I appologize if this topic has been covered before, but I couldn't find anything specific. For some reason when I shift quickly into first or reverse, I get a slight "grind" However, when I shift slowly I don't. I just replaced the old transmission fluid, and don't have a clue what the problem is. Any thoughts? Thanks.

Brian

Adjust the clutch

adjust clutch and use "swepco" for the tranny fluid ...

if that doesn't help syncros or sliders might be toast,
Andy

First and reverse are different in one important respect: first has a syncro and reverse doesn't. Grinding into reverse is totally normal, because there's nothing to prevent it (syncro). Grinding into first is a worn syncro.

i've been getting the same problem....could it be worn out shift linkage bushings?

Grind in reverse in NOT NORMAL.

Unless the car is moving.

If the car grinds going into reverse and you are at a dead stop, then either the clutch is dragging, or the pilot bearing is hosed.

Changing your tranny fluid to 90W140 is just as effective as a SWEPCO change and about 1/8th the cost....

Changing your tranny fluid _now_ will prevent problems in the future. Fixing your clutch now will prevent the 1st gear grind from getting worse, but it is already probably close to done. Fixing 1st gear is pretty easy.

James

I actually just changed the old fluid out with Swepco 2 days ago and have barely driven it since. The clutch was replaced in 1987 by the po and never driven again.(He never put everything back together) If it is the first gear syncro, would putting it into gear quickly be any different than putting it in slowly? If it is the syncro, what is involved in fixing it? Thanks.

Brian

Clutch dragging is an adjustment issue. You aren't fully disengaging the clutch with the foot all the way to the floor. The synch bands still work, but you accellerate the wear. The stranded clutch cable, when it starts to fail, stretches. This then makes the clutch drag.

If you shift slowly, and use a higher weight gear oil, the transmission will synch. But, everytime you grind, you damage the slider and the dogteeth. 1st gear, the slider is particularly expensive. A Synch band runs around $60. The slider around $350-450 and the dogteeth about $110. Changing a band synchband sooner than later prevents damage to the more expensive parts.

SWEPCO is not a magic. Putting off repairs in the tranny will make them more expensive when you do repair it.

Good advice James, I sure wish you still lived local so I could have you help me do a trans for the V8 car.

You can! Houston is MUCH cheaper than Cali...and almost no-one has a 914, let alone a 914-V8!

What are _you_ doing up this early on a Sunday morning?

So.....if I need a 901 trans for Wyld Thang with a freeway gear....what can ya do for me? I have one core and a good running stocker.....

email me direct......

356@cox.net

I had the same problem, got a new clutch PP and flywheel for my v8 (problem was with the 4) and no more problems!! Heck even at 2k, it doesnt grind going into reverse....

now FINDING the gears is another thing... (stupid short throw shifter....)

John Walker's Workshop and OTTO have a line on gears.

HB can be pulled out of 4 speed 901's and would give you:

60mph @ 2627 RPM, 137 @ 6000 RPM

A Regular "H", which does not appear to have any usage in the regular 901 line, would produce:

60mph @ 2546 RPM, 141 @ 6000 RPM

This assumes you have standard wheel/tire heigth.

The reversed "H" is as long as you can go, as there are no gears installed in the 3rd gear (2nd gear in 4 speed trannys) shorter than H.

If you want taller than that, you might try larger diameter tires in the rear, as well.

Thanks James. I will have to look into clutch adustment. I have never messed with it. I'm a little nervous about anything having to do with the transmission. I am a novice to say the least. Oh well, learn as you go. Right? Thanks again. I'll let you know how it goes.

Brian

One more thing to add to this which makes me think it isn't the syncro. I have absolutley no problem downshifting to first with the car moving. If the syncro was bad, I wouldn't be able to do that right? Anyway. The clutch seems to be adjusted alright. From what I can tell it is fully disengaging. Are there any other causes you have experienced? Could worn bushings or something cause this problem? Thoughts? Thanks.

Brian

Also, going back to what redbeard said, could it be the clutch cable itself? How do I test to see if that's it?

Climb under and look at the cable at the plastic wheel. What is its condition? Is it covered in krusty grime? Clean everything (go on take it apart), regrease the wheels bearing and a light coat on the cable itself. If its frayed replace it. Its a pain up front but while you are there......check on the petal bushings. Lube them carefully so the clutch petal is smooth. Hook up the cable and adjust the clutch and all should be good. Unless the clutch tube is failing...so let us know how it goes.

I just did this on a friends car...hmmm, he only lets me work on it now but I only get paid in beer.

Geoff

Passenger side of the car...

There are 2 nuts at the end of the clutch cable. Ususlly they are 11mm. Loosen the outside one and then tighten the inside one. You will need to hold the cable to keep it from rotating. I think the cable crimp is 8mm. Use an 8mm or a vise grip. Give the nut about 2 full turns, then re-tighten the outside one against inside one.

Thanks for the quick response. I'll take a look at the plastic wheel doo-hickey, and clean it out. God, I hope I dont need to replace the clutch cable. I have spent way too much time down in the pedal cluster area. Master cylinder replace, accel cable replace, pedal cluster removal, rebuild, and now.... Of course NONE of those things were done at the same time. Someday, I'll learn to take care of stuff while I'm there. Right now I'm learning the hard way. Just to make absolute sure I understand; Redbeard's directions are for tightening the clutch adjust?

Brian

BTW Geoff, where are you at?

Alright... I took the plastic wheelie assembly apart and cleaned/re-greased it. It actually looked pretty clean already. Also inspected / greased the cable. Looks great. Ajusted the clutch so when pressed all the way down at pedal, the arm on tranny just touches the case. That being said, I pulled off the cover on the bottom of the tranny to where the shift linkage goes in. (sorry for my ignorance, but I have no Idea what that is called) Anyhow, there is an old broken bushing in there just hanging on the linkage. Could this be my problem? (My guess is yes) Anyway, has anyone ever replaced the bushing in there? Is it a pain in the ass or what? Thanks again.

Brian

Yes, we have all replaced that bushing many times. Nope not to hard to change

Yea but I have only done it while the engine and transaxle are separated.
Never thought about doing this job while engine and transaxle are in the car.

So, what goes into replacing that bushing? Does PP carry it? Thanks.

Brian

I had this problem too - just this weekend, I had the clutch cable adjusted ... now, driving my 30 year old car feels like a brand new (30 year old) car! You have no idea what a big change it is!

A minor adjustment made all the differance in the world!!

Kudos to Marty at Paul Miller Porsche, NJ. They're not really inclined to work on the older cars ... but he did me a favor while I asked him to torque down the nuts on the engine support. Seriously, the clutch, gearbox, and clutch pedal feel brand new!

Yes, tightening the clutch.

The symptoms you describe sound like a clutch issue. YES. You need to replace the bushing. Many times, the bushing breaks down and the car runs for a while with out the bushing in place. This enlages the hole and the new bushing will not stay in place. The usual "fix" is people put in a bunch of tie wraps to fill extra space. I prefer using JB weld to glue the bushing in place.

What's the name of that bushing? Where do you purchase them? Is there a metal one available so I won't have to do it twice? Thanks.

rear shift rod bushing

rear shift rod bushing

I have heard of a few guys having them made in bronze, but I don't know of a regular source.

Thanks again. Just ordered the parts.

Brian