Everyone has put up with my questions to this point, and I appreciate it. As some of you know I had JUST got all my carb problems sorted out when my ignition/electrical gremlins showed up to leave me stranded. Long story short, I thought I simply had a bad voltage regulator, which I did, and now the alt will charge. The problem is now it doesn't start.

Forgive me because electronics is the absolute bane of my existence. I I read through the multitude of hot start threads and think I have a pretty good grasp on it. However I don't think I've got the same issue. Simply put, turn the switch, no start. Turn the switch to run and jump the solenoid with a screwdriver and it starts right up. Does this rule out the solenoid then? If it does, can I move on to replacing the (surely) original ignition switch?

So it doesn't crank with the switch, but does when solenoid is jumped? Clean all your grounds. and starter connections. Get the one from the tranni to the bottom of the trunk also. Under the relay board too. Check the 14 pin connector for corrosion. It could be a bad switch. The new chinese stuff is junk.

Hey Curt,
Yep, won't crank with the switch, but will when jumped at the solenoid. I cleaned all the connections, including ground and have the same result. I'll check the 14 pin connector as well but I remember it being pretty clean when I last looked at it.

7 come 11 the ignition switch is cracked and won't make contact with the starter pins inside.

Thats what it sure seems like. Sounds reasonable since I have no reason to believe it has ever been changed before. I doubt this has anything to do with it, but since I got the car I've been able to remove the keys with the ignition on - but thats probably the lock cylinder, right?

Yep cylinder, separate from the electrical portion......

Do you get 12v at the yellow wire that goes to the solenoid, when you turn the switch to the start position?

Okay, I see where this is going. Nope, tested yellow with switch on and only got a voltage change of .1 to .2 V. Switch?

You tested for voltage at the crank position not the accessories on position right?

could be the switch or the cam in the key mechanism is twisted backward and not turning the switch far enough anymore.
here's my fix
www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=165861

George I was going to offer up a Starter ( must have 6 or 7) but that doesn't sound like the problem. But if you want one for a spare come by & get it

T.C.

Yep that's exactly the problem.

Top tip ---- I fixed mine with a small swiss file. If you file the sides off the retaining tabs on the ignition switch electrical part (just a mm or so) you can then turn this within the housing to enable the key to turn it enough. Once back in the cylinder, turn it as much as you can and do up the little grub screw, which still goes through the hole on the ignition switch. You'll see that it has turned about 5 degrees from where it was before - you also may see a gap between the switch itself and the metal cylinder housing... put some folded paper in here to fill the gap (and prevent the switch twisting back and you should be set.)

This fault was driving me mad until I read the linked thread above and realised what was happening.

Yes, I tested for voltage at cranking position. Rob and Bob, I think you are on to something here. I have very similar symptoms - the switch still springs back like it would if starting, but I think that cam is just worn. I already have to pull the column apart to replace the wiper and blinker assemblies, so I think I'll just do it all at once.

T.C. - I might take you up on that offer. Wouldn't be a bad thing to have a spare here.

Thanks as always everyone. Will let you know what the deal is once I find out where I'm going to get a wiper and blinker assembly first.