I'm with Brett.....
A 48mm valve is only used on my engines for offroad use. This is because offroad engines need grunt and alot of flow at very low lifts to attain this.
That huge intake creates a hellacious charge that HAS TO GO SOMEWHERE and the cripped exhaust port of the Type IV head (especially a 1.7 head) make that a real challenge, even for a smaller valve.
These size valves are the most common mistake we see. That huge 48mm intake valve also creates huge concerns in piston/valve interferance as it protrudes down so far, and getting closer to the valve all the time.
what I"m saying has been provem on the flowbench, as well as on my dyno. The fact is that many of my 200+ HP engines feature a small 42 or 44mm intake valve and a 38mm exhaust, or 36mm. At the present we are working with a port shape for a 34mm valve to couple with a 40mm intake for high rev applications and the theory behind this is that the valve gets in the way of flow!
The huge 48mm intake valve is super heavy and hard to control. The gain he might have made in HP due to the valve (even if the ratios were perfect) would be soaked up by having to run 400 pounds of spring tension with duals just to control it! An uncontrolled valve is disaster waiting to happen!
The other area of concern that I have is the shrouding of that intake valve. That small 1.7 chamber isn't even unshrouded at all! Look how the cutter cut right into the beef around the chamber but no hand work was done to unshroud this. Basically that entire side of the valve will be useless at filling that chamber! (that might be a good thing in this particular situation)
Rimco does very good seat work, and general valve work. They don't take the time to unshroud, port and polish or to research to find the best combinations of valve sizes to attain particular ratios valuable to proper engine configuration. They are a production shop, not a custom engine or cylinder head shop.
The engine may run and operate well, but it won't be comparable to what it could be if it were effectively set up with the proper valves. He will notice a big boost in down low power and of course the engine will be stronger. Pay very careful attention to camshaft selection, as a split duration cam will be NECESSARY to get these heads to do anything! Also watch ignition timing and advance curves because that big charge likes to detonate at low revs.
Its all in the combo! Don't expect to get anything more than marginal power gains without perfecting that COMBINATION!
Yes the heads could have been made better-
-Correct valve/port sizing
-Correct I/E ratio
-Step cutting procedures to enhance cylinder sealing wile keeping proper quench
- Unshrouding and balancing chamber volumes
Get mad or pissed at me if you want-
I'm giving you part of the theory behind the reasons our 2270 makes more power, runs cooler and lasts longer than a huge 2600 without the right combo! Its all dyno and track proven and the customers can't believe the results! The smallest of changes make drastic changes to the engine!
Maybe I should start back on my book sometime soon......... But the performance engine video will come next!
BTW, ensure he ccs those chambers, the heads must have had one hell of a flycut to need the top fin decked that much!