I am getting ready to swap out my wheels on my 74 914 2.0L and it will require me to jack up the
whole car and put it on 4 jack stands. I've only done one end at a time and was wondering if you guys
had any good tips on how to do this safely? I do have two good floor jacks and 4 good sturdy jack
stands. Is it better to do front first or back first or does it even matter? Any advice? Thanks!

I don't think it matters if you do the front or the back first.

Just don't do side to side. The angle of the car may allow the stands to tip or slide.

Just be careful and make sure you have the pin lock jack stands. I've done it front to back and back to front. They both work. Take it easy and be safe.

When I jack up the rear, I use one jack on each side at the rear jack points and jack it up evenly
so it doesn't lean to either side before placing my jack stands. I always leave my floor jacks under
the jack points as well as a back up in case one of the stands collapses.

Not sure if it really matters, but I jack the back first, then the front.
Be sure and block the wheels good while jacking the first end so it doesn't roll.
And don't use jackstands that don't have a pin to lock it, if their ratchet only, drill them put in a locking pin, or throw them away. My .02 on a dangerous subject.

Good luck, and what wheels, what's coming off...what's going on.
Pictures?

Jeff

DON'T DO IT!!!

It'll never come off the jackstands!!!!!!!!!!

I'm taking off the Dan Gurney wheels and replacing them with original Fuchs 2.0L alloys I just got.
Of course, I've got to remove the aftermarket wheel studs that won't work with the Fuchs wheels.
I've got a set of original lug bolts on the way.....
Thanks for the tips guys! I may post some pics but it won't be until next week sometime....

Yeah, I'm a bit afraid I won't be able to get the old studs out of the wheels; they are screwed in
aftermarket studs.....hopefully it won't be a long process. Wish me luck!!

This is my solution to a safe work environment. $64 to build all four and very solid. Glued and spiked together. I do not trust jack stands in light of all the horror stories out there. The only use of stands is to get the car up and down due to the steep angle. Its a step process but worth the extra time!

Click to view attachment

^^^Those things could catch fire....

can you stack 'em all up and play jenga?

sorry, o.t., couldn't resist... carry on...

i like jeff's tip about adding pins to rachet type stands. i can save an old pair!

Haha! I thought of Jenga when constructing. Only reason we can't play is their attached!
Just offering another idea of safer stands. The pins are a great addition to telescopic stands but I don't trust Chinese welds. If the weld breaks, the pin is useless.
To the OP, I wasn't intending to hijack your topic, only adding to it.

Tedman - do you have any plans/materials for those stands? I kind of like that idea....
Are they high enough to remove an engine with?

Sorry, no plans. Just did it out of my head but can offer a list of supplies and guidance. Its very simple to do.
These are not high enough to remove engine but you could build them higher. I believe you need somewhere around 37 inches to drop the motor.

Anyhow, mine were built with the following:
4- 8 ft 4x4
4 ft of 2x4
Wood glue
48- 6 inch spike nails (12 per stand)
$64 at Lowes

One board makes one stand. Cut each board to one foot sections and build in alternating layers as shown in picture. (last piece will be short from saw blade but works fine)
Between each layer use wood glue and nail each end with one spike nail in pre drilled hole. A 3 pound hammer works great for driving these spike nails.
When you complete the fourth layer lay a one foot section on 2x4 across the middle centerline of the stand and nail and glue. You can use a hockey puck to rest the donut on so the body seam doesn't get crushed.
Less than 2 hrs labor with the right tools.
Cheers!

that pic makes me think about how to rig up a bike rack for these things (nice bikes in the background)

Just an update - the car is safely up on 4 jack stands with no incidents! It was a really easy process and took only a little longer than raising just one end. I got 12 of the 16 wheel studs removed quickly but have 4 stuck ones....1 in the DS front and 3 in the DS rear. I plan to attack them with some heat this weekend
to see if I can get them loosened up and removed. Hopefully, this will all get accomplished in next week while I'm on vacation..... thanks for the tips everyone!

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...112231&st=0

Enjoy

For some on this Board it may be prudent to make sure the wood is termite proof. They can invade and destroy within 2 or 3 years.

Click to view attachment
This is another set that a member here built......looks to be quite strong and easy to make.

Good point. Maybe I should seal them with something.

Ok, wheel swap is complete and with the exception of 4 stuck wheel studs, it all went quickly and relatively easily. I was able to use Loctite threadlock and reattach the lug bolts and remove them that way on 3 of the studs. The 4th took a fair amount of torch and a helper with more muscle than I have. Other than that, not bad and the car was only on jackstands for 2 days!!
See attached before with the Dan Gurney wheels and the after with the Fuchs I replaced them with.

Looks good. now you need the center caps.

All I will add is do not scrimp on stands, you can't have too many under there. Never rely on your jack, cinder blocks, etc. I say this because a neighbor of mine died working under his mustang last week.. Here is a good article on jack stands.

http://revlimiter.net/blog/2010/07/mega-jack-stand-review-1/