Brakes are starting to squeel and they are long overdue for replacement. I am looking to do a rotor/pad job and need some recomendations. PP has the kit but is this the best way to go? I see that they dont offer a cross drilled rotor for a 74-2.0, only for a six. Any thoughts on a way of pepping up the braking system with new components?

What are you running and do you like it? Mine is a commuter car with occasional canyon carving, no autocross.

BTW, I tried the search feature here and came up with so many pages of brake references, I became lazy and I had to go this way. Thanks for helping.

complete rebuilt is what you need IMO...and if the brakes are working like they are supposed to they are more then adequate to stop your car....dont waste your money on bling ...unless you want of course ....good luck ....just good stock brakes is all you need...JMO

Go HERE For all your brake needs. Talk to Eric. He is the best and will help you with any brake products you may have a need for.

Porterfield racing pads in front, that is all you need to make the stock rotors and calipers stop incredably fast. About $130 for the front set, pricey but darn good stopping. Make sure they are the racing ones, Part number AP2 R4. (this is for a 1972 car, check if yours is an early or late caliper, different pad thickness (early thin pads will fit on later "thick pad" calipers) Just make sure you get the same compound. Was turned on to these about 15 years agoby a 914 racer, pi tried them and then started to put them on every 914 I have, now and since, and all my 914 friends now have them. Beware, you can leave flat spots on your tires if you brake to hard with these pads!!!!

PS I also recommend the stainless braided hoses, and of course make sure the system is clean and flushed bi-annually at minimum.

Interesting part number. Love Porterfields but for the driving style he mentions I would recommond the AP31 (front) and AP30 (rear) in the R4-S compound. Racing pads ususlly need a heat cycle to get them to operate properly on the street. The R4-S (as in street) compound works better for street and autocross where the brakes will usually not see the temperatures needed to get the racing pads to operate properly.

AP31T is the pad for the later thicker pad calipers.

I agree... great pads and stock brakes in tip-top shape are all that is needed.

Call Eric, tell him how you want to drive and send him a check. You'll be a happy man.

40 years. pert'near, in the car biz tells me to NEVER put SS braided teflon brake lines on a street car. My liability insurance guy says the same thing. No perceptible improvement in braking, given all other factors are the same, and a HUGE downside in required maintenance, biennial replacement, and risk.

The Cap'n

I second that from Eric!

There are plenty of pads and rotors available. For street use they are all good. I like to buy the organic pads cause the rotors last longer this way.
Don't bother with the drilled rotors. It's just a cosmetic thing.
Stay with rubber hoses to save you from unseen leaks.
If you replace the front rotors, get a pair of front bearings as well. Much simpler to replace them with new than to reuse the old one and they are cheap.
If you need to rebuild the calipers, it all depends on your skills. The process is easy and well documented on this site. If you choose to work your checkbook rebuilding skills, please stay away from A1 Cardone (spelling?) or you'll end up with untrustable brakes. I had a long story with them since they replaced the original bolts with cheese.

Drilled rotors are more than cosmetic Venting/drilling

If you want a great local So Cal shop, call CH Topping in Long Beach

This is a street car. Drilled rotors are just for show on such car.