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Full Version: Fuel Pump/Relay Issue '73 914 2.0
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pbob42
No fuel to my '73 914 2.0. I Measure voltage at the pump and I get a 12v hit for about 1 sec when the key is turned and then it dissappears. Voltage is constant at pin 87 on my fuel relay.

Any thoughts?
SirAndy
QUOTE(pbob42 @ Jun 11 2012, 11:00 AM) *

No fuel to my '73 914 2.0. I Measure voltage at the pump and I get a 12v hit for about 1 sec when the key is turned and then it dissappears. Voltage is constant at pin 87 on my fuel relay.

Any thoughts?

Is it still fuel injection? If so, the FI brain will only run the fuel pump for about 3 seconds or so to build pressure.

You can always try to switch relays, they are all the same, including the ones used for the headlight motors.
Also make sure the relay fits snug in the socket. If not, you can carefully pry the prongs apart to give them a better fit.
If your relay socket is dirty, clean it first. Disconnect the battery before cleaning!

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pbob42
I don't hear the pump firing up. How can I test if there is pressure in the system? Can I hot wire the pump to test it? Any issues just running a juper from the battery? See if I can get it running like that? Pressure relief valve will handle the pressure right? It is Fuel Injected. Read elsewhere about needing to prime the pump.

THoughts?
sportlicherFahrer
The pump running for a couple seconds is pretty much priming the system. You can run your own wires to the pump, just be sure to get the wires in the right places. If you are getting 12V to the pump, and its not making any noise I'd say your pump may be the issue. I relocated mine to the front trunk with a late model pump after having some nasty vapor lock issues. Ran my own wire circuit with switch and fuse to eliminate any problems from the F.I. at the same time. Works like a charm.
pilothyer
If you get the short run of the pump when you turn the key on, your system is working properly. If it has been a long time since the engine was fired up, you can prime it by turning the key on and off several times you will eventually hear a little bubbling in the tank as the pump returns the fuel to the tank along with the air that was in the lines. If the fuel has been in the tank quite some time I would replace it with fresh.
pbob42
OK - pump is shot - getting quoted $190 for a new retro pump. Any thoughts?
sportlicherFahrer
Couple options. Stick with a stock pump, or get the stuff needed to do the retro(bracket, mounts, cover, new hoses, etc) Either way I would recommend posting a WTB add in the classifieds. Seems like there is almost always at least 1 fuel pump floating around in there somewhere and most of the guys are helpful to a fellow member in need. Hope that helps!
bigkensteele
QUOTE(pbob42 @ Jun 11 2012, 02:43 PM) *

OK - pump is shot - getting quoted $190 for a new retro pump. Any thoughts?

Pelican sells a Bosch alternate for $150.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/...og_description=

I just bought and installed one. The original uses spade connectors. The new one uses nuts. You will either need to modify your wiring harness or fabricate adapter wires to connect to the new pump. Otherwise, they are identical.

Turns out, I don't think that the pump was my actual problem. I think that I may have a kink in the 12mm hose that occasionally restricts flow to my pump. I sometimes hear a whirring sound from up front that can only be the pump straining, even after I installed the new one.

I would sell you my old one, but I am adding it to my spare kit.
hot_shoe914
Now is a good time to upgrade to a 2 port pump instead of the 3. Not hard to do, there are instructions on here someplace.


Shoe


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swl
Out in left field but easy to try. Give your pump a couble of sharp raps with a hammer. Brushes can get stuck. Won't be a long term fix but might get it going.
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