, but don't think I would have paid the $500 when a good steel one can be found so much cheaper. But body shop had already ordered it, and insurance company was paying.....

Gas door cap is OK in CA, but not sure how leakproof it would be in rainy land. The cup and drain surrounding stock fill should do the job, but who knows.

A bungee could work, but gas ones are so much neater. Stock springs would not work with my Getty hood. Very visible bow when closed, so don't advise you try that.

I didn't pay near $500 for the hood. The price on the packages was very good, and Hartford is paying anyway.
Cheap HP is waht I am looking for [less weight]. It is a street car.
Getty hood with out springs on hinges would work wouldn't they?


Retro

There are some good ideas on these sites:

http://fly.hiwaay.net/~jonlowe/

and

http://hobbystage.net/porsche/9146gt/

I'm also trying to work this out. Have Renspeed hoods f/r and even though it has the hinge/latch holes, I'm thinking about going with pins up front. I am using the camp914 shocks and they work fine on the front hood so far.

-datapace

I think that gas cap looks good!
Is the inner diameter big enuf so you can twist off the stock cap through it?

I requested that information from E Bay. No reply yet.

Retro

There is about 12-15 pounds difference in a steel hood and a f/g hood.
But only about 3 pounds differace in a race f/g and a street f/g.

So if it is a true race only car, use race glass. If it is a DE/street car use street glass.

Street glass can use stock hardware and is easier to work with. Lifting my front hood on and off, even if it is a race piece is a PITA.

Paul

Paul,

Thats exactly what Mark, at Gettey said. He said you can sit 50lb weight in the center, with no damage or sag. Also the body/paint man will be able to get a straighter surface for paint, and only a few extra pounds.

God I love it when I'm right. It happen so rarely.

Paul

Getty hood with camp914 gas shocks. Also note cup and drain around gas fill. Your guess as to whether this is adequate to avoid rust problems in tank area.

And here's the gas cap on Moby. Has fuel cel, but plenty of room to get my fat hands in there.

And..

And BTW, I bought the part from local MOPAR dealer. $89 so make sure ebay one is the same size.

gas shocks will work as they don't put *any* load on the hood when closed ...

Andy