I am looking a converting my transmission to a side shift. Here is what I think I need.
Side shift transmission
Side shift shift rod (rear) as in the picture.
Side shift engine mount bar.

Do I need anything else?
Will my shifter and forward rod assembly work with the side shift?

Tx

Your going to need the side shifter shifter and rod. There's also a special firewall bushing that you'll need.

I haven't done a conversion, but believe most everything is different, gear shift lever to the tranny between tail, and side shift cars. Now if every thing needs to be changed in a conversion or not, that I do not know.

I believe there is a conversion bushing needed at the firewall.

Others that have done it can confirm this or not.

Good luck !


dave

You will need:

Late engine mount bar ends
Late engine mount bar
Late engine mount brackets
Late engine mounts
Complete shift mechanism (shifter, front bar, rear bar)
Conversion bushing for firewall front bar thru hole
Sideshift transmission

That should be all.

Oh yeah, he is right, forgot about the engine mount and bar!

What is the history of the engine mounts/bars used?
There is the welded bar, with no pass thru for the shift rod, there is the cast bar with the afore pass thru, and there is the solid bar to motor mount with rubber mount on body, and the rubber bar to engine mount with solid mount at body.

Were both engine to bar mounting types used with the tail shift? or was the change in bar to engine mount style done at the same time the bar was changed from welded to cast (ie tail to side shift bar)?

I think they might have changed the engine to bar mounting method prior to the tranny change, is this true?

The solid bar to engine mount (with rubber on bar to body) was the first type. i believe Porsche changed to a rubber mount on the engine, after complaints of the bar getting hit at speed, and tearing up the engine case, which could total the engine. At least with the other mount method, the soft mounts are at the engine, so the rubber tears there. The solid mounts at the body are such that you will likely bend the bolt, or do some twisting at the body, which is pursumed to be cheaper to fix, and not as likely to leave you stranded as a busted engine case could.

i had an early car i purchased with a busted solid engine mount. fortunatly only danage was stripped threads and bent bolts. It was a pain to do, but i was able to Helicoil the stripped holes, what a mess however, but could have been worse. Wish the mount had been rubber, oh well car was only $900, and I put 60,000 miles on it until it got wrecked years later. Miss that car.


dave

get new solid outboard mounts
get new rubber inboard mounts
get a new ball cup bushing where the linkage enters the trans
get a new bushing for the rod support block
get new bushings that cradle the ball on the shift lever
get new items for the t.o bearing- throwout bearing clips(2), ball stud clip, ball stud cup
2 new cone screws for the linkage
might as well splurge and get new trans mounts
get new cv gaskets and he to muffler gaskets
consider a new clutch pivot wedge


kevin

Wow, and I thought this was simple. All I really need is a 1st and 2nd synco and thought I would invest in a side shift instead. Now I might just fix my tail shifter.

the swap really isn't that big of a deal. you don't HAVE to replace all that i mentioned. imho you will be happier with the results if you start fresh with relatively inexspensive items, that are a lot easier to put in when things are apart. or, you can replace stuff piece meal and pay shipping with each individual item.

kevin

After everything else that I have done to the car, to rebuild a tranny or do a simple sideshift swap isn't the big deal.
Right now my car is all original except the center consol.(that could be easily removed) I like it that way. I just thought if it was a matter of removing the old tranny and shift rod and put the newer one in, I could swap back for originality in a matter of and hour or so.
I just changed every bushing, rebuilt both rods and changed the ball cups on this linkage set-up this summer. Right now it shifts pretty crisp, I just need two syncros for 1st and 2nd.
Shift rebuild
If it means that I have to change all the components in the tunnel, the shifter, motor mounts and do all the same to the used linkages that I will be buying, I have to ask, " how much better will it really shift with a sideshift?" Will it be worth the $1000+ that I will need to invest?

I don't know what you paid or will pay for a side shifter but here's what you can expect:

Complete sideshift linkage - $125.00
Engine Bar - $15-$30
Outboard mounts - $10 - $20
Engine Mount Plates - $30
New engine mounts - $40
Conversion Bulkhead Bushing - $20
Tranny - $150 - ?

Doesn't look like a thou to me!~

those prices might look real in SoCal but up here in Timmins (yes it is snowing up here today) the best I can do is:
Used tranny- $500
gaskets and syncros (they all need them) $200
new bushings and ball cups - $50
+ all you said
Complete sideshift linkage - $125.00
Engine Bar - $15-$30
Outboard mounts - $20
Engine Mount Plates - $30
New engine mounts - $40
Conversion Bulkhead Bushing - $20

+ shipping to the great white north!
Doesn't take long to hit a $1000

Oh and I am still looking for a parts car to avoid all of this.

i've driven many 914's, side and tail shifters. Honestly the tail shift is just fine as long as the bushings on the shift rod are good (fire wall, in tunnel, and at tail) If the tail shifter set up is tuned up right with new bushings, they work great, My current car has tail shift, (with new bushings) and I have not been convinced to do the conversion, despite having most of the parts on hand, and despite experiencing the "wonders" of a side shift car.

I drive aggressive at times, yet do not miss shifts with the tail shifter.

So no it is not worth that kind of money, even half that money to do the conversion, just make sure your bushings are tight.
Save your money for an engine upgrade, interior, exterior spuce up, or gasoline.

good luck

dave