my trunk lid wont open. i locked it last night before i went to bed and this morning i went to go unlock it but now when i push the button the trunk lid wont release. any info on how to get it open ?

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the next step is to open the engine cover and find the 4 bolts securing the trunk lid to the hinges.... you're going to have to remove the nearest bolts and loosen the farthest, most of the way out, then you can raise up the edge of the lid a couple of inches, use a 2x4 block to support it. then go to harbor freight and buy enough sets of 1/2" socket extensions to reach the far edge of the lid and tape them together, since you now need to remove the latching plate from the inside of the trunk... be sure to tape them together or you'll be going back to HF to get a magnet on a stick to retrieve them... get a flashlight and you can see the bolt heads which are 10mm. with a bit of luck you'll be able to get the bolts out... once it's released, be sure to bolt the hinges back on before opening... good luck...

More than likely the pawl is broken off the back of the lock cylinder.

so basically the only way to get the trunk lid open it to remove it from inside the enginge compartment?

when unlocked if i pull on the lid and puch down it makes the little click noise like its closing. i just cant seem to get it to come up.

should i try to pry it open?

Prying will only bend the hood ...

I'll try to post some images later of what I spoke of.

so after messing with this for a while i found a little metal pin on the ground which i believe to be the lock cam inside of the lock button. how does this get out of the lock and onto the ground? i have read that this was originally mad of "pot metal" and break often making the button useless. if this is the case is there an easier way to open the trunk than going in from the engine compartment? or is that the only way. it sounds like a pain in the ass. lol

Take drill slightly smaller that the key opening. Insert into opening and apply lite pressure and the slowest speed possible. The drill will lock into the screw that holds the cam in place and back it out. At that point you'll have nothing restricting the latch.

It does work. The trick is a small drill bit, slight pressure and slow speed.

I've done it several times.

James Smith

Not really, done it a few times ...

Pop out both of the plastic cups, add a bunch of extensions to a ratchet, use a 10mm socket, go through one of the two holes and aim for the two nuts on the lock assembly, unbolt both nuts, open trunk.

Get a buddy to shine a flashlight through the other hole so you can see where you are going.

Takes 5 minutes max.

The pin is part of what is screwed to the lock cylinder ... call it a cam if you wish. It's what breaks ... the pin is what is pushing on the release mechanism.

ok so your saying the whole part with the key hole will back out? or will this just move the part that holds the pin out of Place so that it is not locked ?

is this a notice for us all to check the condition of our trunk lock and renew it if necessary?

will this method work without the pin that broke off? im just not sure what you mean by it will lock into the screw and back out . do i just keep drilling and it will back out on its own?

lol i think it would be a good idea, especially if you have something you need in there, luckily i dont. i just think that the pins from the factory werent expected to last 40 years.

i have really nice right and left turn signal bucket/lenses for sale if you want to take a BFH to one of yours!


kidding... of course.

thanks for suffering so i can check mine tomorrow.

No need to drill anything. See my post above.

Your trunk could already be open. 5 minutes max., 10 with a beer break ...

lol that would be fun but im poor .

i was going to try to go in through the plastic cup holes but unfortuantly i have a bunch of clothes in the trunk but i will try to make my way through them.

I will help you, its easier with two people. Let me know when the part arrives and we will get you fixed right up!

In the mean time, don't break anything, or for god sakes don't drill anything///

The screw that holds the cam on backs out, and the cam with the broken pin falls off and allows you to push the button in and open the trunk.

I've performed the procedure several times. If you have an old cylinder, uncrew the screw and slide a paper clip thru. You'll see that the screw can be accessed from the outside without touching the waffers.

James Smith

This is the assembly with two 10 mm fasteners you need to get to:


This is looking into the lock and you can see the pawl that holds the piston. It retracts releasing the piston so the trunk will open:


This is the pin that pushes the plate that retracts the pawl so the trunk will open:


The pin assembly is screwed to the back of the lock cylinder. If it breaks off (which is common), you can't push the plate to retract the pawl.

That's it ... do what you wish to get the trunk open.