Been meaning to get this done and finally got around to it today. Wanted to make sure a 30 amp ATC style fuse would handle a 35 amp load without overheating the fuse holder and/or blowing.
Fuse was in-line with the 4 red wires from the battery. Ran 36.85 amps thru it for 15 minutes and removed to check the fuse. barely warm.
Following are the results I got.
engine running - 6.0 amps
add radio - +1.1 amps
add high beams - +10.6 amps
add fog lights - +9.4 amps
add emergency flashers + 5.25 amps
add wipers - + 4.5 amps
Total 36.85 amps
My fresh air blower is not working and my heater blower is not installed but seperate testing on the heater blower was about 5 amps. I would expect the fresh air blower is about the same. Those with high output stereos would see more than my simple radio.
I don't know how often one would have everything on at the same time, but some who purchased fuse block kits may be interested to know these results, especially those with the early cars that only have one large wire going to the front fuse panel area.
Tom

This is excellent general information. I used something similar in the conversion of the 3.2 engine (sixer) into my 914. I did add fans and additional wiring including new radio and speakers. I will use this information to recheck my wiring configurations.

Thanks.

Since those two are not wired to run together (and in fact it is illegal to do so in Europe) most stock wired 914s should run at least 10 amps less max ...

Andy,
I thought the headlights had to be on for the fogs to work? No? I can't check mine as I have the fog light flasher mod installed.
Difference between low and high beams for stock headlights are less than 1 amp.

Headlights, yes. High-beams, big no-no ...




Not on my car.

That's why I ordered one of them thar 6-fuse models

If I install any additional devices, like a high power stereo amp (with a 2-ohm cap), I'll run a larger gauge wire (#10 or even #8 AWG) through the tunnel to the battery via one of the spare fuses.



Andy, what wattage headlights are you running?

Andy,
On mine low beams are 9.3 amps, high beams are 10.6 amps. I do have stock headlights. Per Haynes they are 50 watt lows, 60 watt highs. So only 10 watts difference between highs and lows. I am guessing most have some higher power lamps installed.
I was using lowest likely for our cars, and I'm sure some have much more amperage draws.
Never knew that about the laws in Europe, but it does make sense. Even here I know driving with high beams on during fog conditions is detrimental to seeing where you are going. Low beams with or without fog lights is generally better.
Tom

I thought mine were stock, but apparently, they aren't. ...

My fog lights have been replaced with driving lights. My lights are wired so the driving lights and high beems can be on at the same time. I think I remember wiring it that way when I upgraded the fuse panel. (But then again, I can't remember what I had for lunch yesterday).
Cheers, Elliot

Electric motors go to full torque at start up. The starting amps are 3 times what you measure at RMS amperage.

I run a 200A fuse between my battery and disconnect. Works fine through the starter too. My electrical system is heavily modified. The 2 large wires that a 914 has from the battery to the dash are now fused and routed to the front trunk. I pulled the wires out of the loom and ran to inline fuses. I run a GM 1 wire alt with a #2awg cable to the starter. This completes the charging cycle.