I plan on painting the centers of my Fuchs wheels (a silver color) but want to leave the complete "outside rim" the clean but dull aluminum that comes from wet sanding. I'll be removing the anodizing with oven cleaner then wet sanding. Anyhow, I believe the bare aluminum would oxidize if left unprotected or unsealed. I don't want a glossy finish on that area so will just any matte/flat clear coat (rattle can) paint work? Or am I wrong about the oxidization and just be able to clean them occasionaly with Mother's bare metal cleaner? What would you do? TIA!

Doug C

clear coat
(rattle can)

Acox - do you not know what clear coat is? or are you saying that clear coat is the obvious solution? Your answer is kinda vague.

Doug C

clear coats are what flashers wear in the rain!

I'd probably try a matte clear...I've got some, but never used it yet.

Oh, I get it.. Acox was giving me hell for seperating the word into two - I'm not as quick as you guys sometimes. Anyway, about the wheels - I'd like to go without a clear if I could get away with just using a bare metal polisher/cleaner from time to time.. reduced chipping or flaking off and no shine.

Doug C

oven cleaner wont remove the anodizing! If you SAND it and clear coat it they will have some gloss but not the polished aluminum shine. I bought some clear for wheel it was more of a satin finish than a high gloss clear got it from auto zone it had an opague white top I think it is what you are looking for. If you sand them and use metal polish they will eventualy shine

Quick Acox, Sanman spelled Autozone as two words...get him! ha/ha, Just giving you hell. Sanman thanks for the recommendation, I think I need to visit a different Autozone because mine had no such thing. But that reminds me, the other day while in another FLAPS I saw Dupli-colors line of "high performance wheel paint" I disregarded it because there was no silver present BUT, maybe they were just out of stock and I do remember a clear but it didn't give a sheen grade..I assumed high gloss. I'll start a more serious search at various AZs. Thanks for the suggestion.

Doug C

huh? im lost. i suggested using a clear protective paint. (EDIT - yeah, i was kind of vague, sorry, was in a hurry)
im sorry to have offended you... i meant no pun nor meanness. i only suggested a clear aerosol product, i used a automotive paint product on my 911 steelie chrome wheel to keep it from pitting,

Oven cleaner won't remove the anodizing. hell, even sanding will have a tough time since you are rubbing one oxide on another. Is there a problem with getting the wheels alodined before you paint them?

Aaron (Acox) - just to clear up, looks like your original post has been edited to say (rattle can) but it originally said "clear coat ?" which is why I was confused by what you ment. My reply to you explains what I'm saying. I thought you were just busting on me. No prob!

Doug C

Anodizing is what is supposed to protect the aluminum. I can't imagine removing it myself. I would think that leaving it unprotected is asking for problems.

It sure worked for me...you have to find the old toxic Easy Off, in the yellow can (the blue can won't do anything). Spray it on the section you want to remove the adonizing from and let it sit for 30 min or so. Then use a scotchbrite and scrub the adonizing away. It does work, that's what i did to polish the lips of my fuchs. After this step I wet sanded to 1500. Once done I shined it up with speedy metal polish and water beads up on it, has a wax like substance in it. Works well for me, I polish them about once a year and they still look good.

Be careful about the clearcoat you choose. Some turn yellow after a year or so.
I media blasted and polished my wheels and did not put any coat on them afterwards. No oxidations at all. A little polishing every now and then and they sparkle. It's now been a year and a half. I happy with the results.

If you don't use easy off there may be someone around that does wheels in your area. There is a product that is anaodized paint remover and is handled by seasoned pros only. If you get any on you it will burn severely. it is the best way to remove any anodizing.

Plain old lye (caustic soda) will strip anodizing and etch the surface. Do not get it on your skin, and DEFINITELY DO NOT GET IT IN YOUR EYES! It will damage your cornea faster than you can blink. Also, very slowly add it to the water, and stir.. it generates heat as it dissolves.

As for protection, I've heard good things about clear powdercoating but have yet to try it myself.

If you paint it and then sand the paint to a dull finish you'll protect the metal and get the look you want. That's how a lot of cars get the "primer" look. It's not really primer. It's paint that's been sanded. Actually, most paint jobs look like that at some point in the process, before it's all buffed out.

Anodizing is what is supposed to protect the aluminum.

Yeah, but I don't want any shine at all - so it has to be removed.
Doug C

Remember 'Fight Club' for sure don't get it on skin or in eyes. BTW a form of Lye is what's in the Yellow Easy Off...be sure to wear gloves and goggles if you have them!
I also agree that if you can have them done by someone that's the best route, I did it once, never again!

Hadn't thought of that, but you're right I could use a clear coat like Dupli-color's "High Performance Wheel Paint" and if it's glossy just sand it to a dull finish... perfect, that's what I'll do.

Doug C