After my adventures with the shift linkage bushings (in this thread: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=187814 ), the hand throttle in my -6 seemed to be disconnected. That is, after reassembly the position of the hand throttle seemed to have no effect on the idle.

Here's a view of the shifter/lever end of the hand throttle linkage from last weekend:

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I'm hoping that during final re-assembly I knocked something loose at the shifter/tunnel end, which I ought to be able to re-attach once I get in there in the morning. But if not, where the heck is the other end of that linkage -- under the gas tank? (I was about to check the PET when the computer I have it on decided to lock up as a special fuch-you-and-good-night just for me... A sign I should turn in and get some sleep, I think.)

Thanks in advance,
--Steve.

I'm pretty sure it goes to the gas pedal

the rod goes to a little pad on the side of the gas bell crank and the side of the pedal cluster. . but it goes through an alignment plate just inside the front of the tunnel. . there is a 10mm bolt on the top that holds the alignment plate on. . .,. I'll bet you pulled the throttle lever backwards in all the wiggling, and the end of the rod fell out of that plate . . . no big deal, you can see it with a mirror at the front access hole. . you'll have to take the shifter back out, put the throttle rod back in the hole and it should work. .

What he said....

Simply pull the whole assembly out. Lay it on top of the tunnel and line up the mounting holes. You will see how far the rod goes forward. REINSTALL rod in proper location and with a mirror or laying on your stomach you can get to the small support the rod goes through to help it line up to touch the throttle linkage. I found it easiest to undo the small mount at the pedal, insert rod, mount support, and finish with the throttle handle.

Easy and the gas tank is way too far forward!

What they said. Make sure you have the correct 914-6 bell crank with the tab coming off the side. The rod moves forward and simply pushes the throttle down buy pressing that tab. I've seen a number of ones replaced with the improper 914-4 bell crank that does not have that tab. Bellcranks crack and break often.

Being a factory-6 on the pedal end of the rod it has or had a plastic radius end cap. If this fell off or deteriorated, It will cause the rod to be shorter and less effective. You can fix this by making the rod longer by adjusting it.

I think this is not the cause .
The missing 5mm without the cap is neglecting.

It may not work properly until it is assembled because
you have too many spring forces counteract

Like gas pedal and carb springs

Well, it's both better and worse than it could be.

I still have the correct tab coming off the throttle pedal bell crank. And the rod from the hand throttle is actually still in the alignment bracket. However at full extension, the rod misses the tab from the throttle pedal bell crank. Weird, why is that happening?

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Uh oh, let's take a closer look at that alignment bracket...

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So once again, I am a victim of old bushings cracking and falling apart. I'll check the PET and see if the part's available. If not, maybe I'll pull the hand throttle, linkage and bracket and make some measurements... After all, I wanted an excuse to get one of those 3D printers...

Or I could just bodge something bigger onto the end of the rod. Hmm...

PET seems to indicate this is part number 914.424.219.00, "friction ring"
Pelican has OEM-91442421900 as a special order part for $34.50, ouch.

The rod cap appears to be 914.424.225.00, "sleeve" - which is NLA according to Pelican. Aase Bros seems to have a compatible part for $9.

FYI.

It's just a bushing with an ID and an OD. The ID doesn't have to be that precise, even. I'd be quite surprised if you couldn't find something locally that will work just fine.

--DD

I hear you Dave. Pulled the bracket out and grabbed the calipers. Looks like the bracket opening is 13mm. Overall bushing diameter is 16mm, width of bushing side is 6mm each side, and inner diameter (opening) should be 4mm or so. Maybe I'm a little off, will try to get rod diameter, won't surprise me if it's 5mm. I've got an assortment of small plumbing washers & grommets, if none fit in the bracket I'm sure one may work to replace the rod cap.

Edit: Rod diameter looked to be 5mm.

Well, I seem to have an acceptable kludge in place. I removed the alignment bracket and removed the bits of old bushing that were still clinging to it. I found that one of my rubber plumbing washers - now a "bushing" - would fit well enough for a temporary fix. Took a goodly bit of squeezing and pressing with pliers, so I'm hopeful it'll stay in place for a while, at least.

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So I put some white lithium grease on the "bushing" and bolted the bracket back in place, and hoped everything would line up without any cap on the rod. Here's the bracket reinstalled with the rod in place, retracted.

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Here's the rod extended just to the tab from the gas pedal bell crank.

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And finally here's the rod fully extended, pushing the tab from the gas pedal bell crank.

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Now for a drive to make sure I didn't break anything else!

Put a bleeder valve cap on it.

Good idea, thanks Eric.Valve stem cap would be too big. But something that will wear down instead of the tab - as opposed to the clear wear mark on the tab from however long the old rod cap was missing... The other washers I had would've needed a dab of silicone to keep them on, and I didn't have any handy just then.

Car drove fine. No popping out of fifth gear on the highway, and a gorgeous scarlet, orange and azure cloud painting in the sky. Not a bad way to end the day.

Note: If you need pieces of the hand throttle linkage, check out Mikey914's thread on a complete replacement assembly: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=174660